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Old 08-01-2015, 04:31 PM   #1
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Question Question about Equal-i-zer on lifted truck

So I have a 2014 Ram 2500 with a 5" lift and 37" tires. I set the Equal-i-zer hitch up according to the instructions (bought the 9" drop shank). The hitch works great, but it's super loud. I know they are supposed to make noise, but this is extra loud. After doing some reading, it looks like the problem may be that the bars from the hitch to the trailer are at considerable angles (upward from the truck to the TT).

Should the bars be closer to level? Will they still provide enough weight distribution like that? Should I angle the hitch head downward some if if lower the bars at the trailer?

Thank you for any help
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:44 PM   #2
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Question about Equal-i-zer on lifted truck

It will get better with time. Most people who think it's too loud get the bracket jackets. You can find them on Amazon.

Equal-i-zer 95015150 Spring Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRJNIE..._kOvVvb27J7V0C
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Old 08-01-2015, 06:40 PM   #3
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AV8B- Not sure about that hitch with the 5" lift and 37 inchers but most bars I have seen are about level, as mine are. You might check youtube.com and search for equalizer installation corrections. Saw a real good video there and it's very helpful. I think equalizer.com sent it to me so try their website also.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:49 PM   #4
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Without pictures, hard to tell what your considerable angle is, but from our experience, the bars are quite level with the TT and do not angle up or down at all. You may need to adjust some more. Also, it is quite loud, so you can grease the bars where they sit on the L-brackets, and also grease the swiveling parts on the hitch head. We do that at the start of the camping season and ours stays quiet. Never had any problems with sway as a result of greasing.
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:02 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by tylersdad View Post
It will get better with time. Most people who think it's too loud get the bracket jackets. You can find them on Amazon.

Equal-i-zer 95015150 Spring Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRJNIE..._kOvVvb27J7V0C
I have these on mine. Quieted it down a lot. Great accessory that should come standard with the hitch.
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:28 PM   #6
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I have a 4 point Equalizer and here is my advice and experience:
First get the setup right. Use the adjustment of the hitch head on the draw bar to get the trailer level or slightly nose low. This may take several tries. Adjust the L angle bars on the trailer tongue to get the spring bars parallel to the trailer tongue. Location of the ball socket on the trailer tongue drives this adjustment. Use hardened washers under the removable rivet on the hitch head to adjust the head tilt which adjusts how much pressure you are applying to the spring bars. All these adjustments are inter-dependent so it will probably take several tries to get everything working in harmony.
Now about the noise. My unit was horribly noisy when new. I noticed that under the spring bar sockets the metal of the cast hitch head was galling badly so I took it all apart. What I found was that the sockets, which are hardened, had burrs on the edges which were digging into the cast part of the hitch head. I used a fine flat file to remove the burrs on the sockets and a large flat bastard file to smooth out the damaged areas of the casting. Do not remove material, just smooth any raised areas. I then cleaned everything up real good to remove any remaining debris and reassembled it using a good heavy duty grease on all the contact surfaces. The noise is gone now and the hitch is working as it should. You should also check inside the ball socket on the trailer. Mine had grit embedded in the paint which chewed up my hitch ball. I cleaned that out and now I grease the ball before use. Noise is now almost non-existent.
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:50 PM   #7
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DO NOT grease the bars where they ride on the L brackets. That is how sway is controlled (part of it anyway) with the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system.

As mentioned, if the bars are pointing up at the trailer end, change the hitch angle by adding a washer (or two) to get the bars level. Adjust the L brackets down at the same time. Equal-I-Zer told me that a 1 washer change at the hitch head is equal to changing the L brackets by a hole.

Good luck!
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Old 08-02-2015, 06:14 AM   #8
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I have a 2015 Ram 2500, stock height. I just had to buy a 6" drop shank and am at the lowest setting for my 2015 29QBS. Seems to me you probably need a bigger drop shank... you are 5" taller than me and only dropping 3" more.

If all things are the same, it sounds like you could still be 2" high on the truck side. That would put a lot of force on your bars and brackets. The popping and squealing sound is your bars moving on your brackets. The more force, the more noise.

Just a thought.
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:04 PM   #9
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I have a 2015 Ram 2500, stock height. I just had to buy a 6" drop shank and am at the lowest setting for my 2015 29QBS. Seems to me you probably need a bigger drop shank... you are 5" taller than me and only dropping 3" more.

If all things are the same, it sounds like you could still be 2" high on the truck side. That would put a lot of force on your bars and brackets. The popping and squealing sound is your bars moving on your brackets. The more force, the more noise.

Just a thought.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

As for the drop, 9" drop is the biggest Equal-i-zer makes, and I spent a good amount of time on the phone with them to make sure I was going to be able to use their setup. After measuring everything exactly the way they told me to, they said to get the 9". When I tow, the trailer sits almost perfectly level, maybe even the tiniest bit nose low. When we set the hitch up, the measurements from the front of the trailer to the back were off by around 1/8th of an inch.

I really think the "L" brackets just need to come down (I had them at the initial setting, right in the middle). Then, if tension on the bars seems too little, I can add a washer to the hitch head. I'm just going to have to play with it a little, I'm sure.

Ill be sure to look for burrs and galling, too. I will mess with it this week, and I'll let everyone know what I come up with. Thanks!!
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:05 PM   #10
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Go look at the reviews for the bracket jackets on Amazon. They really seem to help with the noise.
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Old 08-03-2015, 10:47 AM   #11
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DO NOT grease the bars where they ride on the L brackets. That is how sway is controlled (part of it anyway) with the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system.

Good luck!
You actually can grease the bars where they ride on the L bracket. It has the same effect as using the L-bracket jackets--the only difference is that the jackets are not as messy as grease. Progress Mfg has noted that using the jackets (or grease) will slightly degrade anti-sway capability, but not to any significant degree.

From the manual:
In some cases the friction on the L-brackets or sockets also generates noise. This most commonly occurs during slow, tight turns where the tow vehicle and trailer are in a twist. This noise is normal and should be expected. It is an indication that there is friction on the L-bracket and sockets.
Most of the noise will usually subside after a few uses as the hitch breaks in. Trailer and tow vehicle loading may also influence hitch noise. Lubricating the socket joint may help reduce this noise, and is part of the required regular maintenance routine. Lubricating the L-bracket joint is optional. A better solution is a set of official Equal-i-zer brand Sway Bracket Jackets. They quiet the ride without the mess of using a lubricant.
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Old 08-03-2015, 12:22 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the suggestions.

As for the drop, 9" drop is the biggest Equal-i-zer makes, and I spent a good amount of time on the phone with them to make sure I was going to be able to use their setup. After measuring everything exactly the way they told me to, they said to get the 9". When I tow, the trailer sits almost perfectly level, maybe even the tiniest bit nose low. When we set the hitch up, the measurements from the front of the trailer to the back were off by around 1/8th of an inch.
That is perfect. You can be off as much as an inch to an inch and a half before needing to move the hitch head.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV8B6015 View Post
I really think the "L" brackets just need to come down (I had them at the initial setting, right in the middle). Then, if tension on the bars seems too little, I can add a washer to the hitch head. I'm just going to have to play with it a little, I'm sure.
If the bars are not parallel to the trailer tongue when you look at them from the side then yes, you need to move the brackets. On my 27DSRL I have the brackets as low as they will go and they are parallel to the tongue. I use 5 washers for tension.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV8B6015 View Post
Ill be sure to look for burrs and galling, too. I will mess with it this week, and I'll let everyone know what I come up with. Thanks!!
If you remove the spring bar swivels don't smack them with a hard hammer, they are themselves hardened and could crack. I used a 3 pound dead blow hammer and one of the spring bars to get mine out. Good luck, keep at it and you will be successful!
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Old 08-03-2015, 12:34 PM   #13
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If the bars are not parallel to the trailer tongue when you look at them from the side then yes, you need to move the brackets. On my 27DSRL I have the brackets as low as they will go and they are parallel to the tongue. I use 5 washers for tension.
I think Russ nailed it with this right here. In the instructions, it should state (it used to anyway) that the spring bars should be parallel to the trailer frame. This will maximize the friction point between the ends of the bars and the spring bar hangers, thereby maximizing your sway control effectiveness. I have my spring bar hangers at their second-to-lowest setting and the head tilted with 5 washers and my bars angle slightly upward, but it's the best I can get with what I have (though that's pretty specific and may or may not apply to your situation). Either way, I would get as much adjustment from tilting the head using washers as you can to allow the bars to ride as close to parallel with the frame as you can get.

Added: One of the things that makes it more difficult for me is that the coupler on my trailer is mounted to the bottom of the trailer frame, thus putting the whole kit lower. So then the spring bar hangers have to go down to accommodate that setup.
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:52 PM   #14
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Ok, here is the latest. I moved the L brackets to their lowest position and added 2 washers to the hitch head for a total of 5. Took it to an empty parking lot to do some measuring and to test drive it. Drive was good, didn't feel unstable at all. Still pretty noisy though.

The trailer sits within 5/8" of being totally level and the fender well measurements are good. The arms are still not parallel to the trailer tongue, but they're closer.

I called Equal-i-zer, and they said I can flip the mounts for the L brackets upside down, which would allow me to lower the L brackets more. He said I can also have up to 8 washers on the hitch head if needed.

I'm going on a short trip this weekend, so I'm going to try it as is, and If I need to, I'll try flipping the mounts and going from there.
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:15 PM   #15
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Ok, here is the latest. I moved the L brackets to their lowest position and added 2 washers to the hitch head for a total of 5. Took it to an empty parking lot to do some measuring and to test drive it. Drive was good, didn't feel unstable at all. Still pretty noisy though.

The trailer sits within 5/8" of being totally level and the fender well measurements are good. The arms are still not parallel to the trailer tongue, but they're closer.

I called Equal-i-zer, and they said I can flip the mounts for the L brackets upside down, which would allow me to lower the L brackets more. He said I can also have up to 8 washers on the hitch head if needed.

I'm going on a short trip this weekend, so I'm going to try it as is, and If I need to, I'll try flipping the mounts and going from there.
My spring bar mounts are "flipped", meaning the studs are in the lower position. Forgot to mention that.
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:48 PM   #16
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My spring bar mounts are "flipped", meaning the studs are in the lower position. Forgot to mention that.
Oh yea, I didn't even think of that! Mine are flipped also. I'll bet if you do that you will be golden!
When I back the truck up to the trailer tongue with the hitch and sway bars installed and the trailer coupler sitting just high enough to allow the ball to get under it my sway bars are about an inch below the L brackets. I have to lower the tongue onto the ball, close the latch and raise the tongue and the truck with the tongue jack until I can get the sway bars on to the L brackets. That is how much preload I have on mine.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:57 PM   #17
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Hey av8b6015

Ever get that hitch figured out?
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:23 PM   #18
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Sorry! I pulled the camper this past weekend, and the hitch was nearly silent. I cleaned all the surfaces with brake cleaner, which stripped most of the paint off the moving surfaces. I then applied a light film of lithium grease at the pivot points on the hitch head and along the surface of the bars where they ride on the L bracket. I did not notice any sway, and like I said it was nearly silent.
While I was at the camp site, I flipped the brackets, but kept the height of the L brackets about the same since I didn't have the tools to add washers to the hitch head.
Now, Camping World has the camper for some repairs (our punch list) and as soon as I get it back, I will do some more adjusting to get the bars level with the tongue. I'm also going to get some dry lube for the hitch because I live on a dirt road, and the grease will likely do more harm than good.
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:10 PM   #19
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I have the Equalizer 10K and mine is completely silent. It also has the bracket jackets which I believe help a lot. My bars are completely parallel with the frame and I'm running 7 washers. Seems to be just about right.

Can the Equalizer bracket jackets be used on the Fastway E2? Now THAT is a noisy hitch and it looks like the brackets are very similar if not the same.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:55 AM   #20
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I have the Equalizer 10K and mine is completely silent. It also has the bracket jackets which I believe help a lot. My bars are completely parallel with the frame and I'm running 7 washers. Seems to be just about right.

Can the Equalizer bracket jackets be used on the Fastway E2? Now THAT is a noisy hitch and it looks like the brackets are very similar if not the same.
I can tell you with certainty that the L-Brackets and bracket mounting hardware are completely interchangeable. I bent my spring bar hanger brackets and couldn't get them to stay straight (Fastway E2 10000/1000), so I emailed Progress Manufacturing to ensure I could use the Equalizer spring bar hardware with my Fastway hitch and spring bars and they said "no problem".

The brackets for the Equalizer are of a superior design because the L-brackets sit flush against the mounting plates whereas the stock E2 L-brackets sit off the mounting plates on the welded studs. So I figured if I'm just replacing bent brackets, why not upgrade some while I'm at it.

Eventually I'll make the jump and upgrade to the Equalizer E4, but it's just not in the cards right now, and it's less of an issue with the bigger truck.
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