1/2 ton Suburban -- gutless?

[Shedhorn]

Bought a 23mb TT this weekend. Approx 4400lbs dry and 6500lbs gvwr.

Towed it home with my 07 1/2 ton Suburban. It was gutless, even though I'm 2000lbs under max tow rating. Had a hard time going up hills that weren't even passes. Front end felt like it was floating.

Anyone else had experience towing with a similar burb? My trailer had no gear or fluids and the burb was empty except for me. I'm guessing the tow experience will be worse when all loaded.

I also have a 3/4 ton burb built much differently. Thinking about ditching the 1/2 ton, though since the burb is a daily runner for us, the gas bill will get worse if we do that.

[SouthCo]

1/2 tons are going to have to run higher RPM's to get up hills. It just the nature of the beast as that's where they make their power... I had a 1/2 ton pickup and sold it for the same reasons you mention...

[Shedhorn]

Originally Posted by SouthCo

1/2 tons are going to have to run higher RPM's to get up hills. It just the nature of the beast as that's where they make their power... I had a 1/2 ton pickup and sold it for the same reasons you mention...

I hear ya. I don't have much towing experience but I'm starting to see why most TTs -- even the smaller ones -- on the road in my neck of the woods are pulled by 3/4 ton or 1 ton trucks. It's just the **** when your tow vehicle needs to also serve as a runner and there are several kids in the equation. Not many choices and they aren't economical!

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by Shedhorn

Bought a 23mb TT this weekend. Approx 4400lbs dry and 6500lbs gvwr.

Towed it home with my 07 1/2 ton Suburban. It was gutless, even though I'm 2000lbs under max tow rating. Had a hard time going up hills that weren't even passes. Front end felt like it was floating.

Anyone else had experience towing with a similar burb? My trailer had no gear or fluids and the burb was empty except for me. I'm guessing the tow experience will be worse when all loaded.

I also have a 3/4 ton burb built much differently. Thinking about ditching the 1/2 ton, though since the burb is a daily runner for us, the gas bill will get worse if we do that.

Well, "gutless" would be function of the engine/transmission. Which engine does it have? If it has the 5.3V8, then a 3/4 ton with the 5.3V8 will be just as gutless. What tranny does it have? Ideally it would have a 4.10 or whatever GM's equivalent is.
Front end floating. I assume that means you either have no weight distribution hitch or it is not setup correctly. For a trailer of that weight on a 1/2 ton truck, I think a WDH should be used.

[Shedhorn]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Well, "gutless" would be function of the engine/transmission. Which engine does it have? If it has the 5.3V8, then a 3/4 ton with the 5.3V8 will be just as gutless. What tranny does it have? Ideally it would have a 4.10 or whatever GM's equivalent is.
Front end floating. I assume that means you either have no weight distribution hitch or it is not setup correctly. For a trailer of that weight on a 1/2 ton truck, I think a WDH should be used.

I left the dealer with a WDH installed. The burb is 5.3L V8 and the rear end is 3.73.

I believe the "floating" issue is also a function of the suspension, which in a 1/2 burb is built more for comfort than towing.

[rgchak]

I tow a '15 White Hawk 27DSRL (7500 lbs) with my '91 Ford Bronco (351W) which is a short, short F150. My total weight TV and TT is a little over 12K. Put 4K miles towing last summer including going through the Eisenhower Tunnel at 12,300 feet. I've, of course, made several changes to the old Bronco but the best bang for the buck was changing from the stock 3.55:1 differential gears to 4.56:1. As for your front end float I would recommend a set of rear air bags or a weight distribution hitch. I use "air lift" rear bags and because of my short WB I use the Pro Pride hitch which I swear by.

[wags999]

May want to check your cargo capacity also. Do you have the towing package? Your tongue weight on your trailer is going to be about 550 - 600 lbs, May have to adjust your WD, that should help with the front end floating.

[need-a-vacation]

Welcome and congrats on the new rig!!!

With the 5.3/4spd/3.73 (your sure you have the 3.73 gears? Verified per the glovebox sticker?) the motor will definitely need to rev as mentioned to get into the power band of the motor. It is the way the newer motors are designed.

What year is your 2500 Burb? If newer, the 6.0 (not a 5.3 in the 2500's) will do better. If you have the 6sod trans it would do even better as the extra gearing makes a big difference vs the 4spd trans models.

Front end float does sounds like the wdh needs some adjustment. Follow the links in my signature for a ton of wdh info. What pressure did you run the tires at when towing? I would suggest running the rear tires at max sidewall pressure, and possibly the front anywhere from the door jamb suggested pressure up to max. May need to try different pressures to find what feels the best, changing 5psi at a time.

With a 1500 truck/suv you do need to watch the available payload of the tv. All passengers, any cargo (coolers, firewood, etc), the wdh and the tt tw all count toward the payload rating listed on the yellow door jamb sticker of the tv.

If you get rid of the 1500 Burb, what about a more fuel efficient cuv or similar to go along with the 2500? How many family members total?

Good luck!!!

[max2bob]

welcome to the forum. keep in mind your engine is not producing the power it would if it were at sea level. none of my gas powered rigs ever towed that well up here, especially considering all the hills and wind. my last trip was basically uphill all the way and fighting a 35-40mph head wind , was running 17lbs of boost on the straights for a bit. anyways, have you considered a small cheap car for the commuter and keeping the 3/4 suburban for the towing? that's what I have and it works great and keeps the miles off the truck.

[Dustdevil]

The problem with a 1/2 ton is the drivetrain, the brakes, and the wheels/tires. If you are using a WD hitch and IT IS ADJUSTED PROPERLY, the Suburban should feel even more planted and stable than usual, because it is supposed to evenly distribute weight up toward the front wheels. Drivetrains in 1/2 tons usually have smaller displacement motors, lighter duty transmissions. That's antithetical to towing a load like a TT, but it's not a deal breaker. But the brakes. Yes, the brakes. The part everyone forgets. You may have TT brakes, but small brakes often fitted inside 15" wheels are not up to the task of stopping 10,000 lbs. While the Suburban will handle itself in 1/2 ton trim, it's still 6k lbs of heavy metal. Add 4000 lbs of trailer, and you have a system that is not sufficiently braked to stop itself safely, when there is better available. Get the 3/4 ton, ditch the 1/2 ton, bite the bullet, and live with the 3 mpg worse fuel mileage. It will reward you with much lower repair bills, less wear and tear, and safer travels.

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by Dustdevil

The problem with a 1/2 ton is the drivetrain, the brakes, and the wheels/tires. If you are using a WD hitch and IT IS ADJUSTED PROPERLY, the Suburban should feel even more planted and stable than usual, because it is supposed to evenly distribute weight up toward the front wheels.

The recommended way of adjusting the wdh has actually changed, approximately about 10yrs ago or so.

It is now suggested to only return the weight lost from the front axle once the the trailer is hooked up (without the wd bars).

Example:
tv only fa 3000lbs
tv w/ tt, no wd bars fa 2600lbs
tv w/ tt, w/ wd bars fa no more than 3000lbs

Some truck manufactures are now only recommending to return 25%, or 50% of the lost weight back to the front axle. From what I understand that is part of the reason the new(er) trucks have the fake that they do.

It is best to look in the owners manual to see what is suggested. Yes, there are some who still transfer more weight that what the tv only fa weight is, but having more weight on the fa can cause oversteer in an emergency handling situation. I honestly can not remember where I read the study, but it was either posted on RV.net or linked to from RV.net.

[NVGun40]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Well, "gutless" would be function of the engine/transmission. Which engine does it have? If it has the 5.3V8, then a 3/4 ton with the 5.3V8 will be just as gutless.

Not correct. Many 1/2 tons across all makes have the same engines as the 3/4 ton and 1 ton. 3/4 tons and up change to a different suspension, transmission, and overall drive train.
The 5.3's have a reputation for lacking power for the size engine they are, but nonetheless they do ok.

INHO, based on observations from many years of towing, hauling loads and RV'ing; it would seem many people are unwilling to sit back and have patience and be comfortable and let the vehicle do the work at its pace.

I have had many occasions of people driving a 1/2 ton towing a trailer the same size and even slightly bigger than mine, pass me on a hill because they don't want to drop speed down to 50MPH or possibly slower. Meanwhile, I sit with my 3/4 ton (manual transmission) not pushing the issue and pull the hill comfortably even as low at 45 MPH. That is not to say I don't have the power (I have on a rare occasion pushed it and topped out an a familiar grade at almost 70 MPH towing a full load; one which I would usually be down around 50 MPH).
I also go down the hills just the same. gear down and let the vehicle take the load how it will.
To me the proof shows in REQUIRED maintenance to the vehicle trailer. The factory clutch on my TV lasted to 183,000 miles. The brakes lasted till 200,000. My flat bed utility trailer was originally built in 1981 and with the exception of a complete new set of LED lights everything else is original.

To the original poster. If your suburban seems gutless and you are still well under the max weights. My opinion is: it's ok. Drop it a gear, sit back and tow at a rate comfortable for the vehicle so that you are not over revving. Whats the rush?