Water heater anode rod?

Sixontheroad · 10-19-2011, 08:37 PM

We just got our new trailer which I winterized this weekend. I went to drain the hot water heater and there is only a plastic plug where our other trailer had an anode rod installed. Do the newer trailers no longer need this or is this something I am supposed to add after market?

Thanks for any advice!

wrenchturner · 10-19-2011, 10:13 PM

I'm not familiar with your trailer. I have a 2002 Eagle Summit popup. I wanted to install a drain valve vise the plug. I found an anode rod with one installed. I inquired at Camping World as to the fit for an Atwood hot water heater. I was told the anorode is not required for aluminum ho****er heaters. Mine had the plastic plug also. I replaced the plastic plug with a brass fitting and drain valve. It was cheaper than the $15.00 anorode with the valve which was not needed, per Camping Worlds parts dept recommendation.

clutch · 10-19-2011, 11:00 PM

Our trailer has the plastic plug also. Our old Prowler came with the plastic and after 17 years the heater is still working. Our Montana had the anode rod and was 6 years old and all was good. I will not be shopping for a rod for this trailer.

wiscampsin · 10-20-2011, 06:16 AM

Our '08 came with just a plastic plug too. I don't plan on adding an anode rod either.

3'senough · 10-20-2011, 07:32 AM

I have a 2011 which has the 12 Gal Suburban and I have an anode. It was corroded pretty good last weekend when I pulled it. Might be worth a call to the manufacturer if installing one would harm or interfere with any internal components before doing so.

As far as not needing one. I think, and could be wrong here, but the anode comes into play when you are under electric mode when electrolosis is going to eat the inside of your tank. If you use mostly propane to heat your tank then some may last longer than others which could lead to different experiences and outcomes.

You do however have history working for you, in that this seems to be a long standing approach from this manufacturer and seem to be performing well even after years of use.

**norty1** · 10-20-2011, 08:07 AM

Suburban water heaters need an anode. Atwood water heaters do not.

Gma-n-Gpa · 10-20-2011, 08:29 AM

Interesting - think I'll fire off an email to Atwood (manufacturer of my water heater). Might be interesting to see what a manufacturer has to say..

**Crabman** · 10-20-2011, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norty1

Suburban water heaters need an anode. Atwood water heaters do not.

I believe norty has it nailed. The Atwood tanks do not need an anode due to their construction. Only the plastic plug.

Gma-n-Gpa · 10-20-2011, 09:14 AM

Absolutely correct - just got a reply from Atwood - "Thank you for visiting the Atwood Mobile Products, LLC website. We do not put anode rods in our tanks or recommend anyone putting one in because our tanks are aluminum and do not require them. I hope this clears things up."

Lady Fitzgerald · 10-20-2011, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3'senough

I have a 2011 which has the 12 Gal Suburban and I have an anode. It was corroded pretty good last weekend when I pulled it. Might be worth a call to the manufacturer if installing one would harm or interfere with any internal components before doing so.

As far as not needing one. I think, and could be wrong here, but the anode comes into play when you are under electric mode when electrolosis is going to eat the inside of your tank. If you use mostly propane to heat your tank then some may last longer than others which could lead to different experiences and outcomes.

You do however have history working for you, in that this seems to be a long standing approach from this manufacturer and seem to be performing well even after years of use.

You pretty much nailed it. Electrolysis caused corrosion doesn't come from using the electric element. It will happen even if you don't use the heater as long as there is water present. The purpose of the anode rod is to sacrifice itself by being more susceptable to corrosion than the tank and other components in the tank (an oversimplification of what happens but a flow of electricity is involved). A corroded anode rod should give one an idea of what would have happened to the tank, etc. had it not been there. It is a consumable that has to be inspected every so often and replaced before completely consumed. It does have to make electrical contact with the tank so it's not a good idea to use sealant on the threads unless it is impossible to keep it from leaking without overtightening the threads. Frequently checking the rod will help to prevent the threads from seizing.

Using a zinc or magnesium anode rod with an aluminum tank could actually cause premature corrosion of the tank.

29BHS ECO · 10-20-2011, 11:40 AM

I thought my drain plug had an anode so I checked it out today and and wa la-- I have a 10 gal (book says 6 gal) atwood mfg 8/9/09 with a anode. Now I don't mind the anode thing but I do mind having a tt,car, truck or anything else and not know what it is made up of. What else does our tt have that I don't know about, wether it be a plus or minus I like to know what I bought. Maybe I have the gold lined black water tank !!!!!!!!!!!. looks like a call to Jayco , with the vin and get a build sheet . VENTING LARRY

**Crabman** · 10-20-2011, 12:26 PM

Wow, I thought the 10 gallon model was reserved for the real big fancy rigs. Lucky devil. Are you sure it is an Atwood?

**norty1** · 10-20-2011, 06:43 PM

I never saw an Atwood with a anode. Good to follow up on that. I had a Atwood on my old rig and once the plastic plug blew out. I replaced it with a brass plug. If you replace the plug with a non plastic plug, do not use a steel plug as it can corrode and cause damage to the tank when removed.

Rustic Eagle · 10-20-2011, 10:02 PM

As mentioned, Atwood HW heaters are made of aluminum and are constructed so that there isn't any "dissimilar" metals coming in contact with the tank (no galvanic corrosion potential), thus the reason for the plastic plug. Even a brass plug/fitting threaded into the tank's aluminum threads can potentially created a reactive condition within the aluminum tank because they are not compatible metals within HW heater applications.

Also, you will notice the plastic plug has a hollowed out center (inside) that will collect sediment and should be cleaned, or just replace with a new plastic plug.

Just food for thought.

Bob

29BHS ECO · 10-21-2011, 07:06 AM

Jayco sent me a responce that says I have a 6 gal heater. I will go out later a double check, but the cat number on the inside of the heater says 10E which is 10 gal electronic start. I will not check for the "gold lined black tank" Larry ps I will also check the dealer for the possibilty that it was upgraded by them.

Gma-n-Gpa · 10-21-2011, 08:36 AM

Just checked by "Major Component Data Sheet" from my Class 2 (2011) The model number for the water heater is "GC6AA10E" According to the Atwood site - the 6 is the size the 10 is the revision number.

Sixontheroad · 10-21-2011, 07:10 PM

Thanks all for the responses. My unit is an Atwood which should be the aluminum as stated which is why no rod. Good to know! One less thing that you have to replace!

- Brock

29BHS ECO · 10-25-2011, 12:49 PM

Ya stupid me, I should have my glasses the next time I try to decepher a model number, It's a 6 gal, so now I will replace the rod w/ a plug. Larry

**norty1** · 11-07-2011, 07:43 PM

I drained my Suburban wh today mainly to inspect the anode. I quickly did not like the water running down the side of the rig so I devised a shield using a few 3/4 electrical conduit fittings. I flushed it out and only got minimum sludge. It has been in operation on and off for 4 months. I plan to re-install the anode and replace it in another 5-6 months.

**Crabman** · 11-07-2011, 07:46 PM

Hey norty, is that is a Suburban WH? Seems to me they are the ones that use the anode rods. OK on edit I see your title, it is A Suburban. Looks like the rod has eaten away somewhat. I like the drain tube idea.

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