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Old 04-16-2015, 07:13 AM   #21
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I would go with a hitch with built in sway control. Equalizer would be my choice and I would get the 12K bars.

Not sure if there is an aftermarket tuner that would allow OD lockout but if it did exist I would look into it.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:26 AM   #22
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I've had the round bar with chains systems. I prefer my Equalizer hitch. It has built-in sway control and is very simple to use - especially if you have an electric tongue jack (without is a little more work). No chains, and it prevents sway, as opposed to trying to control it. I've had mine for eight years and would recommend nothing else.

Just my opinion.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:07 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
I've had the round bar with chains systems. I prefer my Equalizer hitch. It has built-in sway control and is very simple to use - especially if you have an electric tongue jack (without is a little more work). No chains, and it prevents sway, as opposed to trying to control it. I've had mine for eight years and would recommend nothing else.

Just my opinion.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:02 AM   #24
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Any of the hitches with built in sway are better than the round bar type with friction bars. You would need two friction bars for your length of trailer.
It's much easier to use the WDs with built in sway. You only have to deal with two bars. if you get the round bar type you now have to deal with the two friction plates. I've used both types. JMO but I hated pinning up the plates in addition to chaining up.
I used the EQ for 2.5 years before we got our current 5th wheel. I does a good job but I just didn't like the noise and the grease. Others are quite happy with it so it's subjective I guess.


I've never used the Blue Ox Sway Pro but have heard good things about it. It's quiet and mostly grease free.

Bottom line skip the round bars and go with built in sway. If your friction plates wear out or break you're without sway control. With the built in sway it's always there.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:11 AM   #25
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Another benefit of a WDH with integrated sway control is that you can back up without having to disable the stand alone friction sway control.

I think about all the times I back my trailer (or potentially might have to back my trailer), like at a gas station, or if I get caught heading down the wrong road and need to turn around... on any given trip, and I can totally see myself forgetting to disable or re-enable my friction sway bars.
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:17 AM   #26
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Thanks again everyone for your input. Whatever I decide to do, I think you've convinced me that the Equalizer WDH is the way to go, even though it's twice as expensive as the more basic models.

I re-weighed the truck with a full tank of gas, by itself, it was 5940 lbs. Add in the WDH, myself and passengers, leaves us with about 740 lbs payload available. At 13%, 400 lbs of cargo in the trailer puts the tongue at about 690 lbs, so there's not a lot of room to play with.

I wonder if I should try to find something lighter but there's not much out there if you want rear bunks.
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:59 AM   #27
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Thanks again everyone for your input. Whatever I decide to do, I think you've convinced me that the Equalizer WDH is the way to go, even though it's twice as expensive as the more basic models.

I re-weighed the truck with a full tank of gas, by itself, it was 5940 lbs. Add in the WDH, myself and passengers, leaves us with about 740 lbs payload available. At 13%, 400 lbs of cargo in the trailer puts the tongue at about 690 lbs, so there's not a lot of room to play with.

I wonder if I should try to find something lighter but there's not much out there if you want rear bunks.
400 pounds of cargo in the trailer is VERY conservative. I would estimate that my pots, pans, and other eating/cooking gear. plus clothes, food and drinks in the fridge, and other things I have accumulated to be about 750# - conservatively. And remember, if you carry water in the tanks - water weighs 8.2#/gallon. With your 90 gallon tank (according to Jayco's specs), that is about 740#.

According to the specs for your 26BH, your hitch weight - at max GVWR - can be as much as 595#.

This is a conundrum. You will probably be OK for short trips, but might want to consider something smaller, or upgrading your TV in the future if you are planning any long trips.

And the Equalizer is a good choice. You can order it here, at RVWholsalers. This is the cheapest you will find it (10,000# bars): 10K Equal-i-zer Adj Hitch, without Shank - RVWholesalers.com RV Parts and Accessories

Hope this has helped. That's my intent.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:25 AM   #28
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No way you're just putting 400lbs of cargo in. I thought the same thing when we got our 1st TT. I was amazed at all the stuff we ended up taking. Our last TT we had 1000lbs added to the dry sticker weight. Now part of that was the propane, and one more battery.

We now pack between 1300-1500lbs in our 5th wheel. I guess cause we can. I think you'll find you'll take more than you think.
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:21 AM   #29
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Can we clarify one thing please? According to the Ford Towing guide the hitch is not included in the calculations. Is the 100# hitch PART of the tongue load? I could swear the people at Equal-i-zer told me that it wasn't but part of the trailer weight instead.

From Ford: Base Curb Weight + Cargo Weight + Passenger Weight + Tongue Load or King Pin Weight = Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)

hizenberg, have you looked at the X254? A little bit lighter and quad bunks. That's the one we just ordered. Our specs are GCWR-14,500, GVW 7100, GTWR 5995, Scaled Vehicle weight with all passengers 6300 and a payload rating of 1555#.
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:31 AM   #30
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Here's my opinion on it. If someone has to worry about 100lbs then they have too much trailer or not enough truck.


FWIW I've always been under the impression that anything that's added to the truck is payload. Where does the 100lbs go? Part of it may go to the TT axels and the other part may go to the front of the truck. All transferred weight. But if not much weight needs to be transferred then most will be on the receiver. Any weight on the receiver is IMO considered payload.
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Old 04-17-2015, 12:59 PM   #31
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I think you will be fine pulling that trailer although it will be close to the limits.

740lbs payload
4892lbs trailer + 1000lbs gear = 5900lbs loaded

590 up to 885lbs tongue weight range.

If you invest in a good hitch with sway control you can probably get away with 11-12% tongue weight (700lbs @12%). You may have to load up the bunkbeds while traveling to avoid some tongue weight. I would also remove your hardtop tonneau to get the extra payload. That is probably 75 to 100lbs.

I had a 2013 f150 with the 5.0 engine, 1400lbs payload and 3.55 gears pulling a 28bhs which has an extra 500lbs and 3ft extra length on the 26Bh. The truck did fine pulling that trailer but the wind did blow us around a bit. We were within 36lbs of our rear axle limit.
The reason we upgraded is that we knew that we would only be adding weight and stuff to the truck as our young kids grew up so we wanted the extra payload. The power to pull and stop our 6500lbs trailer was always there even with the 5.0 engine.

I don't think you will find a lighter trailer with bunk beds so you may just have to live with being at the limit and being careful. Is a hybrid an option?
The X23F has lots of beds... 2015 Jay Feather Ultra Lite X23F | Jayco, Inc.

Or upgrade your truck if possible.

Good luck with the decision.
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Old 04-17-2015, 02:03 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goducks View Post
Here's my opinion on it. If someone has to worry about 100lbs then they have too much trailer or not enough truck.


FWIW I've always been under the impression that anything that's added to the truck is payload. Where does the 100lbs go? Part of it may go to the TT axels and the other part may go to the front of the truck. All transferred weight. But if not much weight needs to be transferred then most will be on the receiver. Any weight on the receiver is IMO considered payload.

Reading the Ford towing guide closer it states " Maximum Loaded Trailer Weight (as shown in the
Trailer Towing Selector charts pages 16-21) is the
highest possible weight of a fully loaded trailer the
vehicle can tow, based on a minimum towing vehicle
GVW. It assumes a towing vehicle with any
mandatory options, no cargo, tongue load of 10-15%
(conventional trailer) or king pin weight of 15-25%
(fifth-wheel trailer), and driver only (150 lbs.).
F-Series Super Duty chassis cab models also assume a
second-unit body weight of 1,000 lbs. Weight of
additional options, passengers, cargo and hitch must
be deducted from this weight.
"

For some of us we need to get by with what we have. That extra 100# on the tongue makes a huge difference. We need to know that we can do it and do it safely even if it means it may be close. I'm sure most people can't upgrade both a truck and a trailer at the same time so one will always be catching up with the other.
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Old 04-17-2015, 07:59 PM   #33
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My 26BH was #5800 fully loaded. Water tank in that trailer is fairly far forward so don't carry much water.

I pulled this trailer with a 06 Tundra with a 4.7 litre engine, which was working pretty hard for it's living on the hills, and had a GCVWR of #12500.

You should be fine with your truck, and I am very conservative.
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