Re-Sealing RV/TT windows...

[Spike99]

My family has a 2006 Jayco 29FBS. Unknown to me, this TT was built with "Dry Fit" windows. Like many other brands of RV/TT windows, a sponge / rubber gasket is used between the trailer's siding and its Window's inner lip. Vision foam rubber being sandwiched between 2 hard materials. This stuff works in the short term but after 2+ years, it starts to leak. And, windows leak behind the windows / between its walls - where it cannot be seen from the outside. Before your TT's "Dry Fit" windows start to leak, do get them re-sealed. Re-Sealed the proper "old school" way - using soft putty.

Last summer, I removed 2 windows each weekend (or, 1 x windows a day). I simply removed the window, took a putty scraper and removed this foam / rubber seal, and re-sealed each window using soft putty "old school" method. During its 11 window re-sealing task, I was surprised to see 3 of the windows were already leaking. And 1 window was leaking really bad. Saved it "just in time". If I waited 1 more year, its inner wall would have been rotted out.

For re-sealing instructions, I cloned instructions within:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UL1ig8gnwg

Note: This movie clip shows removing old soft putty and replacing with newer soft putty. Same removal / replace sealer tasks are used to remove the factory foam / rubber sealer of "dry fit" RV/TT windows.


If your RV/TT is older then 2+ years and have factory "dry fit" windows, I'd recommend re-sealing your windows with "soft putty" sealer. This easy DIY maintenance task worked great on our 2006 Jayco. Just "take your time" and do 2 windows each weekend.

Hope this helps others...

.

[Denise]

Very informative. Isn't it nice that there are folks out there who post stuff like this on youtube? Thanks for sharing Spike

[Mopar1973Man]

Some good information there...

Hopefully I don't have to reseal and windows for at least a few years... I want to have some fun with the TT before I have to turn wrenches or screws...

I would recommend using butyl rubber tape. Same labor as "soft putty" tape, but has a much longer life. It is available in black and also an off white. Thanks for the information on sealing windows.

I waited to long on a previous fifth wheel and the wall started to rot! Had to replace a part of the interior wall panel and bracing. Do not wait to see damage before you reseal the windows. To late then!

As you stated, it is really easy to accomplish. It is best to have a second person to support the window outside after the inside trim ring is removed. Otherwise, you may need a dust pan to sweep up the broken glass, after the window falls out. I used a battery operated drill motor with a torque setting to remove and install the screws.

[Denise]

Originally Posted by 001952119

I would recommend using butyl rubber tape. Same labor as "soft putty" tape, but has a much longer life. It is available in black and also an off white. Thanks for the information on sealing windows.

I waited to long on a previous fifth wheel and the wall started to rot! Had to replace a part of the interior wall panel and bracing. Do not wait to see damage before you reseal the windows. To late then!

As you stated, it is really easy to accomplish. It is best to have a second person to support the window outside after the inside trim ring is removed. Otherwise, you may need a dust pan to sweep up the broken glass, after the window falls out. I used a battery operated drill motor with a torque setting to remove and install the screws.

Just curious, how old was the 5'er when the seals needed to be replaced? I wondered what might the average life of those seals.... BTW, welcome to the Jayco Owners Forum 001952119!

I do not recall. I had the unit for 14 years. I periodically resealed various windows when the sealant tape appeared to be shrinking and/or drying out. Putty tape is cheap and it is not overly difficult to pull and reseal windows. When you remove the window, it will generally be necessary to pry the window from the sidewall. Just use a stiff putty style knife and DO NOT bend the window frame. That would be a potential source for future leaks. You can also use a piece of wood, i.e. 2x4 cut to about 12" and place on the very edge of the frame and strike with a hammer. Make sure the wood is long enough to distribute the force of the hammer blow throuhout the edge. Obviously, use a "reasonable" amount of striking force to protect the window from damage. I always clean the sealing surfaces with rubbing alcohol, just to ensure a clean, oil free surface. If you use a hand held screwdriver, it will take forever to pull all the windows. Use a battery operated drill motor with a variable torque chuck. You set the torque low and it will work throughout the project without stripping out the threaded holes. My final "word of wisdom" is to use a wood cuticle stick to trim the excess putty from the outside trim area. This works well and protects scarring the paint or gel coat, as would happen with a metal object. Wal-Mart has them in a pack of two for 98 cents in the cosmetics section.

[Crabman]

I have seen this issue come up before on another forum about windows with dry fit gaskets leaking soon after purchase. I find it a bit disappointing and disturbing that these RV manufacturers use a window seal that fails so soon. How many buyers expect or are prepared to pull all the windows and reseal them after only 2 yrs? How many unsuspecting owners without the benefit of this knowledge and these forums have leaking windows right now? We all expect general basic maintenance but having to dismantle your trailer after 2 yrs is a bit much IMO. I think they can do better then this....

[Spike99]

Originally Posted by Crabman

I have seen this issue come up before on another forum about windows with dry fit gaskets leaking soon after purchase. I find it a bit disappointing and disturbing that these RV manufacturers use a window seal that fails so soon. How many buyers expect or are prepared to pull all the windows and reseal them after only 2 yrs? How many unsuspecting owners without the benefit of this knowledge and these forums have leaking windows right now? We all expect general basic maintenance but having to dismantle your trailer after 2 yrs is a bit much IMO. I think they can do better then this....

I agree. My 2006 TT (3.5 year old) uses factory build "dry fit" method and of its 11 windows, 3 of them were leaking. 1 window was leaking really bad. And, I didn't even know it. As mentioned above, by the time one does notice a leaking window, its "too late". Too much inner wall damage is already done.

For me, I used RV Flex sealer (which is like silicone material) instead of soft putty. I also put a coat of this clear stuff around the top and sides of each window frame lip as well. Haven't had a window leak since.

To me, the TT factories only need to make something last the warranty period. And if it breaks or leaks after warranty period, the TT owner is forced into repair. Thus, more business coming back to the TT factory / TT maker. Based on my 1st hand experience and reading many posts from others, "dry fit" windows don't work. TT makers need to use traditional "soft buddy" method instead. The old school method of sealing windows is much better.

For my next TT, I'll be re-sealing its "dry fit" windows as well. The day after its warranty time period is over, I'll be "making it better". Luckily, I'm not afraid of DIY projects - especially this easy project (by following the folks in the U-Tube video).

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[Crabman]

I can handle many DIY projects as well and it looks like this will be one of them after the warranty is out. I have read about 3 instances where a 28 BHS, same model as mine, have had window leaks, and these were not old trailers.

[chopshop]

This is good information to know, after seeing this thread, this has really got my thinking about how many windows I have to take care of...not fun. Thanks for the youtube video, I hope all my windows come out that easy.

[chopshop]

I have a dumb question, Why can't we just silicone around the whole window rather than replacing all the putty?

[lou1216gc]

Originally Posted by Crabman

I have seen this issue come up before on another forum about windows with dry fit gaskets leaking soon after purchase. I find it a bit disappointing and disturbing that these RV manufacturers use a window seal that fails so soon. How many buyers expect or are prepared to pull all the windows and reseal them after only 2 yrs? How many unsuspecting owners without the benefit of this knowledge and these forums have leaking windows right now? We all expect general basic maintenance but having to dismantle your trailer after 2 yrs is a bit much IMO. I think they can do better then this....

I agree. My TT is only a year old and cant even begin to go over the list of things that were just not proper. I mean is it me or does it just feel like no one has any pride in their craft anymore. It seems that very few things are well built and engineered anymore. I enjoy the TT mods but 2 years to replace seals in windows so they dont leak is just unacceptable.

[Spike99]

Originally Posted by chopshop

I have a dumb question, Why can't we just silicone around the whole window rather than replacing all the putty?

As a temp solution, one can apply a solicone type material (like RV Flex) around the top and sides of the window frame. However, this is only a temp / short term solution.

IMO... It would be best to pull / remove each RV window (as shown in the U-Tube Video in the opening post) and apply soft puddy (or better butyl caulking tape material) on the "inside" of the window gap. Then, apply silicone type material on the top and sides. Thus, getting 2 layers of water protection. It would be like wearing a plastic sheet over a large fisherman's rain coat. Double the protection instead of a thin layer of plastic (like wearing a thin plastic coat on a rainy day). For a trailer that shifts and twists while being towed, it would be best to have 2 layers of water protection. Thus, I'd recommend "both" is applied. re: Under the windows lip and on the outer top/sides of the window's outer edge.

For me, I did 2 windows each weekend. 1 window on Saturday and 1 window on Sunday - while the kids slept in. At end of 6 weeks of camping, all windows were resealed. Doing this DIY project is easy. Just go "slow and steady". Works for me....

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[Mopar1973Man]

Not to poke holes at this... (Being punny)...

But on the other sites Silicone is talked down greatly and the butyl tape is pushed as a single fix.

Like you I'd rather have 2 materials helping each other...

Like most silicones are rated for up to 50 years. But I've never seen butyl tape last that long... Then looking at automotive sealant like the urethane sealant for windshields is pretty tough stuff too. So why isn't a silicone based or urethane base sealant used more on windows and seams than butyl tape???

Try to learn and understand the designers mind...

Matter of fact since we are on this topic tomorrow in the light I shot some pics and see what you guys think...

[Spike99]

Surf entire video at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UL1ig8gnwg

The last 20 seconds, the guy is applying white silicone on the top and side of the window frame. His words is "finishing it off "....

Interesting video....

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[CTcamper]

Originally Posted by Crabman

I can handle many DIY projects as well and it looks like this will be one of them after the warranty is out. I have read about 3 instances where a 28 BHS, same model as mine, have had window leaks, and these were not old trailers.

are all of Jaycos windows dry fit? I have a 28BHS and am wondering if we should be worrying about this.....

[Spike99]

.

For any brand or model of trailer that has factory dry-fit windows (which seems to be the new method these days), I would simply remove the window and install butyl tape, and clear silicone on this top and side window outer lip edges. Especially when the trailer is past its factory warranty date. Simply re-seal 2 windows every weekend and in 6 weeks, all trailer windows are re-sealed. Or, do a "bltiz" and complete all windows back to back (within 2 days).

Removing the RV window and re-sealling them "the proper way" isn't that hard. Simply remove its inner screws, remove the window, remove the factory "dry fit" rubber seal, keep its plastic window spacers, apply the butyl tape on the inside of the window lip, then re-install the window. Very easy - even with a manual screw driver. See U-Tube video for a visual.

If it was my trailer and knowing what I know today (re: 3 windows leaking of the 11 on year 3 of my TT), I would simply re-seal the windows. Then, good for 10+ years. And, no worries about un-seen inner wall leaks either.

Note: If unable to do yourself, hire the task out. I'm sure there's a few DIY folks in your region who are willing to make some cash. For something like this, minimum wage type of job.

.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by CTcamper

are all of Jaycos windows dry fit? I have a 28BHS and am wondering if we should be worrying about this.....

I would not lose much sleep over it. Those that had problems with windows under warranty were taken care of. I would just keep an eye on them until the warranty is out. Then you could do like Spike said and gradually reseal the windows to your own satisfaction. It is also important to keep an eye on all the sealants on the roof, corner molding, lights compartment doors etc. One crack in a roof seal can lead to a substantial leak and damage. RV`s do a lot of flexing which along with environmental factors can break or erode seals.

[altar1]

Originally Posted by Spike99

My family has a 2006 Jayco 29FBS. Unknown to me, this TT was built with "Dry Fit" windows. .

<snip>

So how does one know which trailers use "dry fit" windows?

Tom

[namusmc65]

I had a 2001 Jayco 27footer and just traded it in on a new 31 RKS. Never had any problems with any leaks anywhere. DId have the roof resealed every couple of years but never did anything with the windows.