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Old 10-05-2015, 08:50 PM   #11
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orange County
Posts: 32
Going to finish this weekend. Had to order an 11/16" drill bit. No one carries that size it seems. Just need to put the cams on the trailer, locate the saddles and I'll be ready to roll.

I have the neighborhood Dad's and kids coming over for a driveway slumber party this weekend. 5 kids total aged 4 and under. (my boy is 3)...the Mom's are going to love us for this idea!

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Old 10-12-2015, 01:20 PM   #12
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orange County
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Just a little update - I finished the install yesterday. It did not goes as simple as I had hoped. It was nearly 100 degrees, and either I wasn't thinking clearly, or it was just bad luck, but...when I was putting the cams and mounting brackets on the bottom of the frame rails, I drilled the passenger side first, got the bracket all set. Went to the driver's side, only to realize that the emergency break away switch was right in the way of the cam mount for that side. This was as easy as switching the mount orientation, the problem (if you want to call it that) is that I had already drilled the passenger side. So, I have 2 extra holes on the passenger side now! And they are ugly since the holes are 11/16" in diameter. Trying to think of a way to use body filler and paint it over....yes, it bothers me that bad!

Then, as I was drilling out the drivers side the rear most hole walked down about 1/8" of an inch while I was drilling. Again, it is a beast of a hole to drill, and the frame wall was much thicker than I anticipated. In any event, there is a small gap at the rear of the drivers side bracket between it and the frame. Not noticeable to anyone but me, but I like things done perfectly, so again, it is eating me up that the bit walked down a little on me.

Factor in the heat, and I was one sweaty, p.o.'d hombre!

In any event, I got the brackets installed and torqued to spec. Took it on a test drive, seemed fine. I had towed with just the trunion bars and chains prior to installing the cams, and to be honest it didn't feel any different. In fairness, there was no wind or passing big rigs, so maybe that is where it shines. I'm going to have the DW drive it around the block a few times next weekend while I sit in the bed of the truck just to verify that the cams/trunion bars are locking/unlocking as intended.

Lastly, I didn't realize that this entire hitch was manufactured in China. Comparing this hitch to others, I feel it is a bit overpriced for what it is, especially when you consider where it is made. That is just my opinion. I know that this particular hitch has a large fan base, so I'll chalk it up as the price to pay to play.

I learned a lot installing this, so if anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I can say that although the cam mounts gave me a harder time than I had hoped, the rest of the hitch install went smoothly, and I have no clearance issues that limit the trunion bars due to early cam contact that other's have experienced.

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Old 10-12-2015, 01:32 PM   #13
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I drilled two of the holes wrong while installing my dual cam hitch. I just used black rtv silicone on the holes that were wrong. Unless you are really looking you wont see them.

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Old 10-12-2015, 01:58 PM   #14
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orange County
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I'll give that a try. I have some at the house. Any suggestions on how to move a drill hole up 1/8"?
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:31 PM   #15
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Nice setup.
Most WDH's are made in China except for a few high end are made in the USA.
The brake away switch could have been moved a bit forward to.
1/8" is not that much noticeable on the operation. RTV black does wonders
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Old 10-12-2015, 03:29 PM   #16
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orange County
Posts: 32
I considered moving the switch, however, the wires connected to it were at their limits, so I would have had to splice in a longer piece of wire. I also like the idea of the switch being behind the trunions/cams just in case any weird articulation wouldn't give it a whack.

Either way, its on there now, so I'll just RTV it, and in the future check both sides prior to drilling. And to think I rechecked my measurements a dozen times prior to drilling those first holes....irony!
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:56 PM   #17
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Good to hear the Dual Cam mounting project is behind you....., and yes, you will know the Dual Cams are working when dealing with cross winds and other less then ideal towing conditions.

I recall having to move my e-brake switch, but actually worked out better for routing the cable in my case.

Oh, periodically check the torque on the (4) thread forming screws....., after about 7 years one of my thread forming screws didn't want to stay torqued, so I replaced all four with grade-8 bolts/nuts thru the A-frame (worked great). I attribute my issue to my heavy tongue weight (1,300lbs).


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Old 10-13-2015, 09:36 PM   #18
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Location: Bremerton
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Originally Posted by OC Dan View Post
So, I spent the morning getting the WDH set up. This is what I have so far. It is just a tad nose high, but the trailer is empty. I'm slowly building up supplies, so as more stuff goes in the trailer, I think it will level it perfectly. I will be installing the cams tomorrow. I just wanted to get the weight distribution done first. Once the cams are installed, the chains should hang perfectly straight, as the brackets that the chains bolt to that mount on the cams will cause the chains to angle back about an inch and a half, which by my estimate should put them dead straight from where they are now.

Those of you who know how to set up a WDH, can you tell me if I'm looking good so far? This is my first time doing it. Thanks!
from your write up and pictures, Your truck profile looks fine, but I think your ball height is a bit too high. Unfortunately, it looks like the hitch head it at the bottom hole in your drop shank.

The ball height on you truck should be 1 to 1-1/2" higher than the coupler height on a level trailer.

Measure and record truck height on all rour corners of your truck.

hook up trailer.

Add tension to the WD bars to restore truck height to un-hitched height (within 3/4 of an inch).

Now check if you WD bars are parallel to the trailer tongue and the ground. If not, then unhook and adjust the hitch head angle.

hook up trailer again, add WD bar tension and remeasure truck corners.

NOW YOU CAN ADD DUAL CAM set up. This is how I did it

add cam brackets and chain hardware and you did.
insert cam in turnbuckle and keep both nuts loose.
apply good coat of grease on cam and cam threads. Hook up WD bars,
take a mallet or 2x4 and tap the cams to ensure they are all the way in the WD bar groove. BTW, your snap up bracket should be vertical from your cam.

drive your truck/trailer forward and backward through a few tight turns to ensure the cams have settled in the WD bars. Finish this maneuver with the truck/trailer is a STRAIGHT LINE.

Now tighten the two large nuts on each of the cams.
unhook the WD bars and wipe off all the grease.

My truck is 3/8" higher in the front 3/4" lower in the back when hooked up. my truck and trailer are both level, I experience no sway at all, and the steering is solid.

I tried to adjust the WD bars to try and return the truck to unhitched heights. I ended up bending one of the cam bars and destroying a snap up bracket. TOO much tension.

Hookup/unhitch has been pretty simple too.
latch the coupler to the ball, then raise truck/trailer with the tongue jack until the jack just starts to lift the truck. Then hook up WD bars. Very little effort is required to get the bars and snap up chains in place. raise your tongue jack and and off you go.

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