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Old 07-11-2016, 02:06 PM   #11
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 196
I noticed that if you connect the city water without using a pressure reducer and the pressure is too high, it will over extend the internal check valve spring causing it to stick. (my bad). Then if you use the fresh water tank and try pressurizing the system with the pump it will just run with out building pressure because the check valve is open and will not allow it to build pressure. The check valve replacement part # Shurflo Check Valve 4008 Pumps 94-800-03

2015 Jayco Jayflight 24FBS
2013 F150 Super Crew 3.5, 3:31
2004 f150 Super Crew 5.4, 3:73 traded
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:09 PM   #12
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: East
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Originally Posted by Flapper View Post
If the pump was totally dry, you may not feel any air. These are for liquids, and do a terrible job moving gases. Not until you can get enough liquid in the system to push on the air will you feel anything coming out.

See if you can "prime" it by loading up the intake side with water via filling the hose used for sucking antifreeze up. Fill the hose, and hold it up to keep the water in (and give the water a bit of gravity assist) with the open end in a container of water, while someone opens a faucet and turns on the pump. (set the valves correctly, for this, of course). Then fairly quickly if it sucks in the water, turn it off, and switch the valve over to pulling from the tank.

These pumps are supposedly "self-priming", but sometimes....of course, if it needs to be primed again, then it's time to look closer at the guts - check valves (if any), diaphragms, etc.
Primed it and it's working so far. The grey hawk takes in antifreeze in the same location that you hook up city water. So, while connected to city water, I turned the valves to "winterize/sanitize" and turned the pump on til water came out of the faucet.

Thanks for the advice and everyone else's input!

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