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Old 08-14-2014, 08:41 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Hitch Pin View Post
Looks to me like the truck is nose high and the trailer is nose high. The truck and trailer in the picture are not parallel with the ground. If the rig was level it would be parallel with the ground, even if it is setting on a slope.

Not level with the asphalt and looks way out of kilter. Something is definitely not right. No matter the angle of incline, just looking at the asphalt and the bottom of the truck and trailer shows it is not parallel to the asphalt. Hopefully, that is a weight distribution hitch and adjustments can be made. Looks like the ball needs dropping almost a couple inches but you need to measure to make sure.


Joe Hinson
2010 Jayco Quest G2(SOLD)
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
"IF" the WD is adjusted correctly, he would not want to increase the tension on the bars and add addition weigh to the front end. That would add additional weight and could lead to premature front end component and tire wear. Conversely, if less than the required amount of weight is transferred, the truck could experience handling issues on slick roads.
Once the weight transfer is correct, the appropriate way to raise the rear end is with bags or helper springs. If those are added the WD adjustment has to be done again, as changing the height of the rear of the truck changes the tension on the bars and the amount of weight transfer.
+1 This is right on. Always remember that it's not about leveling the truck, it's about transferring weight. When you go to set it up again, make sure your trailer is level front to rear to start with. When adjusted correctly, most trucks SHOULD drop the rear 1 maybe 2 inches. Most trucks have a 1-2" rake from front to rear, so this works out to a level truck. HOWEVER, with softer suspension in the rear such as is sometimes found in off road applications, or if a leveling kit has been installed (to bring the front level with the rear under unloaded conditions for cosmetic purposes) it could be more. Then you have to turn to something else to raise the rear a bit, and start the hitch adjustment process again. If your rear end sags too much naturally, but your weight is distributed correctly, the danger you're facing is that your headlights are pointed too high. So you can adjust your headlights (I wouldn't do this because I drive too much empty) or add suspension components to the rear. I prefer Roadmaster Active Suspension, but Helwig makes some nice products as well. I don't particularly care for air bags.


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Old 08-14-2014, 10:49 AM   #23
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Depending on the WDH you are using, the instructions might be different,

But for EqualIzer, one of the things they say to do is

Measure top of front wheel well when unhooked, measure again when TT on ball but no WD bars installed, then measure same height with the bars installed

If you get 26" unhooked, then 32" without the bars, you should get anything between 26" and 29" once you have the WD bars installed.

It is almost impossible to get the PERFECT WD setup, but the goal is to remove half or less of the lift that you get when you put a TT on the hitch without the WD bars installed.
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:43 PM   #24
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That was a good video. Thanks for posting it.
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:38 AM   #25
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Yesterday, I pulled my TT to a level parking lot and used the Reese manual, stepped through the process of measuring to see if everything is properly adjusted. Prior to doing this, I fueled the truck up to add the extra weight, and I had the storage compartments filled with their usual belongings. I documented all as-found and as-left measurements. In summary...

- When the bubble is centered between the lines on my TT, I learned that it DOES NOT represent a level trailer. I leveled the TT by measuring from the TT frame (front and back) to the ground as recommended by the manual and numerous other sources. After doing this, I noted that the bubble hugs the right line (as if it's sitting low at the hitch end). From now on, I will level my TT by adjusting the bubble to hug the right line. I guess sitting a 3 foot bubble level on the floor inside the TT wouldn't be a bad idea either.

- The ball, as found, was indeed too high by a few inches. I had to drop the ball assembly to the next hole down to get it within the correct height range, and had to slightly angle the ball so the trunion bars were within the correct distance to the ground.

- After making all adjustments, tightening everything up, connecting to the truck, completely connecting the hitch system as if I'm ready to hit the road, I re-checked the height of the truck from the front wheel well to the ground and the rear fender well to the ground. The rear of the truck lowered very slightly (1/4") and the front of the truck remained at the same height that it was at when not connected to the trailer at all.

It was a good feeling to get everything adjusted. The reality is, I can spend all day splitting hairs with tweaking things, but depending on what type of trip I am taking, I will be packing a little different each time, so it's simply not an exact science.

Given the measureable adjustments I had to make, and results of those adjustments, I will feel much better when I pull out for our next camping trip. Thanks for everyone's input!!!
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:59 AM   #26
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Sounds like a good adjustment to me. When I set up at the CG, I level by putting the level in the middle of the floor in front of the fridge. The fridge is really the only appliance that is level critical for operation and you are still allowed 5 degrees which is really a lot when you think about it.
My bathroom door is also a good test to see how well I did. If it stays where I put it when I open it and doesn't try to swing open or shut, I call it good and move on to other chores. I do set just high enough in the front so that the runoff from the AC goes to the rear where no one walks around.
Kudos to you for taking the time to do it right.

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