Reese DC jam up

[basil1]

I recently installed the DC system. I have a 12000/1200lb hitch with heavy spring bars (don't remember the specs on those). I mounted the cam plates at the 18" mark. Alignment is good. The cams are about 1/2 inch forward of the arch center on the spring bars in the relaxed position. I am using 4-5 links of chain. I have the nuts backed right off. I pull up the snap bracket. The cam bar slides along so the cam is seated. Spring bar parralel with frame.TV straight ahead. TV and TT level. Snug up nuts. Release the snap brackets and the cam arm stays put. spring bar doesn't even try to come down cause the two are bound up together. I have to take up tension on spring bar again and back of the rear nut. then it will come loose as the cam bar is aloud to slide free. I've done something wrong, but what? I haven't been able to do the drive around and then straight ahead as the instruction say. ( I will do this). I just don't think I should be getting all bound up like this. Any thoughts. If I can't sort this out, I'll take some pics of the assembly.

Basil1

[Rustic Eagle]

Basil1,

Photos will help a lot. Does your WDH have round style spring bars or trunnion style spring bars?

If the spring bar is binding with the Cam Arm Yoke, then you may have to add ball mount tilt (toward your TT) which will allow you to increase the amount of chain links under tension. This will lower the spring bar away from the cam arm yoke when the spring bar is engaged.

Not all Reese Dual Cam set-ups are set-up the same (TV/TT combinations are different), but here is mine:



Which version of the Reese Dual Cam do you have?

Latest "HP" version:



Early "HP" version:



Also, is you Jayco TT ball coupler welded to the top or bottom of the TT A-frame?

Bob

[Bob Landry]

I just finished setting mine up. Since you mounted the cam plates at 18". I'm going to assume you have the round bars. If you have the trunnion setup, then that is the wrong measurement. Also, the measurement is taken from the cam pivot point to the centerline of the coupler. That said....

I would start over from scratch with the WD adjustment. You said 4-5 links. It's 5 links minimum. More is OK, less is not. Round bars perform best when parallel to the frame. Use the number of links needed to do that, again a minimum of 5 links. Check the weight transfer by measuring the fender well heights, front and back. Current thinking by the truck makers is to return the front fender to the unloaded height. Don't worry about the rear, it will take care of itself. If front and rear go down the same, great, but they don't have to. If you need more or less weight transfer, do it with the hitch tilt, keeping the 5 links on the chain. Don't worry about leveling the trailer at this point. You'll do that later by moving the hitch up or down in the stinger as needed.

Once you get the weight transfer set, then install the DC. Read the instructions very carefully. It's not rocket science, but every step is important. It really sounds like your WD just isn't set up correctly.

[basil1]

Thanks for both your replies. Mine is the early HP style and my coupler in welded to the bottom of the A-frame. My ball mount is virtually vertical so tiling it towards the trailer will allow me to use 5-6 links. I'll adjust it in next few days and see how it goes. I will re-measure my WD as well. And yes they are the round spring bars for the 12000 hitch.

[Rustic Eagle]

Basil1,

Note that with the early HP version Reese did have a typo in their installation instructions pertaining to the chain hanger bracket. Referring to the small U-bolt threads:

Reads: "With ends of U-bolt facing inward,".

Should Read: "With ends of U-bolt facing outward,".

The Reese assembly/connection diagrams are correct, showing the threaded ends of the U-bolt facing outward (as shown in my photo). If they are reversed it places an unwanted outward force on the snap-up bracket.

With the TT coupler welded on the bottom it eliminates potential clearance issues with the leading edge of the TT tube frame.

Also use the same spring bar and chain hanger bracket over the same cam surface to reduce on-going metal wear. My drivers side spring bar/chain hanger bracket is identified with plastic zip-ties.

As mentioned, the round spring bars when engaged you want them parallel to the TT A-frame (as best as you can). My set-up uses the Reese 1,200lb trunnion style spring bars so I can angle them.

Bob