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05-30-2011, 02:44 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 3
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thermostat problem
We just bought a 29 ft trailor and when we set it up at home we cant get the thermostat to work.there is no air conditionig,fan,or heat.the breakers seeem to be fine.is there any switches or other fuses somewhere.thanks for any help.doug
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05-30-2011, 06:12 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,643
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What brand of thermostat is it? Is it digital? Does it use batteries?
Do other AC appliances work - like the microwave? Or the power convertor?
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There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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05-30-2011, 07:30 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 3
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everything else works.it is a slide control and a switch for heat,cool,fan control
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05-30-2011, 08:06 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,643
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In saying everything else works, you mean that other AC items work, right?
The only suggestion I have is to flip each and every AC circuit breaker off and then on; sometimes they can appear to be on but actually be off.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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05-30-2011, 10:58 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mostly the US
Posts: 10,002
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Welcome to the Jayco Owners forum Doug! What year and model Jayco do you have?
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Denise, DH, grandkids, and two rescue pups
-2016 Jay Flight 29QBS Elite
-2016 Ford F-250 XLT 4x2, 6.2L EFI V8, 4.30 Elec Lock, Heavy duty Alt
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05-30-2011, 03:31 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 3
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2006 jay feather lgt sport baja
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06-01-2011, 10:17 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 34
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If both the Furnace and Air Conditioner do not work, they may be separate problems. What they do have in common is that they use 12V DC to control them through the thermostat. On my 22FB the DC power also controls the refridgerator. Check you Furnace Fuse. If all is good, you may have a bad ground connection behind the thermostat.
Pop the thermostat from the base to access the connections. You could use a 12V test light between terminals R & B to see if the 12V and ground are reaching the thermostat.
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2010 Jay Flight 22FB
2011 Ford F250 KR CC 4x4 PSD
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05-16-2016, 10:17 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: baker city
Posts: 10
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I have a similar problem. I have tested the trailer batteries and they are reading 13.5 dc volts then went to the thermostat and get only 0.13 dcv. which I believe is not enough current (12V) to the thermostat? I have checked all the breaker to the heater and air conditioner and fuses in panel and on battery all look good. So, question now is are there any other fuses for the dc voltage that may not be obvious? Everything else that doesn't require dc voltage seems to work in the trailer. Any suggestions on what I should test? A freiend suggest I hook my truck up to the trailer and see if that allows for DC to get to thermostat, may try that tomorrow. For know I have no heat or air period!
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05-17-2016, 06:51 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Campbell Hall
Posts: 2,835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troutman34
I have a similar problem. I have tested the trailer batteries and they are reading 13.5 dc volts then went to the thermostat and get only 0.13 dcv. which I believe is not enough current (12V) to the thermostat? I have checked all the breaker to the heater and air conditioner and fuses in panel and on battery all look good. So, question now is are there any other fuses for the dc voltage that may not be obvious? Everything else that doesn't require dc voltage seems to work in the trailer. Any suggestions on what I should test? A freiend suggest I hook my truck up to the trailer and see if that allows for DC to get to thermostat, may try that tomorrow. For know I have no heat or air period!
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0.13 of a volt means you have an open circuit. Blown fuse, bad connection, broken or chewed-through wire.
Pull up the harness from behind the thermostat and see of there is a fuse. See if you can chase the wiring back to the converter.
My 1st trailer (it was 25 year old when I bought it) had a bit of corrosion on the connectors at the converter. Also check that the fuse holders are in good condition.
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TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
TV 2003 F-350 "Montblanc" - Housebroken chore truck
Sitting in The Cheap Seats.
And proud of it!
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05-17-2016, 09:52 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 455
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You have me curious so I pulled the Atwood wiring diagrams. Depending on which model of furnace you have it could be the breaker at the furnace. For some furnace models the DC power to the T-stat goes through the breaker mounted on the furnace control board. If tripped a re-set should fix it depending on why it tripped in the first place. For other models the 12VDC to the T-stat is from the same circuit as the furnace but tapped ahead of the furnace so would be some other problem in that case.
There is also a little 2A glass fuse in the t-stat. It can be on the front or back of the t-stat. From your description the fuse is probably good but worth a check.
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2016 Jayflight 26BHS Elite
2014 F150 4x4 Super Crew, Eco-Boost, Max Tow
Bayliner Trophy 2002ff
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05-17-2016, 10:31 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: baker city
Posts: 10
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Not fuse on t-stat and Stumped
I checked the 2 amp fuse on the t-stat and it looks good. I also checked 30 amp fuse at the converter and it looks good. I have not air condition or heater and only 0.13 amps at t-stat, which I believe should be 12 v correct? I pulled wires behind the t-stat and could not find another fuse. It has to be a fuse or the converter. Are there any other items that run of the dc? I am stumped and don't know what else I could check? I made an appointment with the local Jayco repair shop but they can't look at for another 2 weeks?
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05-17-2016, 10:37 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 455
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Do you know what model furnace you have? And did you try resetting the breaker on the furnace?
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05-17-2016, 10:56 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: baker city
Posts: 10
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I have not looked for reset on heater. But as I mentioned both the air conditioner and heater are both not working. When I get a day off I will look for a reset on the furnace but that still wont solve my air conditioner problem. Why would this not be connected to the t-stat and dc power?
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05-17-2016, 11:04 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: baker city
Posts: 10
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Couldn't find a fuse behind the t-stat, as I pulled the wires out. I had power to the air conditioner when I went to work on the heater on sunday. As the heater was not working, I shut off the power at the breaker in order to look closer at heater, when i turned power back on including re-hooking batteries i had nothing in terms of heater or air conditioner, all other camper appliances and lights did all work. so that is when i started to check fuses and ultimately the t-stat voltage, which was only 0.13 dcV. I am really thinking because of all this that its related to a fuse or breaker. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
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05-17-2016, 11:11 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 455
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Mine is a 2016 and depending on your furnace model it may be different. On my furnace the 12VDC power to the t-stat comes off the secondary side of the furnace switch/breaker. If it trips then power is lost to both the furnace and the t-stat.
Although the AC unit is not directly affected it relies on the same control power at the t-stat.
To access the breaker on the furnace in my unit it looks like you pull the wooden grate under the fridge off.
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05-17-2016, 11:17 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: baker city
Posts: 10
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My furnace is tucked under the sin, so not easy access but will see if I can figure out how the cover comes off. Sure wish they made it so you could get to the furnace from the outside but not. Will look for brand and model tomorrow and let you know. Thanks for advice!
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05-18-2016, 05:10 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vienna
Posts: 2,044
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[QUOTE=troutman34;409125]I checked the 2 amp fuse on the t-stat and it looks good. I also checked 30 amp fuse at the converter and it looks good.
Looks good and is good are two different things. You need to put a meter on those fuses to make sure they really are good. IMO. Good luck. Sometimes those problems are just crazy to chase down!
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Joe Hinson
2010 Jayco Quest G2(SOLD)
2014 Jayco Eagle 33.5RETS
2007 Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins(SOLD)
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 4WD
:)
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05-18-2016, 08:36 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: baker city
Posts: 10
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Looks like it is a Atwood hydro flame furnace model is not obvious but manual states either 7900-II, 8212-II, 8500-IV, or 8900-III. I will see if I can find the model stamped on the unit.
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05-19-2016, 10:22 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 455
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As mentioned if you haven't already, pull the fuse and put your meter across to confirm its good. They aren't always obviously burnt and just doing a visual won't always tell you if its failed.
If you have your user manual for the furnace it shows the wiring diagrams in it. They are also available online at atwood mobile products: RV Furnaces - Atwood Mobile
The 7900-II and 8000-II series mount vertically, are wired identical and have the t-stat power tapped off ahead of the furnace breaker. There should be a red(+) and black (-) from the main fuse panel to the furnace. The red should be spliced near the furnace with a white tapped off and brought out somewhere near the front of the compartment with a second white coming from the control board. These will be spliced onto the t-stat wires. If this is your furnace I would meter the red/black supply at the furnace and make sure you have 12VDC there. If not it can really only be one of 4 things: bad fuse, bad connections, cut wire or a bad ground. If you have 12VDC at the furnace then I would jumper the two whites together at the furnace and your furnace fan should come on. If it does not then you likely have a bad ground if it runs then it's your t-stat or wiring between the furnace to the t-stat.
The 8500-IV and 8900-III series mount horizontally, are wired identical to each other and the t-stat power is on the secondary side of the switch/breaker on the furnace. If this is your furnace then start by re-setting the furnace breaker. If that doesn't fix it then check for power at the furnace terminal strip. Terminals 1&4 is the supply and should read 12VDC across, if ok then 2 is +12VDC to the t-stat and should read 12VDC across 2&4, if ok jumper 2&5 and your furnace fan should come on. If it does not then you likely have a bad ground and if it does then it's your t-stat or wiring from the furnace to the t-stat.
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2016 Jayflight 26BHS Elite
2014 F150 4x4 Super Crew, Eco-Boost, Max Tow
Bayliner Trophy 2002ff
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05-27-2016, 06:10 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: baker city
Posts: 10
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Have power but no heat
I found the model number it is a atwood 8525-iv-dclp. I pulled the unit today and yes it was the switch I reset it and now have power to the furnace and air conditoner. My furnace still won't ignite I can hear it cycle but no heat. Could that be a bad board or something else.
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