Power cord conversion

[Gunnar]

We have a 06 301RLS. I have gotten tired of pulling out and then pushing back in the power cord. I ordered one of these and it is sitting at the dealer now. I am going to install next week. Has anyone done this conversion before.

http://www.marinco.com/product/30-am...conversion-kit

[Grumpytrkr]

Yes, I put one of these on my other trailer. My wife has Multiple Sclerosis, and when she tried to help and pull the cord out, she would loose her balance and fall. They are not hard to put on at all. About the only thing I can add to the pack that you bought is some type of weather proofing, or anything that you might want to use to make sure everything is sealed up tight. The holes will not line up, or they didn't on my Fleetwood unit that I put this on.

Very easy, follow the directions, cut the wires as noted in the instructions, and it will take about an hour or so to do.

Regrads,

[Gunnar]

Thank you for they info and reply.

[Seann45]

If you put a new hole through the wall call Jayco first to figure out where the wall studs are.. I kept the old hole "available" for my High-def TV and satellite internet cables.

[Gunnar]

Thanks for the reply. I'm sure it fits in the existing hole. If it requires another hole it can stay in the box. No way I drill a big hole.

[Grumpytrkr]

Originally Posted by Gunnar

Thanks for the reply. I'm sure it fits in the existing hole. If it requires another hole it can stay in the box. No way I drill a big hole.

No, you don't have to drill another big hole. I think one of the screw holes didn't line up.

Good Luck,

[RedHorse1]

Nice. There are some old posts detailing the install of what I remember to be a marine connector but I see that this one looks to be designed to replace our existing flap. I see where Grumpy had to drill a new screw hole. I'll be interested to see how yours lines up with the existing screw holes.
There is an older post where the existing hole was replaced by a small storage hatch and the new plug relocated to an another exterior wall.

I took a quick read of the install instructions and note they don't say anything about applying sealer. There is another older post by an experienced boater that details applying sealer/bedding to external fixtures. An excellent post as well.

[Gunnar]

Well I got the job done. I swear they build the trailer around the junction box.

It was a pretty simple install. The only issue is the ring that screws to the trailer was about an inch smaller than the one I was taking off. The original holes for the screws were right on the edge of the new ring, something I didn't really like. Plus once I got most of the goop removed there were a couple spots where little bits of decal came off.

I spent the better part of a day trying to find something I could use to make a larger ring. The original power cord mount was about 5" in diameter the one supplied in the kit was 4". I didn't find anything so was just going to install as best as I could. Walking around the auto wreckers yesterday morning (I work weekends and put in a couple days a week helping the fellow out when not camping) I came across some small sheets of hard plastic. I made myself a nice 5" circle put the hole in the middle, drilled some screw holes. It looks pretty good if you ask me.

[Grumpytrkr]

I don't think Jayco could have done a better job. Looks good to me.

[Gunnar]

Thanks. I'm kind of pleased with the way it turned out.

[RoyBraddy]

I need to do the same thing on my OFF-ROAD POPUP.

My cord hanging out to ground make a 6-lane highway for crawly things right up into the cable compartment. I also have a 1500WATT PSW Inverter installed in my POPUP on the tongue end of the trailer inside a cabinet and want to run a heavy cable from it to a similar "20AMP" MARINCO adapter with lid type connector that is connected only to the 1500WATT Inverter. Then I can use a short 30AMP to 20AMP "dogbone" adapter between the two to connect my 30AMP POPUP shore cable to my Inverter. This would be a poor-mans transfer switch... I would have to flip some 120VAC breakers in the Power Distribution Center but my main goal was to power up the POPUP 120VAC receptacles scattered around the trailer both inside and outside. I already have a second 600WATT PSW Inverter with all of my Home Entertainment items connected to it so we can watch HDTV from the OTA antenna when camping off the power grid.

Of course changing out the 30AMP pull-out cable means I have to now buy a new 30AMP cable with the twist lock connector on it to hook up to shore power or my 2KW Honda Generator. Or buy the KIT you purchased.... I'll have to check-in and see what the best deal is cost wise. Some of those cable items can get real expensive...

That PVC/plastic panel you needed is available from LOWES I bet buying a lid or something you can modify to fit around the existing screw holes. I use the electrical dept at LOWES for alot of my RV electrical needs. They have a full line of PVC electrical products...

[nitrohorse]

That ring you made looks like a factory fit. No, let me correct that...it looks better than factory. If you want to pass that
mod off as a factory option smear some Doctor all over the plastic plate and that will replicate a factory job...lol

[tnchuck100]

I completed this conversion today.

I my case I ordered the inlet and a right angle power cord. Not the conversion kit.

Others have had issue with the mouse hole opening being too large even for the adapter that comes in the conversion kit. Anticipating that problem I went to Lowe's and just searched for something I could make my own adapter. What I found was a plastic disk that was intended to be placed on drywall to stop a door knob from putting a hole in the dry wall. It happened to be EXACTLY the diameter of the mouse hole piece. I drilled a 2 3/4 inch hole in it, mounted the inlet and screwed it to the trailer using the existing hole.

BTW, my siding is not the smooth fiberglass material. It is the wavy aluminum siding.

Hope this helps with those trying to find an adapter.