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Old 08-08-2012, 03:46 PM   #1
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Fastaway E2 Sway Control Bracket Problem

I was coming home from my second trip out and about a mile from the house I hear a loud pop when I made a turn. Everything handled fine, and no vibrations, and I did not see anything in the mirror so I went on home. After backing the camper in place I sat down on the porch to rest a minute. When I looked over, I seen one of my bars laying on the ground. I thought I might have lost on of the L brackets, until I went over for a closer look.

The sway bracket was shoved back on the frame on ****ed up at a funny angle. I don't think it bent the frame, it will be Saturday when I get a chance to work on it.

Everything was tight when I left, and rode well.

Does this happen this hitch often?

I wanted a Reese Cam system when I bought it, but the dealer said that hitch was too heavy for my 19H and could bend the frame.

I thought about putting locktite on the bolts when I get it straightened out. I don't want it to slide around again, and have to take off the locktite.


I just downloaded the manual, and it looks like the dealer may have installed it incorrectly, I need to get in for a closer look.

http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e2...0710_small.pdf

Sorry for the bad pic, my camera was fogging up from coming out of the AC.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #2
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Unfortunately I'm not that familiar with the E2 WDH and/or it's proper mounting/set-up requirements, but I have heard of the "L" brackets coming loose at times, but normally associated with the heavier tongue weight applications.

Also, your dealer's comment that the Reese HP Dual Cam would be to heavy (or bend the frame) is incorrect. Both the E2 WDH and Reese HP Dual Cam WDH require a minimum 400lb tongue weight to function properly, and they both offer a 600lb and 800lb rated WDH. Any WDH could potentially compromise a TT frame if not properly selected, installed, and/or adjusted (as you are finding out).

I do have a couple of questions:

* In your pic where is the bottom frame bolt that goes through the link plates?

* What did you find in reviewing the product manual that suggested it may not have been installed correctly?

I'm sure some "E2" members will chime in shortly.

Bob
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Old 08-08-2012, 06:35 PM   #3
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I have not had any problems with mine. I have the e 2 round bar 1000#. Checking the distance measurement is where I would start. And while hooked up, were bars somewhat level, or angled up?
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Old 08-08-2012, 06:51 PM   #4
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I had the same slippage problem. You will find my solution in this thread at posting #8. I've done a couple thousand miles of towing since the fix, and had no more problems.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...ight=equalizer
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Old 08-08-2012, 06:54 PM   #5
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Thats a good idea. I Think I will add that to the list. Thanks.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:25 PM   #6
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We have same one. Just checked and we are good. My hubby asked, "why would they only use one bolt?"
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:39 PM   #7
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If you're asking why I added only one bolt........the bolt anchors the center point of the clamping plates, and there is enough friction generated by the clamping action of the top and bottom bolts to prevent the plates from rotating around that new center bolt.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:42 PM   #8
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Check this out... hope it helps

Equalizer Failure - Aditional Precautions to Avoid Failure
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:45 PM   #9
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Well, when you look at the manual on correct and incorrect, they show slightly different pictures. I think installation is fine. It just worked loose. According to the manual, they need to be tightened every 100 miles, and after a while, they will stop working loose. So, I guess its my fault for that one.

The problem with adding a bolt is drilling the frame. That voids the warranty, along with welding the plates to the frame. I have had this unit since May, and this was its second trip out, besides the tow home from the dealer.

The bottom bolt does not go through the outside plate. It actually has a plate that sits on a plate.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/attachmen...9&d=1314210795

Borrowing this image from HealthI you can see what I am talking about. The outside plate is pushed out on the bottom by the bolt head. Tomorrow when I get home from work, I will get better pictures.

When I checked the other side, the outside plate was loose on it too. I could move it with my foot.

I guess the good Lord had his hand on my should and this did not happen cruising down the interstate.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:47 PM   #10
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Actually, should have added... we haven't had a single problem since the above 'fix'
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:05 PM   #11
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I thought Jayco said drilling the frame voided the warranty on it, at least on the Jayfeather series?
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKong View Post
Well, when you look at the manual on correct and incorrect, they show slightly different pictures. I think installation is fine. It just worked loose. According to the manual, they need to be tightened every 100 miles, and after a while, they will stop working loose. So, I guess its my fault for that one.
My experience was, that no amount of tightening of the two original bolts, would stop the slippage from happening. Tried that a dozen times before doing my "fix". There is more than enough "beef" in my tongue frame that one bolt hole in the middle is not going to weaken it. The working stress in the tongue is along the top section (under compression) and bottom section (under tension) of the frame member. The middle section is neutral. Welding is another matter. The heat from welding could introduce a problem.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David472 View Post
My experience was, that no amount of tightening of the two original bolts, would stop the slippage from happening. Tried that a dozen times before doing my "fix". There is more than enough "beef" in my tongue frame that one bolt hole in the middle is not going to weaken it. The working stress in the tongue is along the top section (under compression) and bottom section (under tension) of the frame member. The middle section is neutral. Welding is another matter. The heat from welding could introduce a problem.
Not sure if you saw the post #8 and 10 ... but there is a fix that doesn't require welding that Jayco will waranty per Equalizer if you purchased your hitch when buying the tt. We've traveled 5k miles at least since that 'fix' with no probs

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:00 AM   #14
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Thanks, yes I bought it when I got the TT. I will ask about it when I call the dealer today.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKong View Post
snip.....The bottom bolt does not go through the outside plate. It actually has a plate that sits on a plate.........anip
I was aware that the two link plate bolts didn't pass through the outside plate, but based on the install instructions and the height of the TT frame I thought one would have seen the bottom bolt head visible through one of the outside plates lower clearance holes....... must have been the angle of the photo.



Bob
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:05 AM   #16
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Nope, I looked at the other side, and the bottom bolt is below the hole on the outside plate.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:49 PM   #17
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I just got off the phone with Fastaway on this one, and they told me to put a shim between the frame and bottom bolt to ensure there is no gap between the frame and the bolt. I guess I will give this a try.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:13 AM   #18
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Ok, decided to wash the house down last weekend, and me dealer can't do anything till the 30th, so I just got around to working on it.

There is a gap of over 2 inches between the bottom bolt and the frame. When I got the tape measure out, the brackets were mounted 26" from the back of the ball to the two bracket bolts. With all the sharp turns here in WV, that may have been a little to far back. The manual said 24"-27" back on the mounting. So I moved both to 25" to give me a little more bracket under the arm. The 3/4" nuts on the brackets are slim. They don't fully seat in a good box end wrench, and I believe they are designed to round off before you over torque them. That resulted in a few busted knuckles lol.

The more I think about it, and look at it, I don't like this design of this hitch at all for my TT. The instructions say keep the plates vertical, and don't let them bow while tightening. Without a shim out of the box on this camper, that is not possible. You won't be able to get it tight enough to keep it from slipping without having a bow in the plates. I don't want to use wood shims, because they get soft and rot.

Without drilling the frame, as much as they like to advertise it, you can not get a safe and stable hitch mount on a TT period. Next weekend, I am taking it back to the dealer for other problems for warranty work. I wanted the Reese system when I bought the TT. I already have half of it sitting in my workshop. All I needed was the cams, and the chain mounts installed. I already have the trunion bars, and hitch head. The dealer did not want to do this, something about drilling the frame, and the hitch was overrated for the TT frame and could bend it. I really hope they can do something to fix this, Summit RV if you are reading this.
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