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Old 05-12-2016, 02:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
I got talked into a single 12V deep cycle solution by the guy selling both types:
  • Each 6V was 80% the cost and 60% the weight and bulk of the 12V
  • The single Ah capacity of the 12V was 96% of the 6V.
So, for 60% less cost, 40% less weight, one less battery box and no additional jumper, I get over 95% of the performance.

It's a compromise I can live with!
Good info ! I always appreciate people who have "done their" homework and make INFORMED DECISIONS !

What brand and model battery if you don't mind.
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Old 05-12-2016, 02:27 PM   #12
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Good info ! I always appreciate people who have "done their" homework and make INFORMED DECISIONS !

What brand and model battery if you don't mind.
Mind? Not at all. Clues? None at all!

Battery brand? Couldn't tell you without looking at it again.

The receipt is still in my wallet:
I bought the new battery box and battery at "Batteries Plus Bulbs #776" just a few blocks from my office.

The battery appears to be a "SLI31MDC" or "DC31DT" or "NG-31"

Homework? Moi?

I walked into the place wanting two 6V + two Boxes + one jumper. As I mentioned above, I got talked into the single 12V solution by the sales guy (franchise holder?).
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Old 05-12-2016, 02:40 PM   #13
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The battery appears to be a "SLI31MDC" or "DC31DT" or "NG-31"
The SLI31MDC is made by Duracell. They used to have them at Sams Club, but I think Sams only has the AGM version now. Sold at Batteries and Bulbs.

The DC31DT is made by DEKA. Lots of retailers.

The NG-31 is an Exide Nautilas sold at Home Depot.

None are up to the specs of the Trojan T-1275, but they cost less and are more readily available.

I question ANY battery as being a "true" deep discharge battery that advertises a Cold Cranking Amp rating.
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Old 05-12-2016, 03:33 PM   #14
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...
I question ANY battery as being a "true" deep discharge battery that advertises a Cold Cranking Amp rating.
And the one I bought has no CCA makings whatsoever. But it does have the 20A and (damn I can't remember the one) rate for Ah.
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Old 05-12-2016, 04:21 PM   #15
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This is good info. Keep talking. I will soon be in the market for new house batteries for my Seneca. There is only space for two batteries size 31 (each 12"L X 7"W X 8-3/4"H) . I might end up with AGM, but my charging system does not support the specific charging profile of a AGM battery. As I understand it, that will shorten the life of the AGMs. So, I'm wondering if they are still worth the extra cost.

I thought about 6v golf cart batteries, but it sounds as though the limited space makes that unlikely that it would have any advantage at all, and in fact might actually be a detriment, as I would likely need four of them to equal or surpass the power density of the 12 volt units. I'm starting to think that true deep cycle flooded batteries might be the best selection here.

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-12-2016, 04:34 PM   #16
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My RV mechanic recommended an auto resetting circuit breaker in line with the OEM charger, when I converted to 2 6v. He said that the charger may attempt to initially push more amps than the wiring was designed for if the batteries were deeply discharged. The breaker would open, and when everything cooled down, reset and charging would continue. Better than having to replace in line fuses all the time.
Can't say I've seen the behavior.
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Old 05-12-2016, 06:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Flapper View Post
My RV mechanic recommended an auto resetting circuit breaker in line with the OEM charger, when I converted to 2 6v. He said that the charger may attempt to initially push more amps than the wiring was designed for if the batteries were deeply discharged. The breaker would open, and when everything cooled down, reset and charging would continue. Better than having to replace in line fuses all the time.
Can't say I've seen the behavior.
Let me ask a question.. would you put automatic breakers in your house electrical service panel.. risking all your electronics, fridge....? I really do not think so. I would not install a breaker in my TT's main 12VDC supply line.. with a fuse you remove the power source from the circuit and you are well aware that something is not right, because you need to replace the fuse.. after a couple times you will start to trouble shoot the problem until you find the source of the problem. With a breaker, it will keep resetting and resetting until either the cause of the high amp load is either burned out or the breaker dies.

If you follow the 50% rule for the battery (battery voltage never goes below 12VDC) you will never encounter a high amperage charging cycle. Most, if not all of the newer TT's have a 30 - 45 amp SMART battery charge controller in them, they are timed so that it will only supply a high amp charge for a set amount of time and it will move to the next stage, and the wire that feeds the battery is sufficient to handle its output. I personally would remove the breaker and put a 30 Amp fuse back into the circuit. Having the fuse also helps when you take the TT in for repairs or if you leave it with no shore-power available, you just pull the fuse to disconnect the battery from the TT's electronics (CO alarm, Fridge circuit board, radio...), which eliminates a dead battery after about 5 days without a charge. A lot of members install a battery disconnect switch to isolate the battery from the TT's electronics/lights.

Two things I do not do are listen to an RV salesman regarding batteries, SOLAR or anything electrical... I will trust an RV mechanic for normal TT repairs, but that does not include battery knowledge or ANYTHING to do with SOLAR. But those are just my thoughts and observations and I did not intend to step on any ones toes.

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Old 05-12-2016, 07:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Dustdevil View Post
This is good info. Keep talking. I will soon be in the market for new house batteries for my Seneca. There is only space for two batteries size 31 (each 12"L X 7"W X 8-3/4"H) .
Two Group 31s is a lot of power ! The Trojan T-1275 is a smidge bigger than a standard Group 31 (13"L X 7W X 11H)


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Originally Posted by Dustdevil View Post
I might end up with AGM, but my charging system does not support the specific charging profile of a AGM battery.
I just don't understand why everyone wants AGM ! They cost more and store less energy. If "watering" your flooded cell battery is the issue, they do make "remote" watering kits. And yes, you should remove and clean a flooded cell battery at least once a year ! More often, if you are a "full time" RVer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevil View Post
I thought about 6v golf cart batteries, but it sounds as though the limited space makes that unlikely that it would have any advantage at all, and in fact might actually be a detriment, as I would likely need four of them to equal or surpass the power density of the 12 volt units.
If you are trying to beat 2 Group 31s, yes, you would likely need 4.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:15 PM   #19
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For me it's a venting issue.
The battery compartment in a 26.5rls is 24 inches long - but will only hold two batteries if I take out the vented white battery box and mount the batteries end-to-end.
I've looked and looked and looked for either 2 vented boxes that will fit end-to-end in 24 inches of space OR a single box. They make them for the big 6v. but they are too tall.

I think my only option is to use AGM (which doesn't require venting) OR build my own plywood vented battery box - which may be an option.

OR - just stop worrying about battery fumes - seems to be a huge debate about exactly how many fumes a batter gives off anyway - especially in a well vented (almost open underneath) compartment.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:22 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by theoldwizard1 View Post
I have never seen any documentation that the OEM charger is a 3 stage !

This is from the 2016 Jay Flight manual.

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