|
08-17-2014, 12:07 AM
|
#1
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 31
|
How do you judge what to run your gain at on your TV?
I have a 2012 f150 with a built in trailer controller, I usually run it at 8.5, but I am really not sure how to gauge it.
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 05:38 AM
|
#2
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Ewing
Posts: 29
|
In a safe area, start towing and get up to about 25 mph and then push the manual brake slide lever on the controller completely to activate the trailer brakes. If the trailer brakes lock up completely and skid, you have too much gain and should reduce it. Keep repeating this process and reducing or increasing in small increments until you get the trailer brakes set to the point of just before a complete lock up where the wheels skid.
__________________
Mets721
2014 Whitehawk 33bhbs
2014 F-250 Superduty Crew Cab 6.2l Gas 3.73
Equal-i-zer 1000/10000
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 06:59 AM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
|
My F150 manual on page 266-267 explains the gain setting procedure that goes something like this:
Pull your trailer on a dry level surface about 25mph and squeeze the manual lever together on the TBC. If the trailer tires lock up, reduce the gain level and repeat the process until you can squeeze the manual levers all the way together without the trailer brakes locking up.
__________________
2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 07:00 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
|
What met said ^^
__________________
2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 07:26 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Berlin Center, Ohio
Posts: 195
|
I tried to do it as mcfarmall described when I got my new trailer this year, but still have not been able to get the trailer brakes to lock up or stop my truck in any reasonable distance. I have been told that the brakes leave the factory only contacting the drum at about 20% and they need to be 'burnished' before they will perform the way they should. Because of this, I'm running my gain at 10 and waiting for the brakes to wear in.
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 04:12 PM
|
#6
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,771
|
Was your trailer towed from the factory to your dealer or loaded on a trailer? Only takes 50 miles or so to burnish in the trailer brakes.
__________________
Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 07:44 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Berlin Center, Ohio
Posts: 195
|
norty,
I bought my X23B in Indiana right down the street from the factory and drove it 275 miles to my home in Ohio. It was mostly turnpike driving so the brakes didn't get that much of a workout. I did drive around a lot in Indiana trying to get them to grab, but no luck. Since then I've taken it out on three camping trips, but only a few miles from my house. Also, drove around for awhile getting used to the trailer, but they still don't stop the truck. I contacted Dexter and they told me that to burnish them I would have to go about 40 mph and slow to 20 mph using only the trailer brakes about 35 times. I did that, but I'm sure not 35 times. I just figured they'd wear in eventually, although I have been thinking about adjusting them. It's starting to concern me a bit!
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 08:14 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Secret Cove
Posts: 10,701
|
Have to admit it sounds strange to me. I'm no mechanic, just did as McFarm/manual said and it has always worked?
__________________
2010 Jayco Feather Sport 22'6" (sold)DrawTite,12,000 lbs. 2017 Jayco 212 QBW BAJA (bought)
2011 Ford F-150 XLT SCab 4x4 Tow Package
"If you can't be smart; be stubborn.". DG.
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 08:23 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Berlin Center, Ohio
Posts: 195
|
I've replaced drum brakes before and always adjusted them so that they would drag just a little bit when spinning the the tire by hand. Maybe I should jack up the trailer and see if there is any drag present.
|
|
|
08-17-2014, 08:33 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Langley (Vancouver)
Posts: 396
|
I go by feel.. If it feels like my truck is being pulled to a stop i turn my gain down. If it feels like i am getting pushed to a stop, i turn it up..always adjusting depending if i am towing on hills or the flats. Try to get it feeling like it would when i brake w/o the trailer on.. A brake job is cheaper to do on a trailer than my truck so i'd rather be a bit high on my gain than a bit low.. Just my 2cents.
__________________
TT: 2015 Jayco Jayflight 26BH Elite
TV: 2014 Ram 1500 Sport, 5.7 HEMI 3.21, Firestone 1000# air suspension. WD hitch w/800# bars
SOLD: 2012 Jayco J-series 1007
|
|
|
08-18-2014, 06:32 AM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Berlin Center, Ohio
Posts: 195
|
Sorry scrawf7... Didn't mean to hijack your thread! Haha
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|