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Old 04-13-2016, 10:05 AM   #1
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Did all my measuring.........

Ok did all measurements and here where I am at......thoughts?

2001 Toyota Tundra

(forgive me that I am not a math person and do not know how to read a tape measure ha ha ha)

Front wheel wells unhitched 34"+ 6 lines and 34 1/4"
Front wheels hitched no WDH 34 3/4"+1 line and 35"
Front wheels with WDH 34"+3lines and 33 3/4"+ 1 line

Rear unhitched only measured 1 tire 36 1/2"
Rear hitched no WDH measured both 33 3/4"+ 2 lines and 34"+ 2 lines
Rear with WDH 35 1/2"+ 2 lines and 35 1/4"

Does this look about right? My spring bars are hooked up with only 1 chain hanging free and 8 links under tension.

Height of the top of coupler with trailer level is between 18"- 18 1/2"
top of ball is 19 1/2"

All looks level
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:38 PM   #2
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Based in your front wheel well measurements, it looks like you are actually transfering more weight back to the front axle with the wd bars latched up be no trailer hooked up. Generally the front wheel well measurement should not be less with the trailer hooked up with the wdh vs the truck only.

It could be the way the truck suspension "settled". A trip to the CAT Scales will tell you for sure.
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:35 PM   #3
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X2, you may have actually put more weight than stock on your front wheels. It certainly looks good.
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Old 04-13-2016, 03:00 PM   #4
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X2, you may have actually put more weight than stock on your front wheels. It certainly looks good.
So what do I do now?
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Old 04-13-2016, 03:01 PM   #5
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Based in your front wheel well measurements, it looks like you are actually transfering more weight back to the front axle with the wd bars latched up be no trailer hooked up. Generally the front wheel well measurement should not be less with the trailer hooked up with the wdh vs the truck only.

It could be the way the truck suspension "settled". A trip to the CAT Scales will tell you for sure.
So what do I do now? Is this a bad thing?
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Old 04-13-2016, 04:15 PM   #6
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Try latching up the wd bars on the last chain link (the one hanging free) and see how the measurement is compared to the tv only measurement. You should remeasure the unhooked height also unless the truck and trailer are still sitting in the same spot as when you measured earlier.

If the front wheel well measurement is about the same, or slightly more than the unhooked measurement, then a re-adjustment of the wdh may be needed, or just "ran" on the last chain link.

With your ground clearance issue though I do see a new wdh system in your future.

As for being good or bad, it used to be that you wanted "equal drop" for both the front and rear fenders. Or slightly more in the rear than the front. About 10yrs ago (or so) both the auto and hitch manufactures started suggesting only restoring the lost weight back to the front axle. Meaning if the front axle "lost" 200lbs when the trailer was hooked up (but before latching up the wd bars), you want to "restore" the 200lbs. Reason from what I understand is having more weight on the front axle (with the trailer hooked up vs tv only) could cause an oversteer situation in an emergency maneuver. Meaning the tv ends up steering more than you wanted, which can cause a jack knife situation when towing. Having understeer is said to be a safer situation when an emergency situation may happen. Hopefully this makes sense! Lol
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WDH SET UP. HOW A WDH WORKS. CAT SCALE HOW TO.
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Old 04-13-2016, 04:23 PM   #7
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Try latching up the wd bars on the last chain link (the one hanging free) and see how the measurement is compared to the tv only measurement. You should remeasure the unhooked height also unless the truck and trailer are still sitting in the same spot as when you measured earlier.

If the front wheel well measurement is about the same, or slightly more than the unhooked measurement, then a re-adjustment of the wdh may be needed, or just "ran" on the last chain link.

With your ground clearance issue though I do see a new wdh system in your future.
I called Reese tech support and basically all he did was send me an email with the proper installation instructions. Not very helpful seeing I do not know what I am doing to begin with. This is ridiculous. Can't I just keep it as is? What will it hurt? We are only talking 1/4 of an inch. Will adding or removing a washer in the hitch head make any difference? My ball is completely straight with barely a tilt at this moment. Look at this pic.
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Old 04-13-2016, 05:38 PM   #8
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Watch this video it may help answer a few questions you have.

https://youtu.be/mkewkvU8Ot8
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Old 04-13-2016, 05:39 PM   #9
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lukenick1, you are having quite the adventure with your hitch! I believe you are pretty close with your set up. Your rig looks pretty level in that pic.
I would try removing one washer which will decrease the angle/tilt a little more and put just little less weight to your front axles. One washer might just be the right adjustment for that 1/4" that your over. Don't get too worried about the angle/tilt of your hitch. The main purpose of changing the tilt is to fine tune your weight transfer. After you have removed the washer you may even find that you will use the third link (two links hanging free) to get the proper set up. Play around with having it on the second or third link and see what happens.
I know from your other thread that the main culprit for your troubles is the bottom mount coupler with the round bar wdh, but it will work and I think you almost got it.
Taking measurements tell you that you're close, but get to a scale and you will confirm that it's set up right.
Ps. If someone hasn't already mentioned it on your other thread, I think you need a 5/32" pin for the ones you lost on your latches.
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Old 04-13-2016, 05:55 PM   #10
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lukenick1, you are having quite the adventure with your hitch! I believe you are pretty close with your set up. Your rig looks pretty level in that pic.
I would try removing one washer which will decrease the angle/tilt a little more and put just little less weight to your front axles. One washer might just be the right adjustment for that 1/4" that your over. Don't get too worried about the angle/tilt of your hitch. The main purpose of changing the tilt is to fine tune your weight transfer. After you have removed the washer you may even find that you will use the third link (two links hanging free) to get the proper set up. Play around with having it on the second or third link and see what happens.
I know from your other thread that the main culprit for your troubles is the bottom mount coupler with the round bar wdh, but it will work and I think you almost got it.
Taking measurements tell you that you're close, but get to a scale and you will confirm that it's set up right.
Ps. If someone hasn't already mentioned it on your other thread, I think you need a 5/32" pin for the ones you lost on your latches.
I had the local RV service company order me the Reese replacement pin and it is 3/16" and I have been trying to stick 1/4" pins through it. No wonder they didn't fit. I hope it's finally the right one. We shall see when I get it. Keep fingers crossed!!!
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:35 PM   #11
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Lukenick1: you're doing great with your WDH in the future when loaded you might want to do more tuning, but I would drive it first for a while before you do more adjusting. Start enjoying camping with your kids, they will grow up faster than you think.
Get a couple of spare pins for the clips on the Hitch head too (where the bars goes in)
You can loose them and without them the bars won't stay.
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:38 PM   #12
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Lukenick1: you're doing great with your WDH in the future when loaded you might want to do more tuning, but I would drive it first for a while before you do more adjusting. Start enjoying camping with your kids, they will grow up faster than you think.
Get a couple of spare pins for the clips on the Hitch head too (where the bars goes in)
You can loose them and without them the bars won't stay.
Thank you ALJO...you are right, I am stressing over this so much. I just want to enjoy. Which pins for the hitch head are you referring to? My bars lock up in place by pushing them up. I have the Reese Pro Series 49902
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:49 PM   #13
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Do you guys think I even need to use the WDH? I'm not that off based on my measurements hitched with it.
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:58 PM   #14
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Yes it is a nice Hitch setup. The hitch head has to chrome springs on them and those little pins you can loose. Beautiful house on the back ground, but your TV-TT setup looks nice.
When raising my family when the camping season started, every Friday at noon we picked up the kids from school and went camping. I had my own business so I could set my own time.
Hope this is my last Jay Feather I putting a lot of work into it to make it a 4 season unit.
I love doing it (just warned my body not to complain) and at least when I do it I know things are done right. Can't believe how the RV mfg's can get away with things they do.
Seems in the 70's and 80's quality was better (also smaller mfg's who built them).
Now it is al greed and poor workmanship. But ehfin we have to live with it.
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:02 PM   #15
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Ok thanks.....didn't realize those could fall out. I must admit I have a heck of a time locking in the spring bars, I don't have the arm strength to jam them up into it. ha ha Also, should I always lower my jack foot onto a wood block or brick? Does doing that give me more height to jack up the back of thee truck?
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:13 PM   #16
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Ok thanks.....didn't realize those could fall out. I must admit I have a heck of a time locking in the spring bars, I don't have the arm strength to jam them up into it. ha ha Also, should I always lower my jack foot onto a wood block or brick? Does doing that give me more height to jack up the back of thee truck?
You are using the cheater pipe that gives you leverage when you're locking in the spring bars, aren't you? And since you most likely are, if you want to make it easier to lock in, after connecting the hitch to the truck, lower the tongue jack and lift the tongue up. It'll make locking the WDH spring bars into place a whole lot easier.

And don't forget to raise the tongue jack and remove the foot before you drive off.
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:18 PM   #17
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Just use one flat wood block (12 x 12 x 4] for safety. Wood is soft and the jack pad will dig into the wood a little. Never use 2 pieces wood under the jack as they might slide when the trailer moves. For the bars try using a longer handle or eat more spinach's.......lol.
When my daughter lift the bar I have an extended insert what makes leverage for her easier. As long I still can put my 95 lbs. generator on the tailgate I don't need the extension yet. Just make things easy for yourself.
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:35 PM   #18
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Just use one flat wood block (12 x 12 x 4] for safety. Wood is soft and the jack pad will dig into the wood a little. Never use 2 pieces wood under the jack as they might slide when the trailer moves.
If the wheels are properly chocked, the trailer shouldn't move. If it does, then that is a safety issue. Once The tt is leveled side to side, the next thing that should be done is the wheels chocked, 2 chocks on each side. Then the tv can be unhooked from the tt.

Using blocks under the jack is fine. Have a few different combinations that will work with various camp sites. Some may be sloped some, and you need to raise the tongue higher. Some may be sloped where you need to drop the tongue almost all the way on the ground. Depending on the site, I will use a 4x6, a 6x6, the 6x6 (or a 4x6) sitting on 2-4x6's: the 4x6's on the ground next to each other with the 6x6 (or 4x6) on top. Or maybe just a 2x6 if that is all that is needed once unhooked to level the trailer without extending the jack very high. All are about 10" long. Just don't stack so many that you can't lower the tongue enough to level the trailer.

You will want the "base" to be wider than the top. Don't stack a 4x4 on top of a 4x4 for example.
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:37 PM   #19
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If the wheels are properly chocked, the trailer shouldn't move. If it does, then that is a safety issue. Once The tt is leveled side to side, the next thing that should be done is the wheels chocked, 2 chocks on each side. Then the tv can be unhooked from the tt.

Using blocks under the jack is fine. Have a few different combinations that will work with various camp sites. Some may be sloped some, and you need to raise the tongue higher. Some may be sloped where you need to drop the tongue almost all the way on the ground. Depending on the site, I will use a 4x6, a 6x6, the 6x6 (or a 4x6) sitting on 2-4x6's: the 4x6's on the ground next to each other with the 6x6 (or 4x6) on top. Or maybe just a 2x6 if that is all that is needed once unhooked to level the trailer without extending the jack very high. All are about 10" long. Just don't stack so many that you can't lower the tongue enough to level the trailer.

You will want the "base" to be wider than the top. Don't stack a 4x4 on top of a 4x4 for example.
My trailer always moves/shifts when I take it off the ball. Am I not chocking right? Do I have to kick them under tightly or something? I just have the light weight yellow plastic chocks. I worry I will break or bend my tongue jack.
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:50 PM   #20
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A little movement can happen, but it shouldn't be very much. "Knock on wood" I have never had enough movement that caused the board(s) under the tongue jack to move.

When I set my wheel chocks, depending on just how the tires are sitting on the board, I will set one chock down on each side, either behind the front tire or in front of the rear tire. I then move the trailer "into" the wheel chocks some, set the parking brake and either my boys or wife will set the other wheel chocks into place. I then release the parking brake, and put the truck in neutral, allowing the trailer to "settle into" the wheel chocks.

If the chocks are "hollow" on the underside, look into getting a better set. Those will collapse after some time. Even quicker if setting up like I do.

Hope that makes sense.
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