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03-28-2017, 10:24 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Jenningsville
Posts: 280
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Reese Pro Series WDH
We ordered a Jay Feather 23BHM from an old-school dealer in western Pennsylvania and the dealer-installed hitch will be a Reese Pro Series, part #49903. GVWR of the trailer is 6250 and the hitch is rated 1,000/10,000 lbs. I'm new and trying to learn as much as I can before I pick up the trailer and start for home so forgive my greenness, but does anyone have an opinion of the hitch? Is it good, is it crap, should I look for an alternative? - any help would be appreciated.
Edit:
I just realized Pro Series is a brand - is that correct? And it has nothing to do with Reese - is that correct too? I'm confused!
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03-28-2017, 11:04 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Eagle River, AK
Posts: 900
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Get ready for all the "pro pride", "equalizer", and other hitch recommendations to flood post.
In short, there are better hitches. Yet, that is not to say what your dealer is installing is bad or low quality.
This dealer installed hitch, which is already in the deal, will work just fine with that trailer.
You can spend more money if you want and get what would be considered a better hitch. Is it necessary? No. Will it make things easier and more comfortable? Yes.
Yet, then again, a bigger trailer and a new truck and a bigger house, etc., and so on will also make things easier and more comfortable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
We are just a humble drinking couple with a hunting and camping problem.
2018 Jayco Octane 260
2019 Dodge Ram 2500, 6.4 Hemi, 8 spd A/T
2021 Argo Aurora 8x8/2008 Arctic Cat M1000 SnoPro
Previous: Komfort 5er/Jamboree MH/Lance Cabover/Jayco Whitehawk 25BHS TT
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03-28-2017, 11:17 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 11,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVGun40
Get ready for all the "pro pride", "equalizer", and other hitch recommendations to flood post.
In short, there are better hitches. Yet, that is not to say what your dealer is installing is bad or low quality.
This dealer installed hitch, which is already in the deal, will work just fine with that trailer.
You can spend more money if you want and get what would be considered a better hitch. Is it necessary? No. Will it make things easier and more comfortable? Yes.
...snip
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^^^^ what he said pretty much nails it.
And congratulations on the new Jay Feather.
__________________
Sherm & Terry w/rescue Eydie (min Schnauzer) & Charley (std Poodle)
SOLD:2015 Jay Flight 27RLS, GY Endurance (E), Days: 102 '15, 90 '16, 80 '17, 161 '18, 365+ '20
SOLD: 2006 Ford F350 PSD, 4WD, CC, LB, SRW, Camper pkg., 375,000mi
Full timing: Some will think you're crazy, some will be envious, just enjoy the freedom!
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03-28-2017, 11:19 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mid-Mi
Posts: 1,492
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The Pro Series wdh is a basic, entry level system made by Reese. It has a limited warranty last I knew vs a limited lifetime warranty of the upper models.
It doesn't have any type of integrated sway control, but the side mounted friction bar should be able to be added.
I would suggest the Reese SC or the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system. Other very good models for the model, having integrated sway control, and the limited lifetime warranty. Maybe your dealer will give you credit towards the upper wdh model.
Wd bars rated at 1000lbs is probably the best choice. There is the chance the 800lb bars would not be enough once you're all loaded up for a trip.
Check out my signature links for a ton of wdh info!!! Be prepared to readjust the wdh once you have loaded the tt up for a trip. Some dealers get pretty darn close setting it up, others aren't even close for the empty tt, and even further off once the rig is loaded up.
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03-28-2017, 11:19 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,954
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A very serviceable basic WDH. These basic Reese hitches have been doing the job for decades. The model number you have includes the friction sway control as well so you should be good to go.
You can buy more expensive and fancier hitches, but there is nothing wrong with the classic.
I use a very similar Husky model with a slightly smaller TT and find it works great.
ETA: I should say works great once properly setup. Mine was dealer installed by a more senior tech at one of the largest dealers in our area. It was completely misconfigured. He even mounted the anti-sway mounting bracket backwards.
Once I had it setup according to the fine directions provided by Husky, THEN I found it worked great.
Don't just trust that your dealer set it up correctly; it was the stories here on JOF that had me questioning the dealer's installation, and I sure am glad I did.
__________________
2011 Jayco X19H (purchased 2015)
2008 Jayco 1007 PUP (purchased new, traded for the X19)
2018 Nissan Titan Midnight Ed.
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03-28-2017, 03:01 PM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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KillerIsMe,
As mentioned, the Reese Pro Series WDH when properly sized/installed/adjusted will work fine with the 23BHM.
Keep in mind that when you depart the RV dealership the WDH will be adjusted under "unloaded" TV/TT conditions. You will want to re-adjust the WDH under "loaded" (ready to camp) conditions. The RV dealership can't "pre-adjust" the WDH for an unknown loaded TV/TT condition.
Make sure your RV dealership provides you with all the WDH documentation.
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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03-28-2017, 05:08 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fulton, NY
Posts: 958
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As much as I would like to say you really should get a ProPride hitch...I can't say that as I don't know what you are towing with or if you will have any issues. As others have said, you will need to re-adjust the hitch once you get the camper and tow rig loaded up for camping. If you start having control issues after re-adjustment, then I will highly recommend a ProPride! Until then, run what you have.
__________________
2017 28BHBE Kitchen skylight, remote control and Aluminum wheels hitched by ProPride 3P
2017 Ram 2500 CC LB 4x4 Big Horn Cummins
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03-28-2017, 06:34 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buda Texas
Posts: 2
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I have the same hitch and pull an x23b with a Ford Expedition. The anti sway friction bar makes a huge difference when you get it set-up right, especially in windy conditions. It would be nice if there was some sort of torque setting for the friction bar or something measureable, that would let you know you had it tightened down enough. You will eventually get a feel for it and if you get too much sway just pull over and tighten it.
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03-28-2017, 08:12 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Lower Alabama
Posts: 1,482
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When we bought our White Hawk 27DSRL the dealer installed the Pro Series WDH with the friction sway bar. According to Reese, we should have had a second friction anti-sway bar because our trailer was over 25'. Initially it was not set up correctly and we were white knuckled until we could find a place to turn around and return to the dealer. After several attempts it was better but we were never happy nor comfortable with it especially with the winds we have in KS. We have subsequently changed to a different WDH and are very happy.
__________________
2018 Jayco Eagle HT 28.5 RSTS
2017 Ford F-250 Lariat FX4, 6.2L, 4.30 gears
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03-28-2017, 08:20 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 709
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I swear by my Equal-i-zer WHD. I don't like the hitches that use the chains to connect the trailer. Equal-i-zer uses bars that set in L-brackets that make for a fixed connection. Equal-i-zer has great customer service, made in America and very easy to install yourself.
This is one area I , personally, would not want skimp on. The connection between your TV and trailer can make getting to your destination safer and a lot more comfortable.
__________________
wan-der-lust (noun) | 'wändǝr,lǝst | a strong desire for or impulse to wander or travel
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03-28-2017, 08:34 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Harrisburg
Posts: 274
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I have been pulling our 24 ft, vendor trailer for over 15 years with the same type hitch that you are having installed. In all those years I have never had a problem with the setup. As stated there are more expensive hitches but the Reese is a good hitch in my opinion. I ordered a Huskey Straight Line from Etrailer when we bought our new travel trailer last year. So far it has done well for us. It also has built in 4 point sway control.
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03-29-2017, 05:23 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Jenningsville
Posts: 280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderlust
I swear by my Equal-i-zer WHD. I don't like the hitches that use the chains to connect the trailer. Equal-i-zer uses bars that set in L-brackets that make for a fixed connection. Equal-i-zer has great customer service, made in America and very easy to install yourself.
This is one area I , personally, would not want skimp on. The connection between your TV and trailer can make getting to your destination safer and a lot more comfortable.
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Thanks Wanderlust. As far as the antisway on the Equalizer, how is it adjusted, and do you find you need to keep after it? Sorry, new guy here.
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03-29-2017, 08:30 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mid-Mi
Posts: 1,492
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Killer,
Didn't realize that Pro Series kit included the side mounted sway bar. That wdh will do the job once adjusted properly. But when making tight turns it is highly suggested (states to remove when backing) to remove the sway bar or damage can occur, and the limited warranty (which is 10yrs from what I saw, longer than I originally thought it was) would be enough for me to step up to the next level which had integrated sway control and a lifetime warranty.
The Equal-I-Zer 4 way and the Reese SC sway control is the wd bars riding on the L shaped brackets. The SC system actually had a brake pad like material on the bracket that is replaceable. The 4 way also has some bolts in the hitch head for the wd bar pivots that need to be checked for the proper torque if I understand it correctly, that helps control their pivot. Never owned one, but my buddy was very happy with his. One advantage the Reese has is if you decide to change trailers, you can swap the wd bars out for higher or lower rated ones if ever needed. From 6800lb bars- 1500lb bars from what I remember.
Know that even if you stay with the dealer included wdh, it is a tried and proven system that has been around for years.
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03-29-2017, 09:03 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 11,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderlust
I swear by my Equal-i-zer WHD. I don't like the hitches that use the chains to connect the trailer. Equal-i-zer uses bars that set in L-brackets that make for a fixed connection. Equal-i-zer has great customer service, made in America and very easy to install yourself.
This is one area I , personally, would not want skimp on. The connection between your TV and trailer can make getting to your destination safer and a lot more comfortable.
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^^^^ what he said. When I was a newbie looking for a WD hitch (~11yr ago), the brackets for the weight bars made more sense to me than chains. I believe, too, that hitches that use the chains on the weight bars have one or two adjustable friction anti-sway devices. Those devices need to be removed for backing or making tight turns. That is not necessary with the Equal-i-zer brand WD hitch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerIsMe
Thanks Wanderlust. As far as the antisway on the Equalizer, how is it adjusted, and do you find you need to keep after it? Sorry, new guy here.
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There is no adjustment for the anti-sway. You setup the hitch and the tension on the bars that transfer weight to the front axle provide friction in the hitch head at one end and at the L-brackets and the other end; those are the '4-points' for anti-sway.
I've never had a need to 'keep after it' in any way*. For me it has been 'set it and forget it'. I've read a few comments about folks increasing or decreasing the tension on the chains for those types of hitches depending upon if the trailer was loaded or not. I've never done that or thought I needed to do that with my hitch.
* The sockets in the hitch head need to be lubricated periodically. When I delivered trailers for Jayco, I did that about monthly (towing ~5,000mi). Now I do it once or twice a year. I've never lubricated the bars at the L-brackets. I do touch up the weight bars and L-brackets with black spray paint, occasionally.
__________________
Sherm & Terry w/rescue Eydie (min Schnauzer) & Charley (std Poodle)
SOLD:2015 Jay Flight 27RLS, GY Endurance (E), Days: 102 '15, 90 '16, 80 '17, 161 '18, 365+ '20
SOLD: 2006 Ford F350 PSD, 4WD, CC, LB, SRW, Camper pkg., 375,000mi
Full timing: Some will think you're crazy, some will be envious, just enjoy the freedom!
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03-29-2017, 12:43 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Jenningsville
Posts: 280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by need-a-vacation
The Equal-I-Zer 4 way and the Reese SC sway control is the wd bars riding on the L shaped brackets. The SC system actually had a brake pad like material on the bracket that is replaceable. The 4 way also has some bolts in the hitch head for the wd bar pivots that need to be checked for the proper torque if I understand it correctly, that helps control their pivot. Never owned one, but my buddy was very happy with his. One advantage the Reese has is if you decide to change trailers, you can swap the wd bars out for higher or lower rated ones if ever needed. From 6800lb bars- 1500lb bars from what I remember.
Know that even if you stay with the dealer included wdh, it is a tried and proven system that has been around for years.
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The Reese SC looks pretty slick to my inexperienced eyes. I watched some e-trailer videos today (very educational) and the simplicity of that one really jumped out at me. You are right about the brake pad material lining the brackets. Any opinion of it?
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03-29-2017, 12:50 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Jenningsville
Posts: 280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmanAZ
^^^^ what he said. When I was a newbie looking for a WD hitch (~11yr ago), the brackets for the weight bars made more sense to me than chains. I believe, too, that hitches that use the chains on the weight bars have one or two adjustable friction anti-sway devices. Those devices need to be removed for backing or making tight turns. That is not necessary with the Equal-i-zer brand WD hitch.
There is no adjustment for the anti-sway. You setup the hitch and the tension on the bars that transfer weight to the front axle provide friction in the hitch head at one end and at the L-brackets and the other end; those are the '4-points' for anti-sway.
I've never had a need to 'keep after it' in any way*. For me it has been 'set it and forget it'. I've read a few comments about folks increasing or decreasing the tension on the chains for those types of hitches depending upon if the trailer was loaded or not. I've never done that or thought I needed to do that with my hitch.
* The sockets in the hitch head need to be lubricated periodically. When I delivered trailers for Jayco, I did that about monthly (towing ~5,000mi). Now I do it once or twice a year. I've never lubricated the bars at the L-brackets. I do touch up the weight bars and L-brackets with black spray paint, occasionally.
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I can finally see the difference between the chain-style and the "L" brackets and you're right, the brackets make so much more sense. Fewer parts, simpler. The Equal-i-zer and the Reese SC look like the direction I'm heading. It appears they work about the same way - friction at the head and friction at the brackets, both are lightweight, neither requires drilling (which for some reason I'm opposed to). Thanks for the help.
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03-29-2017, 01:33 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mid-Mi
Posts: 1,492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerIsMe
The Reese SC looks pretty slick to my inexperienced eyes. I watched some e-trailer videos today (very educational) and the simplicity of that one really jumped out at me. You are right about the brake pad material lining the brackets. Any opinion of it?
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Haven't owned the SC model, only the Dual Cam. Looked very closely at the SC, but in talking with Reese about our 32 purchase and expecting at least 1300lbs + for the tw, the tech highly suggested to go with the Dual Cam model. One being it is better at preventing/controlling sway, and the wd bars could be swapped to 1700lb ones if my tw exceeded the 1500lb bars.
I was back and forth up to that point though.
The brake pad type material would be nice as it is replaceable if ever needed, BUT I have not heard of anyone wearing out the L brackets on the Equal-I-Zer model that has metal on metal.
Either model is an excellent choice. The Reese does allow the different rated bars to be swapped out while still using the same hitch head. The Equal-I-Zer does not, requiring a whole new system to be purchased if you buy a different trailer. But the Equal-I-Zer is made in the US while the Reese is no longer unless something has changed recently, which I doubt.
Do know that either system does make noise when turning!!! It is normal and the last thing you want to do is grease where the bars contact the L brackets. That would completely defeat the sway control, or the majority of it anyway!!!
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03-29-2017, 02:22 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 11,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by need-a-vacation
snip...
Do know that either system does make noise when turning!!! It is normal and the last thing you want to do is grease where the bars contact the L brackets. That would completely defeat the sway control, or the majority of it anyway!!!
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Ditto on the grease at the L-brackets. It also makes the nice, clean, bars a mess to handle and store.
The design of the L-brackets for the Equal-i-zer was changed a few years ago. The old design used a single set-screw to adjust the height of the 'L' while the new design uses 2 bolts.
When we bought our new trailer about 2 years ago, we bought 2 sets of the new style frame brackets and L-brackets. The new style is significantly beefier and clamps to the A-frame more securely. What's my point? For me, the newer brackets have eliminated the screeching, popping, and all the other scary noises when maneuvering at low speeds (fuel stations, campgrounds, etc.).
__________________
Sherm & Terry w/rescue Eydie (min Schnauzer) & Charley (std Poodle)
SOLD:2015 Jay Flight 27RLS, GY Endurance (E), Days: 102 '15, 90 '16, 80 '17, 161 '18, 365+ '20
SOLD: 2006 Ford F350 PSD, 4WD, CC, LB, SRW, Camper pkg., 375,000mi
Full timing: Some will think you're crazy, some will be envious, just enjoy the freedom!
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03-29-2017, 02:45 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 79
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When I first purchased my trailer I already had a traditional Valley wdh. It had 600 lb. spring bars and no sway control. I previously used it with our big Fleetwood tent trailer. I towed my current trailer home from the dealer and made several camping trips with that setup and never had a problem towing. Once I got around to weighing my tongue I discovered the 600 lb. spring bars were overloaded and bought a Fastway E2 hitch with 800 lb. bars. I have no complaints with this setup. I did find the old style snap up brackets easier to engage and disengage than the spring bars that rest on the L brackets. I did not deal with a separate sway control device. I figured they would not really be that inconvenient since when backing up I always get out and survey the area before proceeding. I personally would have no problem going back to the old style wdh again if I was replacing my current hitch.
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03-29-2017, 07:09 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Jenningsville
Posts: 280
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Everybody's input made me go and dig deeper into the various types of hitches and for a beginner like me I think simple might be better. I'm not schooled on adjustments and "feel" on the road so I think I may be more comfortable right off with a WDH that takes care of me rather than me taking care of it. If I have to spend a few hundred more on a Reese SC or an Equal-i-zer so be it. It seems to be less of a learning curve, and in the scheme of things when I'm spending $24,000 on a travel trailer another $200 is largely insignificant.
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