2014 Cherokee and X17Z, WDH, Tongue Weight... - Page 2

Jayshaw91 · 06-23-2015, 08:39 PM

Subaru, that's another fun issue. Cargo capacity - 1000lbs. So take off the tongue weight from that and we're maxed out.

Also, if you guys aren't familiar with the X17Z, there is VERY little space to store things behind the axle. The bathroom, an overhead cabinet, and some space on the floor are all you have.

After learning all of this, I did pull the trigger and get a Sierra 1500 4x4. Read between the lines... the X17Z is *gone* after this season.

Subaru297 · 06-24-2015, 09:16 AM

Congrats on the new truck! Let us know when Two-foot-itis gets you and you are looking for a 1 ton! Lol.....

Cheers

DocBrown · 06-24-2015, 09:27 AM

You will LOVE your Sierra! Congratulations!

Jayshaw91 · 06-24-2015, 10:21 AM

Subaru... what is this two-foot-itis you speak of?

DocBrown, do you have a suggestion on the ball receiver I'll need for the truck with the X17Z? Anyone have an answer? Bottom of the hitch is about 17.5 inches, I believe.

mike837go · 06-24-2015, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayshaw91

Subaru... what is this two-foot-itis you speak of?

It is a latent disease in all of us who own RVs. We struggle daily to try and suppress the symptoms. But every few years, The Disease wins and the RV dealer rings up another sale.

DocBrown, do you have a suggestion on the ball receiver I'll need for the truck with the X17Z? Anyone have an answer? Bottom of the hitch is about 17.5 inches, I believe.

The hitch on the trailer will be clearly marked with 1 7/8", 2" or 2 5/16". If not marked try and fit a 2" ball (it WILL be marked). If it fits well you have a 2" hitch. If it won't go in, you have an 1 7/8" hitch. If it goes in and falls out after you close the latch, you have a 2 5/16" hitch.

edit: Oh crap. You are talking about distance from the ground. Forget what I just said. It doesn't apply.

Jayshaw91 · 06-24-2015, 11:50 AM

Yeah, exactly. I know I need a 2" ball... but it's the receiver I'm asking about.

I was thinking on just buying a few, seeing which works, and returning the rest. However, if I can save a trip to the store and not need to return things, I'd prefer that.

DocBrown · 06-24-2015, 12:08 PM

I believe I had to buy a shank with a 6" drop. I'm hooking up tonight for a trip, I'll try and remember to measure it, but I may not be able to get back to you until early next week.

What year is your Sierra?

mike837go · 06-24-2015, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayshaw91

... but it's the receiver I'm asking about.

I was thinking on just buying a few, seeing which works, and returning the rest. However, if I can save a trip to the store and not need to return things, I'd prefer that.

I think the math goes something like this...

1) Level the trailer and measure the distance from the tongue to the ground.

2) Attach the trailer to the TV using a straight hitch adapter. Fully retract the jack.

3) Measure the trailer's tongue to ground distance. The difference in the two measurements is how much drop or rise you'll need.

Its been a while since I had to do it properly. I got real lucky on my last 3 WAG's.

Subaru297 · 06-24-2015, 01:32 PM

Two-foot-itis is the affliction of needing a slightly larger trailer than the one you already own. It can get expensive especially when you need to upgrade from the half ton to a 3/4 or 1 ton to pull those extra two feet!

6" drop shank is pretty standard and should cover most trailer/truck combos. Unless you are going to put a lift kit on your new truck.....then you will need to add a few inches. An underslung trailer coupler may require a bit more drop too. Not sure on that one though.

Jayshaw91 · 06-24-2015, 07:57 PM

Thanks again, guys!

Finally, I asked Google the right question. ETrailer says to do this. Thoughts? https://www.etrailer.com/faq-ballmount.aspx

Subaru297 · 06-25-2015, 09:47 AM

That will get you the right number. Keep in mind your truck will squat a bit though. But the shank you get should be adjustable anyway.

If in doubt get the slightly longer drop shank and you can adjust to suit your trailer hitch height.

mike837go · 06-25-2015, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayshaw91

Thanks again, guys!

Finally, I asked Google the right question. ETrailer says to do this. Thoughts? https://www.etrailer.com/faq-ballmount.aspx

Using their process, everything will line up fine until you put the trailer's tongue weight on your tow vehicle. Then your trailer will be nose low by the amount the TV sinks.

Measure the amount of sink and add it to any rise their calculations show, or subtract it from any drop called for.

Then round off to the nearest inch.

And never find the correct one at the store.

Subaru297 · 06-25-2015, 10:07 AM

One more probably obvious point.......

A drop hitch is also a rise if you just turn it upside down. Don't spend time looking for a rise if you need it.

Jayshaw91 · 06-29-2015, 06:55 AM

Numbers without sag:

TRAILER: Ground to bottom of tongue - 18 1/2"
TRUCK: To TOP of receiver: 19 3/8

So according to eTrailer, I need a 1" drop. Mike, you've got a good point that this doesn't take in to account any sag. I thought about that, which is why I posted and asked for thoughts.

If I get, say 1" of sag, then I really need a flat hitch, right? Just making sure I've got all of this straight. My plan is to buy 2 or 3 hitches and see which gets the trailer level/SLIGHTLY nose down.

Subaru, thanks for bringing that up. I read that somewhere, but it is really good info for the noobies to understand.

mike837go · 06-29-2015, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayshaw91

...snip...
Subaru, thanks for bringing that up. I read that somewhere, but it is really good info for the noobies to understand.

Remember, we were all n00bs at one time.

Jayshaw91 · 06-29-2015, 07:36 AM

Amen, bud! Mike, do you agree with my rough calculations? Anything I'm missing?

mike837go · 06-29-2015, 07:46 AM

Your calculations appear correct. Start with a straight hitch. Flipping it over gives you 2" rise.

Once you hitch up, with the full tongue weight of the trailer on your truck, re-measure everything.

Wait a moment...

Isn't this whole thread about a weight distributing hitch? The shank should be adjustable vs. the head in 1" increments.

Or have you decided to go with a simple ball hitch?

Jayshaw91 · 06-29-2015, 08:29 AM

Haha! Yes, that's where this started. I'm planning on getting a simple ball hitch for the Sierra to make things easy. I'm keeping the WDH for the future because the plan is, eventually (this fall?) to upgrade to a much bigger TT. I can do 800lbs tongue weight without a WDH, so unless we go REALLY BIG, I may not even need it then.

I'm not sure what sort of torque I need to adjust the bolt on the WDH shank, nor the tools (I don't think...), nor the time to take it to the shop, so buying a new hitch is what I've got in mind since we're travelling this weekend.

Cool, so I'll get a straight hitch which will give me a rise adjustment, and a 2" drop hitch in case somehow I can't use a measuring tape, figure out which is the right one, and return the other. Boom. Done.

...then learn what I've got to do for the WDH so I don't need to own 15 different hitches

Jayshaw91 · 06-29-2015, 11:00 AM

Aaaaand, of course the local auto parts store doesn't have a flat ball receiver. Yay!

mike837go · 06-29-2015, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayshaw91

Aaaaand, of course the local auto parts store doesn't have a flat ball receiver. Yay!

Stop with your injections of reality.

So he has to visit 2 Wal*Marts, a NAPA store and Auto Zone just to get the pieces. Then run out again because the nut is bigger than any wrench on hand.

Been there. Done that. Toooooooo many times.

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