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Old 05-10-2012, 04:45 PM   #1
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Updated Reese HP Dual Cam Instructions

Reese Products updated their web site this week with the latest Reese HP Dual Cam Installation Instructions, Model #26002, Dated 2/18/12, REV. "L"., for the 2nd version of the Reese HP Dual Cam (silver finish).

2nd version of Reese HP Dual Cam (silver finish): http://www.reeseproducts.com/content...ion/N26002.pdf

It should be noted that Reese uses the same #26002 model number for both the 1st and 2nd version Installation Instructions, but they are designed and dimensionally different.

1st version of Reese HP Dual Cam (gold finish): http://www.truckspring.com/Installat...eese/26002.pdf

Original Reese Dual Cam (not "HP" version): http://65.196.229.70/pdf/N26001.pdf

It's important to confirm that the correct Installation Instructions are matched with the correct version of the Reese HP Dual Cam product, there are set-up dimensions and component differences. If in doubt, contact Reese @ 1-888-521-0510.

Bob
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:29 AM   #2
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Thanks for posting that Bob. I just installed mine today. The hitch I have is 5 years old. It has the round 1000lb. spring bars. I needed to set mine to 18 1/2 inches, otherwise I would of had trouble with the fit. The snap up brackets have a large quarter inch plate that goes down the outside frame rail. I don't know if I need to drill a screw hole for it on account of that. Later today I will take it for a test drive. I also think I'll add more of an angle on the hitch head so the spring bars will be closer to parallel with the frame rail. Bob, have you induced a sway in your trailer to test it?
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphie View Post
snip.......The snap up brackets have a large quarter inch plate that goes down the outside frame rail. I don't know if I need to drill a screw hole for it on account of that. Later today I will take it for a test drive. I also think I'll add more of an angle on the hitch head so the spring bars will be closer to parallel with the frame rail. Bob, have you induced a sway in your trailer to test it?
Richard,

Just curious, but I assume your Reese "HP" Dual Cam is the 2nd version "HP" based on your JOF thread referenced below.

In the latest Reese instructions REV "K" & "L" they do recommend the incorporation of a screw (at the snap-up bracket) on Jayco frames, and I contacted both Reese and Jayco on this added screw but neither gave me a clear explanation "why". In the past bolting (or screw) was recommended by Reese in cases of a heavy tongue loads (1,200lbs plus) on the standard WDH's (no Dual Cam) because the snap-up chain "moved" during TV turns which in some cases could move the snap-up bracket as well.

As far as the round spring bars parallel with the TT frame is ideal, but a "slight" downward angle is fine especially if it provides for better component clearances. The trunnion style spring bars can be set at a more aggressive downward angle do to the associated ball mount style.

I haven't induced sway, but have had a couple of driving conditions over the years (sudden strong crosswind, etc.) that I could "feel" the Dual Cam working at keeping the TV and TT traveling in a straight line.

If you get a chance, post some pics of your finished installation in your thread
here: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...highlight=dual. Would be a great visual aid for others installing their own Reese HP Dual Cam.

Bob
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:37 AM   #4
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Thanks Bob, I will crank up a real computer and post some picks in the next day or two. Yes I do have the 2nd edition. It's nice to know that after spending the money and time to install them that you can feel them working when needed.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:10 AM   #5
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I really don't see the point in bolting the snap up brackets to the frame. I have a 2012 308 RETS running the new HP dual cam setup without the snap up brackets bolted and they have not moved at all. The snap up brackets hold the chain which connect to the cams that are permanently fixed at length. How would the snap up brackets ever move in a turn when its the torsion bar which slides over the cam? I would agree that a regular WDH setup without the dual cam should be bolted on the heavier trailers because the angle of the chains do change from up and down in turns but they do not with the HP dual cams.
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin View Post
snip...... How would the snap up brackets ever move in a turn when its the torsion bar which slides over the cam?........snip
Merlin,

My best guess would be that it not so much that the snap-up bracket would move along the top surface of the TT frame, but there is the possibility of the snap-up bracket saddle bending over the top of the TT frame and pulling on the snap-up bracket lag bolt (see pic below). This would support Reese's instructions in requiring the single snap-up bracket screw be located closer to the top of the bracket (rather than using the two lower existing clearance holes in the snap-up bracket).

The Reese engineers must feel with the TT ball coupler mounted to the bottom of the TT frame it introduces some kind of added dimensional dynamic (compared to top mounted coupler) along with the stationary chain pull force on the snap-up bracket that it could compromise the snap-up bracket.



Bob
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:59 PM   #7
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Thought I would post some pics of the different versions of the Reese Dual Cam product:

Original Reese Dual Cam:



1st Version of Reese HP Dual Cam (gold):



2nd Version of the Reese HP Dual Cam (silver):



Special Note: I did run across a photo of a Reese HP Dual Cam that was gold in color and most of the components matched the 1st version HP, but the the gold "hanger bracket" had the slight bend in it like the one supplied in the 2nd version HP. The following photo is where I seen it:



One thing wrong in the photo is the hanger bracket is attached backwards on the cam arm (could have contributed to the bent snap-up bracket), and you can tell that the Cam Arm Yoke is of the 1st version HP. I have never run across any Reese Installation Instructions that reflected the "bent" hanger bracket with the 1st version HP gold components. Still a mystery.

Bob
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:02 PM   #8
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Of all the photos, I like the Craftsman bottle opener best. :hihi:
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:02 PM   #9
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....... and the most important Craftsman tool a guy can have in his tool box..., and guaranteed for life.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:41 AM   #10
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I'll drink to that!
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:40 AM   #11
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My 1200lb kit came with the heavy duty snap up brackets right out of the box from Reese.

My dads trailer was put on the scale when the light weight Jayco tongue had bent on it for warranty reasons and it was 1250lb, Jayco was at fault and paid to have everything repaired by a third party shop specializing in frame repairs and there hasn't been an issue since. He also has the regular snap up brackets like in the pictures above without any issues...I'll take my chances and run without more bolt holes through my tongue, I also use air bags on the truck so I don't have to run a lot of tension on my hitch setup.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:29 AM   #12
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Merlin,

Wow, having your dad's TT A-frame bend had to have been a scary sight , and great to hear that all is good now. I agree that the HD snap-up brackets are better suited with the heavier tongue weights in lieu of the standard ones. I also have the standard snap-up brackets (like your dad) with my 1,200lb tongue weight, but I did eventually bolt mine to the frame as a preventative measure.

In most cases I found that bent snap-up brackets were do to an installation error of the WDH and/or the snap-up bracket, the other cases were attributed to a heavy tongue weight. I do however agree with your reference to minimizing the amount of bolt holes going through the TT's A-frame, best to avoid if at all possible.

Just food for thought..; air bags will address rear TV 'sag', but won't reduce the amount of weight that needs to be returned to the TV's front suspension via the WDH adjustment.

Bob
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:19 AM   #13
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When the tongue bent up the propane tank cover wore a spot on the front fiberglass of his jay feather.

When I set up my WDH i measured all 4 wheel clearances empty then gradually started adding the trailer onto the truck with a bit of air until I got the truck back to normal. In the end my front is at the same height as unloaded and my rear is down 1/2" to make it at the same height as the front of my truck, my trailer also has a slight downward tilt to the front when hitched up. All said and done I run 50lb of air and am on the third link from the top of my chains without any squeaks or groans from the hitch or suspension, trailer pulls amazing and is 10 times nicer to tow then my old 25RKS in the wind or not (with an old half ton on top of that). I have pulled it twice without any air in the bags home from the dealer and it is not even the same trailer...It bucks and jars the truck on bumps, squeaks and groans in the turns, and pulls twice as heavy.
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:52 AM   #14
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Merlin, wow that sounded like a scary story having your dads frame bend up to the point the cover was rubbing on the fiberglass. 1250 pound tongue weight sounds high for a Jay Feather. Which one did he have? I haven't heard of any other cases like this. My trailer towed well before the dual cam kit. In the wind yesterday it was just as good.
One thing I did notice while getting ready to come home yesterday was that I needed to raise the truck and trailer a few inches in order for the chain link to fit on the snap up bracket. I couldn't pull the chain far enough by hand. I can also hear the the bars coming in and out of the cams when cornering in a parking lot. I guess this is to be expected. I was surprised to see how far out of the cam the inside bar goes when turning.
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:52 AM   #15
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I finally got my Reese HP DC WDH completed yesterday. It should have been done sooner but the last bug I hit was due to the longer shank causing my safety chains to be about an inch too short. So off to the store I went to buy a length of chain to correct this.

After a couple of strange noises (snap, crackle and pops), I concluded this must be the initial settling in of the spring bars on the cams, it settled down quite nicely and pulled very well. I've since done a little more fine tuning and I think I have it pretty darn close now. The front end is within 1/4" of the TV's measurement when unhitched and the trailer and truck look nice and level. Hopefully, I can get it over to the CAT scale today/tomorrow once we finish loading for the trip to get a true read on how things are.

Murphie, do you have round bars or trunnion? I don't have that problem with the chains being short. In fact, I have mine set on six links under tension, which leaves me three extra links.
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:03 PM   #16
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Mike I have the round bars and also use the 6th link under tension with 3 left over. When installing it yourself you get a feeling for what's right and how it should be. I have the heavy duty snap up brackets and will not want to drill another hole in the frame. I take it you have the trunnion bars?
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:57 PM   #17
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Yes, I have trunnion bars and the way I read the instructions, you only have to mess with the bolt if you have the couple that mounts under the frame. Did you happen to interpret it differently?
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
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snip.......One thing I did notice while getting ready to come home yesterday was that I needed to raise the truck and trailer a few inches in order for the chain link to fit on the snap up bracket. I couldn't pull the chain far enough by hand. I can also hear the the bars coming in and out of the cams when cornering in a parking lot. I guess this is to be expected. I was surprised to see how far out of the cam the inside bar goes when turning.
Murphie,

Raising the TT tongue jack on a level surface in order to engaged the spring bars should be a normal occurrence, if not then the WDH isn't adjusted properly (little, if any weight distribution). You may also find in an un-level ground condition you may have to raise the tongue jack higher then normal to engaged the spring bars, I have to do this with my TV/TT combination every time I hitch up when taking my TT in/out of storage.

Put a little grease in the spring bar/ball mount sockets, may take some of the noise away during TV turns, but don't put any oil/grease on the cam surface. Under heavy tongue weights and/or high spring bar ratings a little dab of Vaseline on the cam surface once in awhile helps.

You right about how far the spring bar can move along the cam surface...., and an aggressive TV turn in some cases may cause the spring bar to fall off.

Bob
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:05 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Merlin, wow that sounded like a scary story having your dads frame bend up to the point the cover was rubbing on the fiberglass. 1250 pound tongue weight sounds high for a Jay Feather. Which one did he have? I haven't heard of any other cases like this. My trailer towed well before the dual cam kit. In the wind yesterday it was just as good.
One thing I did notice while getting ready to come home yesterday was that I needed to raise the truck and trailer a few inches in order for the chain link to fit on the snap up bracket. I couldn't pull the chain far enough by hand. I can also hear the the bars coming in and out of the cams when cornering in a parking lot. I guess this is to be expected. I was surprised to see how far out of the cam the inside bar goes when turning.
He has the 31V, Jayco didn't dispute the weight when it was put on the scale. He was one of the first ones to have an issue with the tires rubbing in the fenders too and had to put a 2" lift in, Jayco paid for it at the same time as the tongue repair. A recall was only made about a year ago to have it fixed.

When I pin up I lower the trailer onto the ball only low enough to clip the coupler so the truck isn't squated yet and put on the torsion bars (by hand), never had an issue with not being able to hook onto the propper link doing it this way.

I have had the truck and trailer jack knived to the point where my bumber was almost touching the frame, the torsion bar never came out but there wasn't much bar left sitting on the cam. I can imagine the kind of damage that may occur should a bar come out under tension.
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