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Old 01-21-2014, 07:43 PM   #1
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Stopped up black tank washer

My trailer came equipped with a black tank washer and I have used it numerous times. Last week when I tried to use it, it was stopped up and would not let any water flow into the tank. When I turned on the water spigot supplying the tank washer, there was no sound of water running. When I turned off the spigot, and disconnected the hose, the water in the hose was still under pressure. So I do not believe there is a leak.

I got a diagram of the washer from Jayco and other than simple piping going to the black tank washer, there is only an item identified as a vacuum breaker. It seems to me that the only places the water to the washer could be blocked is at the vacuum breaker or at the nozzle in the tank. Since the washer at the supply hose connection has a screen, I'm thinking that it is unlikely that the nozzle is stopped up. That just leaves the vacuum breaker as the source of the problem (if my analysis is right).

The most common vacuum breaker on a tank washer I see mentioned is made by B&B, a model 571. Here's a picture.

Questions:

Is the problem likely the vacuum breaker or a stopped up nozzle?

Is there an easy way to unstop such a nozzle (which is covered up by the Coroplast bottom)?

Is the B&B model 571 the vacuum breaker Jayco uses?

And any other thoughts...
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:36 AM   #2
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... never had that problem, RVhiker, but it sounds like it has to be one or the other. Can you remove the vacuum breaker from the system to see if you can get flow through it when it's not connected. My guess is the breaker has a valve that seats when there is no flow. When you start flow into the tank, it probably pushes that valve open.

If it is a nozzle, you might be able to reach it through the toilet. When I got mine I ran the black tank flush with no fresh water available to the toilet valve. I just wanted to see it working, but I remember the nozzle as being close to the opening. Also, enzyme type tank treatments are supposed to be better at breaking up waste.
If you can't get to the nozzle, I would try soaking it in one of the enzyme treatments. If your currently using chemicals, you have to flush the tank first with an enzyme because the chemicals kill the working bacteria.

I would suspect the breaker first. Good luck, and let us know how you resolved it.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:55 AM   #3
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The vacuum breaker on this system is crap. We had to replace 20 last camping season. You can bypass it, or order a new one.

http://www.rvpartsnation.com/product...er-check-valve

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p.s. this is the one Jayco recommends you go to.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:09 AM   #4
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Thanks for the comments and information. I'll post a picture or two after I fix the washer, but I'll have to wait for a warmer stretch of weather before I do it.
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:33 AM   #5
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I had the same problem, only on the fresh water fill system. Found out it was the check valve that was stuck and wouldn't open to allow water in. Replaced the valve and no more problems.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:24 PM   #6
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Might be worth a try with a wet dry vacuum to suck out the water and other residue that might be clogging the valve, via the intake side connection.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Might be worth a try with a wet dry vacuum to suck out the water and other residue that might be clogging the valve, via the intake side connection.
That's a very interesting although potentially messy idea! Three cheers for creative thinking. Thanks.

Note: I noticed that this is my 500th post, so I believe I move into a higher order of being. How appropriate for an RV'er that the subject of that vaunted 500th post was sucking on a black tank, and more appropriate that I am thinking about doing it.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John LLRV View Post
The vacuum breaker on this system is crap. We had to replace 20 last camping season. You can bypass it, or order a new one.

http://www.rvpartsnation.com/product...er-check-valve

John

p.s. this is the one Jayco recommends you go to.

You should NOT bypass the vac breaker. It is there to prevent back flow from the tank into your potable water supply and the resulting contamination. If bad, it should be replaced, not eliminated.
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:03 AM   #9
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RVHiker, congratulations on your becoming a Senior Member! I enjoy your posts.

In the above thread, you say: "That's a very interesting although potentially messy idea!" There are those of us (and you're one of them) who become plumbers when we need to be. It's simple, you wash your hands when your done. And you saved a few bucks along the way.

Edit: I mostly agree with tinlizzie about not bypassing. But, I would bypass mine temporarily (if I had to wait for a part or something) and only connect it when I was using it. I wouldn't use it with multiple connections, or sell it bypassed.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:57 AM   #10
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Sorry.. I should have said temporarily. I did not mean for a bypass to be a permanent solution.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:08 PM   #11
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Well, it's not the vacuum breaker check valve - I checked it today and it lets water flow. So the nozzle is stopped up and I need to remove it and unstop it. Does anyone know what kind of holding tank rinsing system Jayco uses (Camco Tornado?) and what kind of sealant is used to attach it to the black tank?
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:11 AM   #12
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Well.. its Jayco PN 0179744 SPRAYER,TANK 3 PIECE WITH WATER INLET/VACUUM BREAKER/ AND TANK SPRAYER.

Runs about $55 at a dealer. As for brand, I am not sure, the Jayco parts site does not give me a description. Looks like the sprayer itself is just a glue on of some sort.

Sub parts are:
0200179 SPRAYER,TANK HOLDING GLUE-IN
0218280 INLET,WATER SPRAYER TANK WHITE (BRASS)
0502149 DECAL,"CAUTION SEWER TANK FLUSHER SEWER VALVES MUST BE OPEN WHEN USING THIS INLET"
0502647 BREAKER,VACUUM/CHECK VALVE SPRAYER TANK

I can call it in, but the Camco may be the closest one. Let me know if you need me to give Jayco a yell.

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Old 02-18-2014, 08:19 AM   #13
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John, I really appreciate you looking this up and all the help you have provided to others. I hope that we don't wear you out!
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:14 AM   #14
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John, I really appreciate you looking this up and all the help you have provided to others. I hope that we don't wear you out!
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:41 AM   #15
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Here is a thought.. hook up a compresses air supply to the black tank rinser.. and then starting at the normal city water pressure start increasing the pressure till you blow the blockage out of the spray head of the rinser..
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:20 AM   #16
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John, I really appreciate you looking this up and all the help you have provided to others. I hope that we don't wear you out!
Heh, thanks, and no problem. Its kinda what I get paid for. I look at it as I am helping others, outside my store, a Jayco owner is still a Jayco owner, and deserves the best service, no matter from who.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:37 AM   #17
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If you do use an air compressor, I would be cautious as to how high you set the compressors air supply pressure. I would hate to see someone blow the aerator end off inside the tank or worse yet, have the aerator explode into pieces. Either way it would be a mess...

For those of us that have had these systems for a few years and need to clean them, I wonder if pouring Lime A-Way down the opening may help remove any lime or other mineral deposits inside the aerator. I know that most of it would just pass through, but it may work, or may remove the crud in bigger pieces and block the openings?? What to do??
Just my thoughts
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:35 AM   #18
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Before you try the air pressure or the Lime Away, I'd try pouring some white vinegar into the outlet. It will do the same thing as the Lime Away, but won't harm your siding if you should get any on it. Let it set in the line for 30-45 minutes, then try the water hose. In my old trailer, I use to get calcium build-up in the galley faucet so bad that It wouldn't let any water flow out. Of course, on the faucet, I could just remove the aerator. The white vinegar should dissolve the lime in the spray head.

On the other hand, you don't suppose it's just got an ice plug in it? It has been pretty cold lately. Just a thought.
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:30 AM   #19
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I used the part numbers I got from JohnLLRV. The parts guy at my Jayco dealer had the Jayco black tank washer system in stock. The system is from bandbmolders.com; here's a link to a PDF from their site which has the black tank washer pictured in it. They also have a lot of other RV plastic parts, but I don't think they sell to consumers.

I really believe that the spray head is stopped up with "material" from within our black tank. We're taking a short trip soon, and my hope is that the sloshing of fluid in the tank will soften up the stoppage enough that the sprayhead will work again. Failing that, when we get home I'll make a hole in the coroplast bottom and take the sprayhead out and clean it. I did learn from the dealer that they use silicone sealant when installing a black tank washer.

For the present, I'm going to avoid using air pressure and cleaners of various sorts. Our water pressure at the house is about 60 pounds, and I wouldn't want to go above that to test out my pex plumbing. And, if my theory is correct about what is stopping up the spray head, I don't thing vinegar or Lime Away would do much good.

I'll post again when my black tank washer saga has another chapter.
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