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Old 10-12-2016, 09:49 PM   #41
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I have seen this rule-of-thumb over and over again, that >10% of the weight of the trailer should be on the tongue. I think this needs to be revisited, if you read the instructions for any WDH system and in your trailer owner's manual, they all recommend that the truck/trailer combo be level. The tongue weight that results from this configuration seems, in my opinion, to be the correct tongue weight. On my particular trailer, a 2015 28BHBE without the elite package, the tongue weight resulting from levelling the truck/trailer is between 10-11%.

Per suggestions of others about increasing the tongue weight, I have tried to increase the TW through changing the WDH configuration, but this results in both the truck and trailer being slightly off-level (like a "V"). While I do not think Jayco's numbers from the brochure are exact, definitely add the weight of the propane cylinders and battery, I do not think they are way off. The trailers are designed to be towed level, unless you add additional weight to the front storage, I do not see how the tongue weight of a 28BHBE is going to be over 1000lb. That being said, there are a few members with these trailers that exceed 10-11%, but I think they are in the minority.

Nonetheless, I still recommend a 2500 or 3500 unless you are towing infrequently like me! In that case a maxed out 1500 will do fine based on my past 2 years of experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by need-a-vacation View Post
Which, for a safe, stable tow (regardless of what wdh you buy!) you generally need 12-15% of the total loaded trailer weight to be on the tongue. What this means is if you have a 9000lb loaded tt, if you placed a scale under the coupler (where you hook the tt up to the truck), the tw would be between 1080lbs-1350lbs (12-15% of 9000lbs) as measured by the scale. This does vary from one trailer to the next, but is the general target range. The other thing to keep in mind is the "brochure" dry weights should only be used very lightly!!! And from what I understand, the weight of the propane tanks and a battery on the tongue is not included in the "brochure" dry tongue/hitch weight.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:17 PM   #42
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Has anybody looked at specs for new trucks, this is not the 1960s and grandpas old truck. I ordered a new truck and it won't be built till late December, I am lucky and have a friend that works for Ford and he got me all the option code sheets since car salesmen are just as bad as RV salesman, neither knows much about what they are selling. A 2017 F150, 4x2, 3.5 Ecoboost, 3.55, Option 53C-Max Trailer Tow Pkg along with option 627 Heavy Duty Payload Pkg. Payload 3000#, Max Trailer Weight 12,000#. A 2017 F250, 4x2, 6.2L, 3.73, Payload 3800#, Max Trailer Weight 12,900#. Not much difference, the F250 has 800# more payload and 900# more trailer capacity.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:24 PM   #43
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You seem to be sensitised to comments about F150s, but I ASSURE you that the same comments are made about pretty much all 1500s. I don't think its the F150 versus the world, I think its 1500 vs 2500/3500. The are pros and cons to both, but the fact of the matter is that since 2014 the capabilities (power-to-weight, payload, towing capacities) of 1500s have increased substantially across the board (maybe excluding RAM because of the switch to rear coil springs). Focusing on crew cab 4wd 1500 configurations, you can easily find GM trucks with payloads between 1750-2100lb (3.42 versus 3.73, lower trims) and Fords with payloads from 1800-2400 (HDPP with 3.5 EB, lower trims).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottawasteve View Post
You need to read beyond the title of the original post. The OP specifically asked about a 2017 F150 and what options would be necessary to pull a 28BHBE. As usually happens on this forum, when somebody asks about an F150 the Ram fan boys try to scare posters about endangering families by towing with an F150. Do a forum search, this happens every time somebody asks about towing within rated specs of an F150 but not any other TV. I have yet to see an F150 owner Ram bashing on this forum and I don't understand why Ram owners feel the necessity. Take your F150 bashing over to the Ram forums, you will get a lot more support.

Your experience towing with Chev 1500 with 1400 lbs of payload is completely irrelevant as to whether an F150 with HDPP and 85% more payload capacity can safely tow a 28BHBE. While it is theoretically possible to be on the "margins" of 2600 lbs of payload, however the same loading would be on the "margins" of a gas 250/2500 and require DRW.

I think the issue has been sufficiently discussed and I understand that you are proud of your gas Ram 2500, but it may not be the right vehicle for everybody. Feel free to PM me if you feel the need continue bashing F150's.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:28 PM   #44
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The F250 has a full floating rear axle, heavier duty read differential, heavier duty gas engine options, etc etc. If you are hauling around near max payload frequently, the F250 is a better option, less frequently then the F150 is the better option.

The 6.2 sounds ALOT better than the 3.5, though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer330 View Post
Has anybody looked at specs for new trucks, this is not the 1960s and grandpas old truck. I ordered a new truck and it won't be built till late December, I am lucky and have a friend that works for Ford and he got me all the option code sheets since car salesmen are just as bad as RV salesman, neither knows much about what they are selling. A 2017 F150, 4x2, 3.5 Ecoboost, 3.55, Option 53C-Max Trailer Tow Pkg along with option 627 Heavy Duty Payload Pkg. Payload 3000#, Max Trailer Weight 12,000#. A 2017 F250, 4x2, 6.2L, 3.73, Payload 3800#, Max Trailer Weight 12,900#. Not much difference, the F250 has 800# more payload and 900# more trailer capacity.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:46 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorbreath View Post
I have seen this rule-of-thumb over and over again, that >10% of the weight of the trailer should be on the tongue. I think this needs to be revisited, if you read the instructions for any WDH system and in your trailer owner's manual, they all recommend that the truck/trailer combo be level. The tongue weight that results from this configuration seems, in my opinion, to be the correct tongue weight. On my particular trailer, a 2015 28BHBE without the elite package, the tongue weight resulting from levelling the truck/trailer is between 10-11%.

Per suggestions of others about increasing the tongue weight, I have tried to increase the TW through changing the WDH configuration, but this results in both the truck and trailer being slightly off-level (like a "V"). While I do not think Jayco's numbers from the brochure are exact, definitely add the weight of the propane cylinders and battery, I do not think they are way off. The trailers are designed to be towed level, unless you add additional weight to the front storage, I do not see how the tongue weight of a 28BHBE is going to be over 1000lb. That being said, there are a few members with these trailers that exceed 10-11%, but I think they are in the minority.

Nonetheless, I still recommend a 2500 or 3500 unless you are towing infrequently like me! In that case a maxed out 1500 will do fine based on my past 2 years of experience.
Motor,

You are correct in that the trailer being level, or slightly nose down (up to about 1") will result in the best tow.

But it sounds like you may have misunderstood how to increase your tw, or how tw is figured. To increase the tw of your tt, you do not attempt to do so by changing the wd bar adjustment. All that does is change the weight on the front axle with the tt hooked up and wd bars installed.

The proper way would be to move items around the trailer to increase the tw, moving heavier items to the front and lighter items to the rear, or if the fresh water tank is in front of the axles by adding water to the tank (if empty). If you place a scale under the coupler, the scaled weight is what your tw is. Not what is the added weight to the tv with the wd bars hooked up.

Adjusting the wdh is then done based on your tv and loaded tt. Depending on what tv you have, the recommended wdh adjustment can vary. You want to adjust as follows to restore 100% of the lost front axle weight. This is done after adjusting the hitch head up or down so the tt is level once hooked up.

Truck only front axle weight: 3000lbs
Truck with tt hooked up, but without the wd bars: 2600lbs
The front axle "lost" 400lbs, you want to adjust the wdh head tilt so when the wd bars are hooked up, the front axle weighs 3000lbs, or as close to 3000lbs as possible.

If it is suggested for 50% return, then the front axle should weigh 2800lbs with the tt hooked up and the wd bars installed.

If needed, follow my signature link for the wdh set up info.
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Old 10-13-2016, 12:27 AM   #46
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We looked seriously at the 28BHBE but went with the 32BHDS (three teens so the bunkroom works out better).

Also love our Pro Pride 3P Hitch (1400#) and Ford F-250 7.3 PSD. Towed it to Yellowstone and Grand Teton last summer and hardly new it was back there!
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:38 AM   #47
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Just my 2 cents for what it's worth. Go with a 2500/250 and be safer and happier in the long run. Especially if you have any dreams of upgrading to a FW or larger TT in the future.
I'm a diesel guy and have gone back and forth from diesel to gas, but always come back to diesel. Once you experience the pulling power of a diesel it's hard to like anything else.
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:28 AM   #48
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I think we have gone as far as we should on this one. Thread closed.
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