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Old 06-01-2017, 09:13 AM   #1
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Feeling a little nervous

I did a lot of homework regarding towing capacity before I bought this new camper. I browsed the threads on here and did a lot of internet searching. Being a total newbie to towing something this large, I can’t help feeling like I’m missing something.

My truck is a 2013 F150 4x4 Supercrew with a 6.5’ bed, 5.0 liter V8, a 3.55 axle ratio and, of course, a towing package.

I haven’t weighed it yet, but the curb weight is “supposed to be” 5,586 pounds. Based on my homework, that is supposed to be with a full tank of gas. I’ll have to weigh it to get an accurate weight.

The towing capacity for this truck is 7,500 pounds.

According to Jayco’s specs on the 2017 26BH, the tongue weight is 525 pounds and the dry vehicle weight is 4,805 pounds.

The water heater and two tanks hold 90 gallons of water. That’s around 750 pounds.

So, based on the idea that the listed curb weight is close, the gassed up truck and the trailer loaded with water should weigh 11,141 pounds.

The GCWR for my truck is 13,500. Without any gear, I’m 2,359 pounds below the limit.

The towing capacity is 7,500 pounds, and the trailer filled with water and no other gear is 5,555 pounds. That’s 1,945 pounds below the limit.

I’m assuming that the weight of that heavy weight distributing hitch gets added to the weight of the truck, right? That’s probably around 80 – 100 pounds.

So here are the questions that I have for you:

Where would you draw the line on cargo weight that I could safely add to this load? On an average hunting excursion, I would guess that I carry between 300 to 500 pounds of gear.

If I were making a hunting trip alone and had to carry my 600 pound ATV in the bed of my truck, would it be safe?

I assume if I did put the ATV in the bed,I would have to totally readjust the weight distribution hitch, right?
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Old 06-01-2017, 09:22 AM   #2
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Your biggest limiting factor is going to be the trucks Payload which you will find on the sticker on the drivers side door jamb. (it says total weight of Cargo and passengers should not exceed...) Post back what that number is and a better answer can be provided.

Also, the weights listed in the campers brochure are never accurate - The sticker on your camper is the "As Shipped weight" and what you need to use for your calculations.
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Old 06-01-2017, 09:43 AM   #3
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I can check the sticker later, but according to Ford specs the GVWR is 7,350 pounds and the max payload is 1,764 pounds.
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Old 06-01-2017, 10:03 AM   #4
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Johnny, the tongue weight will be different than the spec listed on the Jayco site, you'll need to add the additional weight of the propane tanks and the battery and anything else that you might have added to the tongue of the TT. On my 21QB, the dry tongue weight is list at 490 lbs. and that does not include 110 lbs for two 30 gal. propane tanks and 50 lbs for a battery bringing the tongue weight to 650 lbs. Do some additional research so you can move forward safely.
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Old 06-01-2017, 10:04 AM   #5
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Just as a data point, your setup will likely be different. Our 2018 26bh was 5013 lbs as built from the factory. Options added were cool n store and the ladder. Ran it across the scale last trip and it was 5700 lbs with our gear and a tongue weight of 700 lbs. We did not have any water in the tanks. Propane tanks were full.

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Old 06-01-2017, 10:13 AM   #6
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Johnny, the tongue weight will be different than the spec listed on the Jayco site, you'll need to add the additional weight of the propane tanks and the battery and anything else that you might have added to the tongue of the TT. On my 21QB, the dry tongue weight is list at 490 lbs. and that does not include 110 lbs for two 30 gal. propane tanks and 50 lbs for a battery bringing the tongue weight to 650 lbs. Do some additional research so you can move forward safely.
I'll do that. Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2017, 10:14 AM   #7
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Just as a data point, your setup will likely be different. Our 2018 26bh was 5013 lbs as built from the factory. Options added were cool n store and the ladder. Ran it across the scale last trip and it was 5700 lbs with our gear and a tongue weight of 700 lbs. We did not have any water in the tanks. Propane tanks were full.

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What's the best thing to use to actually weigh the tongue weight?
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Old 06-01-2017, 10:17 AM   #8
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What's the best thing to use to actually weigh the tongue weight?
CAT scale

Get the rest of the weights at the same time while your are there
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Old 06-01-2017, 10:26 AM   #9
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As mentioned the info on the website isn't very useful. You need the actual camper you are looking at as equipped to see what it really weighs leaving the factory. You are throwing in lots of stuff like full tanks of water. It is good to keep in mind.

The only real way to figure this out is to get the camper, load it out with water and gear as you are traveling and hit the CAT Scales. This isn't realistic. The dealer wouldn't let you do this and even if they did it is way too much work.

I normally tell peopled to go to the website and look at the GVWR of the camper. This is your not to exceed weight for the camper with water, beer, propane, beer, batteries, beer, clothing and don't forget food to go along with the beer. With sensible packing you can easily stay under the GVWR so that gives you a little buffer. Take that GVWR and multiply by 13% and 15%. You want your tongue weight to be in that range. Then add in your 80lbs or so for the WD hitch. Sure 10% is the minimum but the problem with 10% is if you have full grey and black tanks on the way home because there is no dump site, those tanks are in the back and it takes away from your tongue weight. So if you have to run 10% tongue weight to meet payload caps then be prepared for stability issues. Sure you can play the balancing game but that is no fun.

Things where people hit limits are going to be the hitch limit, the payload capacity and the max axle rating on the TV. The towing capacity of the TV is never an issue. Well if you are getting close then you blew way past the other three limiting factors.

A 600lbs ATV would be a tough one in the bed of the truck. Odds are you are getting close on those three areas and another 600lbs in the bed would blow you past them. If the numbers did work out which I doubt, odds are, yes you would have to adjust a hitch. That is easier on some units than others. For instance a bar based system like an Equalizer would take more work to adjust than a chain based system like Blue Ox.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:12 AM   #10
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Looks like I was a bit off on the payload capacity. Maybe the curb weight is with an empty tank.

Anyway, here's what the stickers say.

Also, I just ordered a tongue weight scale.
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Old 06-01-2017, 12:52 PM   #11
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One other question for now - Am I correct in assuming that the only way to tell if you're pushing the envelope on your axle weights is to take it to a CAT scale?
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Old 06-01-2017, 12:57 PM   #12
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One other question for now - Am I correct in assuming that the only way to tell if you're pushing the envelope on your axle weights is to take it to a CAT scale?
Estimation and basic math will only get you so far.. Best bet is a scale.
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Old 06-01-2017, 01:03 PM   #13
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You can get a ballpark​ from the stickers. Add on the weight of dealer install options and accessories. Along with other stuff. It is a rough estimate though because you don't know how much is carried by the front vs rear. CAT Scales are the best option.

You could load up the truck with passengers and equipment like the ATV and hit the scale to see what would be left for a camper.

Not sure how often you would be looking at hauling the ATV but you could go toyhauler and then you only have a fraction of the weight on the truck.

That is one thing I mention to people facing cargo limits. If you have 100lbs of cargo in the truck that you can move to the camper, it will only count toward 10-15 lbs against your cargo and axle limits on the truck.

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Old 06-01-2017, 01:11 PM   #14
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You have an identical truck to what we used to have. I think our payload was even the same to the pound! The 1764lbs payload rating is for a bare bones XL model with no options. I am guessing you have an XLT. So all the options that the XLT trim package added reduced your actual payload capacity. Things like carpets, floor mats, running boards, stereo, 6 way power seat, receiver, and on and on......
Be glad you didn't get a Lariat or Platinum.

We were towing a slightly larger trailer, the 281BHS, and we were not happy with the stability towing. We were under on all weight limits but just barely under on the rear axle. 36lbs under I think.

The weights Quantum gave above are probably as good as you will get without weighing your own trailer.

1488 - 700lbs for tongue weight - 100lbs for WDH = 688lbs left over for cargo

Add up what you and your family weigh along with anything else you want to put in the truck and if you are under 688lbs you will be below all capacities. If you are under 88lbs you can add your quad to the back!

If upgrading vehicles isn't feasible adding LT tires and/or airbags will probably help with stability. But you might get out there and find it tows great. I think everyone's perception of good towing is different. You won't know until you try it.

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Old 06-01-2017, 01:16 PM   #15
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You can get a ballpark​ from the stickers. Add on the weight of dealer install options and accessories. Along with other stuff. It is a rough estimate though because you don't know how much is carried by the front vs rear. CAT Scales are the best option.

You could load up the truck with passengers and equipment like the ATV and hit the scale to see what would be left for a camper.

Not sure how often you would be looking at hauling the ATV but you could go toyhauler and then you only have a fraction of the weight on the truck.

That is one thing I mention to people facing cargo limits. If you have 100lbs of cargo in the truck that you can move to the camper, it will only count toward 10-15 lbs against your cargo and axle limits on the truck.

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Ideally, I would never try to tow this trailer with the ATV in the back of the truck. This would be a very unusual situation and hopefully I'll never have to do it.

Just to clarify something, though, the new 26BH is already sitting on my parking pad. It's way too late to go with a toy hauler.

I'll have hook everything up, fill it up and make the 30 mile trek to the nearest scale sometime soon.
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Old 06-01-2017, 01:18 PM   #16
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I normally tell people to go to the website and look at the GVWR of the camper. This is your not to exceed weight for the camper with water, beer, propane, beer, batteries, beer, clothing and don't forget food to go along with the beer.
I really like the way you pack. We seem to have the same priorities.
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Old 06-01-2017, 01:27 PM   #17
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You have an identical truck to what we used to have. I think our payload was even the same to the pound! The 1764lbs payload rating is for a bare bones XL model with no options. I am guessing you have an XLT. So all the options that the XLT trim package added reduced your actual payload capacity. Things like carpets, floor mats, running boards, stereo, 6 way power seat, receiver, and on and on......
Be glad you didn't get a Lariat or Platinum.

We were towing a slightly larger trailer, the 281BHS, and we were not happy with the stability towing. We were under on all weight limits but just barely under on the rear axle. 36lbs under I think.

The weights Quantum gave above are probably as good as you will get without weighing your own trailer.

1488 - 700lbs for tongue weight - 100lbs for WDH = 688lbs left over for cargo

Add up what you and your family weigh along with anything else you want to put in the truck and if you are under 688lbs you will be below all capacities. If you are under 88lbs you can add your quad to the back!

If upgrading vehicles isn't feasible adding LT tires and/or airbags will probably help with stability. But you might get out there and find it tows great. I think everyone's perception of good towing is different. You won't know until you try it.

Cheers
Thanks for that.

I weighed 209 this morning - way over 88 pounds. Still, if I ever had to try to carry my ATV I would be hunting alone, so it would just be me in the truck and all of my gear could go in the TT.

I'll have to just get this rig weighed and see where the numbers fall.
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Old 06-01-2017, 01:37 PM   #18
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Let us know your weights when you get them. They will probably help out someone else in the same boat down the road.

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Old 06-01-2017, 02:11 PM   #19
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Got it. I was thinking that this was a pre-purchase question as it normally is. That can help with the numbers estimates as you can look at the yellow sticker on the side or in the door to get the camper weights rather than rely on website estimates.

Another way to save weight is not fill the tanks until closer to your destination if possible. Also does your camper have twin tanks on the FW side? Some do and if possible can you only fill one? Not sure that this was an option.

We just were camping for three days with two adults and 5 kids (not all ours) and were still reading full on the 40 gal FW tank as we were getting ready to leave. So I ran the water for a while to full my dump tanks more.

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Old 06-01-2017, 02:30 PM   #20
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Another way to save weight is not fill the tanks until closer to your destination if possible. Also does your camper have twin tanks on the FW side? Some do and if possible can you only fill one? Not sure that this was an option.
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I do have the dual 42 gallon tanks and I'll need them. This will be serious boondocking, and there will be three of us bow hunting, which will necessitate a military shower at least once every day and sometimes twice a day for everyone for a week.

I'd have to do some research to find out if there is a location to fill the tanks closer to when I get there, but where I will primarily be using this camper is a remote location in Mark Twain National Forest.

The nearest town is a tiny one. If at all possible, I will be running with full water tanks. The trip is around 220 miles.
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