Water Heater Question - Newbie Question

[MisterUg]

Ok,
We're getting ready for our first trip this wknd (in our 2011 22fb), I'm pretty confident with everything and how it works. But the Water Heater has me a little concerned. We haven't tested it yet, due to the angle the Trailer is parked at (we know we can't run the fridge on an angle, and wanted to be careful ). I can't for the life of me remember what he told us on our 2hr plus walk around when we picked it up .

I have 3 buttons on my control panel. One for the Water Pump, One for Water Heater Electric & one for Water Heater Gas, I've read all kinds of info it. I took off the outside panel and looked at it. I've even looked at the Neighbours X17. His is different in that he has a switch on the outside and has to light a pilot.

My question is, Do I just turn it on at the control panel inside?? Or is there some kind of pilot that I need to light on the heater itself??

Thanks in advance!

[SmokerBill]

Just flip the switch on the control panel and the flame will come on. When hooked up to AC shore power you can use the electric switch, or even use both the electric and gas switches if you're in a hurry for hot water.

As far as being level, I don't think it matters too much with the water heater.

[hammerdown]

I have the same TT, just turn it on you have an automatic pilot. Make sure the tank is full of water or you will burn out the electric element.

[Terry]

Being a little off level will not upset the water heater....it might cause the relief valve to weep a little bit, but dont worry too much about that - it is normal.

Biggest thing is to make sure your water heater is full of water before you turn it on. Double check the bypass valves are in the correct position (top and bottom open, center closed). Run the kitchen faucet and purge all the air.

As far as operation, it is so simple -- which is why you are scratching your head lol....

If you have city water, leave the water pump off....if you are on shore power and want to go electric - just flip the switch...wait a while and you will have hot water....if you want gas, do the same.

I generally leave mine on elec most of the time, but if multiple folks need a shower I flip on both elec and gas and it recovers a little quicker. I will also run gas sometimes when I first setup so our first round of hot water is ready quicker.

I would recommend you run it for a while on gas only just to give it a good test and make sure it is working properly. It really does not use that much propane in the big scheme of things. Since it is new, you might have some air in the gas line. If you turn it on gas, you should hear it click and try to light a few times. If it cant light because of air in the line, it will go into fault mode and there is a little round light that will appear on your control panel. No fear - just turn the gas switch off and then back on and it will go through the cycle again.


Enjoy that new camper!

[wiscampsin]

Your water heater has DSI = Direct Spark Ignition on LP.

[3'senough]

If this is new from the factory and your break in trip make sure the little black switch on the outside with the cotter pin in it is switched to the on position otherwise your electric element will not heat. That is there for winterizing so you can't activate it from inside by accident. Also if you or the dealer pulled the sacraficial element out to drain it make sure it's back in place tightly or you'll leak hot H2O.
Note all the other pointers mentioned above but most important is that you're full of H2O or you'll be replacing an element. Easiest way to check 100% is to presurize your system by either method and pull the blowoff until there's water flowing out and not when it's hot if you mistakenly turned it on already.

Tip: If you're at a full service facility you can run both electric and gas to get a faster recovery rate for showers.

Good luck and enjoy.

[Terry]

Originally Posted by 3'senough

If this is new from the factory and your break in trip make sure the little black switch on the outside with the cotter pin in it is switched to the on position otherwise your electric element will not heat. That is there for winterizing so you can't activate it from inside by accident. Also if you or the dealer pulled the sacraficial element out to drain it make sure it's back in place tightly or you'll leak hot H2O.
Note all the other pointers mentioned above but most important is that you're full of H2O or you'll be replacing an element. Easiest way to check 100% is to presurize your system by either method and pull the blowoff until there's water flowing out and not when it's hot if you mistakenly turned it on already.

Tip: If you're at a full service facility you can run both electric and gas to get a faster recovery rate for showers.

Good luck and enjoy.

Hey 3 -- are you thinking of a Suburban rather than an Atwood? I am not sure I have ever seen the cotter pin/switch you are referencing and the Atwood do not have the sacrificial rod, just a plastic plug.

Let me know if this is something new you are seeing on Jaycos.

[3'senough]

tafische, sorry for not being clear. It is a Suburban and I have had the 6 on the previuos TT (Keystone) and now the 10gal in my 5'er (Jayco). I was referring to the Suburbans failsafe switch on the outside of the unit that comes from the factory with a little cotter pin in it so you can't switch the unit on while the either the rod is out or tank is empty.
I have no experience with Attwoods so I can't help or advise there specifically except the blowoff test which you can do on all units.
Hope this helps clarify.

[Terry]

I didnt realize that Jayco was using Suburban in any of their models - learn something new every day on here! Was that factory standard or an option?

[3'senough]

Standard equipment on mine. No other options given and I think it is actually 11 gal.