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Old 11-29-2012, 11:20 PM   #1
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New to me 2007 19H, what should I do?

Just purchased a 2007 Jay Feather EXP 19H and want to do a thorough once over to make sure everything is caught up. The previous owner seems to have taken great care of it, but I want to be sure I can as well for years to come. What should I replace, check, etc? Coming from a tent trailer so most of this is new to me. For roof maintenance will the roof support me? (around 175#). Thanks guys!
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:25 PM   #2
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Congratulations on your new camper. Yes the roof will support your weight. Check the caulking on the roof. If it is has cracked pulled up, etc. don't remove the old caulk, add more to it. I would sanitize the water system, clean the black and grey water tanks, and just look for any problems. Enjoy the new camper.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:54 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by tlhdoc View Post
Congratulations on your new camper. Yes the roof will support your weight. Check the caulking on the roof. If it is has cracked pulled up, etc. don't remove the old caulk, add more to it. I would sanitize the water system, clean the black and grey water tanks, and just look for any problems. Enjoy the new camper.
Thanks for the reply!

The previous owner used it often so the fresh water should be good. It wouldn't hurt to do it though. I did notice the black and grey water sensors are not working, but after searching here that is pretty normal. What is the best way to clean them? If I do any caulking anywhere else do I also not remove the old caulk or is that just the roof? What is the best caulk to use for this application?
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:26 AM   #4
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In your owners manual, it should give you a good list of things to check and all places that use caulking.
If you don't have a manual, you can email Jayco with your VIN and they will email you one in about 20 minutes.
service@yaco.com

I would ad:

Get under and inspect the frame. Coat any rust with rust stopper and then final coat with truck bed liner
Check gease in wheel bearings, address any rust on hubs etc.
Check A/C mount bolts from the inside. Remove 4 screws holding cover to get to them. A lot of people find these loose.
Check the tongue area for any rust, treat and paint. Looks all nice and shiney again :-)
If you add caulking over old, use a paint brush and work the new into the cracks etc. Lot's of Youtube Video's on roof maintenace, electric brakes and wheel bearings.
I took all wheels off (steel) applied rust stop to back sides, and primered for protection. They develop rust.
I addressed outside of wheels as well, primered, painted white they look like new.
Check your tires. Tires are usually replaced on age versus tread wear. 5-7 years. There's a 4 digit code molded into the tire for month/year I believe. After DOT symbol.
Rust stop, paint and grease the screws for any stabalizers.
Check which roof material you have. Probably rubber, so you'll need to use a butyl caulk.
In your manual, you'll also find a list of about 50 common spare parts and their part numbers, where to purchase. Print it off and keep it handy.

Best regards,
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:11 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by brockeverly View Post
Thanks for the reply!

The previous owner used it often so the fresh water should be good. It wouldn't hurt to do it though. I did notice the black and grey water sensors are not working, but after searching here that is pretty normal. What is the best way to clean them? If I do any caulking anywhere else do I also not remove the old caulk or is that just the roof? What is the best caulk to use for this application?

You should sanatize the water system at the beginning of every camping season and any time it hasn't been used for a while. I would add some water and a bag of ice to the black tank then tow the trailer. You can also get a sprayer that you can install in the side of the tank, or on a stick to put down the toilet. I use Calgon Water Softner (in the laundry isle) in both tanks. It helps prevent stuff from sticking to the sides of the tank. The grey tank you cant access directly so I would use hot soapy water with Calgon and let it soak a few days. Drain it and they do it again. They also sell chemicals to help clear the contacts.

For your rubber roof ONLY use Dico self leveling lap sealant. It will spread and level itself out. The rubber is a very thin membrane. You may tear it if you try to remove the old caulk. Other places you can remove old caulk.
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2010 Jayco 17Z Ex-Port
2004 Ford Explorer V8 with the tow package
2010 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 132 - Nights Camping in My Z 102
2011 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 107
2012 Camping Stats
Nights camping 133 - Nights camping in my Z 128
2013 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 66 Nights
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:42 AM   #6
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I would also recomend a 50' x 4" roll of Eternalbond tape.
It's a Butyl tape that can be used to repair a hole in the roofing from a branch or seal any seams that may come loose or appear to be on the verge.
http://www.eternabond.com/

Grainger sells it for about $100, Amazon about $65
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:50 AM   #7
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2x on the eternabond tape.. many people have been using that to replace the calking with... and once done it lasts forever.. I bought 2 rolls last month and when I get motivated enough I will get up on the roof and git-er-done..
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:47 PM   #8
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If I do every seam with eternabond can I put it right over the existing caulking? It would get pricey but my time is worth more to me than my money. I want the trailer to be perfect for years to come so its a small cost to avoid headaches later.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:40 PM   #9
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Yes,
You can go directly over the exisiting caulking. You have to make sure you press every little wrinkle that may occur.

There is several good videos on RV Roof repair and Eternabond use.

Personally, I would try to take up the old caulking. The type of caulking used on RV's seems to come off pretty cleanly. Never use silicone, because nothing else will stick to it and it's very agressive to get off, usually resulting in tears and holes.

Here's a couple video's. I just used the seam tape and cleaned before application with Acetone.






Best regards,
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:34 PM   #10
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If you are close to the garage - pick up an 25-foot 10 or 12 gauge quality extension cord and a RV30A-15A long 18-inch long adapter (WALMART). This will allow you to plug your trailer 30A shore power cord into your garage 120VAC 15A receptacle and then you can go fire up everything inside your trailer off of the shore power connection. You can even camp over night in it as often as you like. This will let you check out everything while you are at home. This also gives you a quick idea on things you might need before you go camping down the road.

This will allow you to charge up your on-board battery. Everything in your trailer will work from the 120VAC garage receptacle but with a couple of the high wattage items like the Air Conditioner and maybe the Microwave you won't be able to run them at the same time or it will trip your house circuit breaker.

Alot of us do this so this is nothing to worry about. You do need to use the HD extension cord and only the 10GAUGE or 12Gauge (10-3 or 12-3)/ DO NOT USE the cheap 14-gauge red color extension cords from WALMART. If your standard trailer cord will reach the 120VAC garage receptacle without the extension cord just us eit directly using the 18-inch long RV30A to 15A adapter. Also be sure to use the 18-inch long "dogbone" type adapter. The small round black ones may get hot on you after using just a short time.

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Old 11-30-2012, 10:35 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info. I have a 30 amp plug off my garage already from when I had my tent trailer. I can run everything with ease
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:12 AM   #12
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I have a roll of Eternabond in my cart on Amazon and am going to tackle the roof first. Do I also need to order some of the Dicor self leveling sealant as well, or do I just put the Eternabond right over what is already there? Should one roll handle the roof? If I do the Dicor I have to wait a couple weeks before the Eternabond so if I do not need it I do not want to prolong it. Any tricks to walking on the roof, or just go about it like the roof of a house?
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:02 AM   #13
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Never a bad idea to have a tube of Dicor around, but the Eternabond should be all you need to get started.
I ordered some parts from Amazon recently and they sent items seperately as available.
You can also pick up some Dicor at your local camper store or Grainger if needed.

Just walk on your roof like your house. It should have trusses and plywood or luan under the roofing material.

Check all your vent and vent covers while up there.

2 screws and your refrigerator vent cover will come off and you can check screen to make sure it's clean. Mine is an elongated cover on the driver side.

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Old 12-01-2012, 08:45 AM   #14
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Might be a good idea to use a 2x2 pce of luan to kneel on the roof just to spread the weight. Larry ps check out the mods section--lots of good ideas for the 19h
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:11 AM   #15
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If you are on the roof, my recommendation is to put the stabilizers down and wrap your extension ladder with foam (pool noodle, black pipe insulation, or even old rags), remove all items from your pockets and wear soft soled shoes like tennis shoes that have fairly clean soles. That roof membrane is VERY thin and I tore a small hole in the edge of the roof with the ladder.

2x on all the other advise
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:04 AM   #16
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Just ordered a 4"x50' roll of Eternabond for $50 shipped on eBay, not too shabby. Is this going to be plenty for the roof? And can I split in in half and use it on other seams as well or do I need to get another roll of a smaller size?
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:25 AM   #17
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You'll be able to cover 50 linear feet :-)

As far as cutting in in 2" strips, thats not a problem if you get enough coverage.

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Old 12-05-2012, 11:05 PM   #18
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Dicor came in today. Is that only for the roof or can it also be used on the wall seams? It would seem to me that if it is self leveling that means roof only but want to be sure. Also, how will I know which seams to peal the caulk out of and replace?
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:52 AM   #19
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Inspect the cauling for cracking or separation from the surface it is ahered to.
These are signs it could be letting go and could start letting water in.
Sidewalls and windows is probably a different caulking.
May search "sealing windows on RV" on Youtube
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:32 PM   #20
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Went through one tube of Dicor on the roof. I basically redid the entire thing. I found out after that I wasn't supposed to touch it which is awesome because I was touching it the whole time. Nothing like chemicals entering through your skin. I noticed the roof is quite sloppy. After some research I found that it is common on the Jayco trailers. Next up is Eternabond over all siliconed areas (front seam, sky lights, solar panel, HDTV, fantastic fan). I need to order another tube of Dicor and do the full length on each side and back of the roof still (doesn't need it, but its preventative maintenance, don't want to deal with it later)
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