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Several things can make a trailer brakes feel jerky, uneven or have an "inconsistent" feeling. These items could be:
A - Unwanted residue (like oil film or dirt film) on the brake drums or inner magnet surface. If trailer is new, it might have a small amount of residue. As a suggestion, remove each wheel hub and using brake cleaner spray (
http://www.ardinacarcare.nl/images/p...lean-spray.png ) , clean the brake magnet surface and brake drum surface. Thus, removing any unwanted chemical residue.
B - Could be rust (natural rust) on brake drum surface as well. Simply remove each wheel hub and using 120 grid sand paper and steel wool to remove this rust (only off the inner side of brake hub - where its brake pads come into contact). Always hand sand "in same direction" of the contact movement of the brake pads. Never sand `across the grain` (sort of speaking). Then, apply brake fluid cleaner to remove the dry rust.
C - Brake assemblies could be improperly adjusted. Self adjusting brakes (brake pads) often work great but sometimes, their adjustment mechanism can stick. Suggest removing each brake hub and ensure their adjustments can be moved by hand.
D - Could be loose wire from Vehicle's brake controller to trailer's wheel hub as well. When brakes feel uneven (when being applied), do view the LED on on vehicle's Brake Controller. If brake controller is showing bad wire connection, then odds are, a bad wire connection - NOT a mechanical problem.
E - Improper (unsynchronized) feeling of both vehicle brakes and trailer brakes can also be from the Brake Controller type as well. If currently using a "time technology" brake controller, remove it and "throw it away". Yes - throw it into the trash. IMO, timed brake controller technology should be illegal. Replace with a proportional (aka: "motion sensor") brake controller technology. For example, Prodigy P2 or P3. For example:
F - Could also be a nicked or pinched 10 gauge brake wire. Thus, only allowing small amount of current to some / single wheel hub. When doing wheel hub cleaning / grease re-packing, always double / triple inspect its thick 10 gauge duplex brake wiring as well.
If brake wiring needs to be replaced (due to old age or due to damage), do replace its factory linear design with "much better" Star Design configuration. For pictures of each, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ing-Linear.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...iring-Star.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/100_1429.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/100_1433.jpg
If wondering, I replaced the linear design with star design wiring on each of my trailers (re: previous 19ft TT, my 1 x utility trailer and current 2006 Jayco 29FBS), and am very impressed with its improved braking ability. This wiring design also allows "even" distribution of 12V current to each wheel hub as well. To me, all trailers should have mandatory Star Design brake wiring as "minimum code".
As suggested, I'd leave your trailer as is (re: at The Park for Winter months). Before you tow your 5er/TT again (this spring ???), I'd remove each wheel hub, inspect/clean their inner wheel hubs (and brake assembly areas) and install NEW wheel bearing grease. Simply do 1 wheel at a time and within 3 hours, all 4 wheels can be cleaned and inspected. If wondering, natural rust will form inside the wheel hubs during damp winter months. Thus, always best to clean and re-pack grease in wheel hubs each spring (before towing your 5er/TT anywhere). And yes, DIY hub inspection, rust removal, cleaning and re-packing wheel bearing grease can be done "at the Park" with simple DIY tools.
For some good DIY movies of wheel hub removals, brake inspection & re-packing wheel grease, surf:
http://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv?v=FMiunGtuSP4
Hope this helps as well...
Good luck....
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Linear Mode
