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Old 04-22-2014, 07:58 AM   #1
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Roadmaster Active Suspension

Well, I promised I would do it, so here is a brief overview of my experience with Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS). For reference, this installation occurred on a bone stock 2012 GMC Sierra, 2WD, 5.4LMG with Tow package; I tow a 2014 28BHBE.

I began searching for something to improve my towing experience before I ever started towing. At first I wasn't that serious because I didn't know what to expect. More of my research began because of DW's Nissan X-Terra's really soft rear suspension. When I got my trailer and hooked it up to my rig, I quickly realized something needed to be done. The rear was squishy and bouncy; all around not a great experience (not terrible either, but could use improvement). So I went back to searching for suspension upgrades.

After much deliberation, I chose RAS. I didn't want air bags because I didn't want to deal with running the lines and having the compressor and in-cab monitoring. If I had installed it the way I wanted, it would've been very expensive. I looked closely at the Hellwig add-a-leaf systems, but I didn't want to change the unloaded vehicle characteristics. Enter RAS; easy installation (VERY easy), progressive spring system that leaves the unloaded handling relatively intact.

Installation, as I said, was VERY easy. I won't cover that, there are plenty of you-tube vids to watch about that.

After I installed it, I noticed an immediate difference in handling. The first thing the RAS did was greatly reduce body roll. I took it out for a test drive after installation and it was a completely different truck. It hugs the turns very well and still has great road manners. Just be sure to re-measure and re-adjust after about 200 miles or so. After that, you're GTG.

That's all fine and well, but now to the real reason I installed them, the towing. Before I installed RAS, I had my WDH dialed in just about perfect, or at least as good as I could get. After installation, and according to my hitch manufacturer, I had to start over again with WDH setup. So I began tweaking... and tweaking... and tweaking... Finally last weekend, I think I've just about got it.

The sag in the rear end is noticeably reduced, the bounce is virtually eliminated (which is what started this whole thing for me), and the truck handles much better while towing. Is it a DRAMATIC difference? That would be hard for me to answer affirmatively. But there is definitely a perceivable difference. Overall, there is a lot less "slop" in the rear end of the truck (loaded or not) and I feel a lot more confident being near my maximum payload.

Would I recommend you install RAS on your truck? Yes. If you are towing near your maximums, this system will help you control that load and teach your truck some manners (so to speak). Of all the options out there, it is not the cheapest, but I believe it was the best for me at this time and it did exactly what I needed it to do.
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:33 PM   #2
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Bob, thanks for the update on the RAS system. Glad to hear it works so well for your application. My Timbrens did wonders for the sag I had due to my 1400lb tongue weight and helped with the bounce, but I still have more bounce than I want. I may have to take another look at the RAS system by watching some videos on it. Appreciate you getting back to us on this.
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:38 PM   #3
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One of the best things I did for my Excursion towing experience.
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:42 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by TCNASHVILLE View Post
Bob, thanks for the update on the RAS system. Glad to hear it works so well for your application. My Timbrens did wonders for the sag I had due to my 1400lb tongue weight and helped with the bounce, but I still have more bounce than I want. I may have to take another look at the RAS system by watching some videos on it. Appreciate you getting back to us on this.

My next upgrade will be blistein HD shocks. I almost did those instead of the RAS to take out some of the oscillation. I ended up with the RAS because I wanted the biggest impact item installed first. I looked VERY close at the Timbrens as well...
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:59 PM   #5
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Can you tell me where you purchased them and an approximate cost? I've got a 2013 Ecoboost and we pick up our 2014 Jayco Whitehawk on Saturday. Thank you for your insight.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:07 PM   #6
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i bought mine directly from Roadmaster. They had a group buy discount through the F150 forum at 1 time. Don't quote me n the price but i think i paid $260ish plus shipping $300(?). I put them in myself. I know my dealership wanted $500 installed, but they were simple too do.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:57 PM   #7
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Yeah, don't pay someone to install these. I've seen light bulbs that are harder to install!

I got mine from Summit Racing for $379, IIRC I got them shipped for free. Probably could have gotten them cheaper on a group buy like jdorant, but I'm not a member where that was available, and I wanted them RFN, so I just ordered them. It was a standard price, so unless you can get in on a group buy, just get them from a reputable vendor.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:40 PM   #8
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I bought mine off Amazon for a Tundra. Towing a 39' 11,000 lb TT Eagle 338rlts. Just about max for the Tundra though. Probably going to buy a 3/4 ton next.
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:44 PM   #9
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X2 on the review... got mine from summit as well.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:05 PM   #10
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I just installed mine lastnight, and you're all correct, very easy to install. Somebody mentioned that you need to adjust them after 200 miles, is that correct? Also wondering if everyone needed to change their WD hitch settings?
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:29 PM   #11
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Love mine, had it for 3 trouble free years. Helps the handling when not towing too, ride is much better.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitehawkmn View Post
I just installed mine lastnight, and you're all correct, very easy to install. Somebody mentioned that you need to adjust them after 200 miles, is that correct? Also wondering if everyone needed to change their WD hitch settings?
Yes, you should check them again a short time after installation, they will "break in" a little. It doesn't mention this anywhere in the instructions IIRC, but it needs to be done. Mine were a few turns out of adjustment after the first week of driving around, but since then they haven't moved.

I can't speak for others, but I reconfigured my hitch for 2 reasons 1) my hitch manufacturer recommended it after any suspension install, and 2) I wasn't entirely happy with the way it was setup in the first place.
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
Yes, you should check them again a short time after installation, they will "break in" a little. It doesn't mention this anywhere in the instructions IIRC, but it needs to be done. Mine were a few turns out of adjustment after the first week of driving around, but since then they haven't moved.

I can't speak for others, but I reconfigured my hitch for 2 reasons 1) my hitch manufacturer recommended it after any suspension install, and 2) I wasn't entirely happy with the way it was setup in the first place.
Did you need to remove the tires and start from scratch?
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:10 AM   #14
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Did you need to remove the tires and start from scratch?

I did not, but you may want to put jack stands under anyway. You may have a tendency to lean on the truck a bit, so you want it to be stable. I have actually cheated a little bit and used my tongue jack. I have to go pretty high to unload my WDH spring bars, so I just went a little higher and adjusted my springs.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:34 AM   #15
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Based on the reviews in read here and on other forums I was going to add RAS to my truck, but there's a several week national back order for the Tundra and I wanted/needed something before heading out on a 3,500 mile trip. I added Sumo Springs though, and a world of difference - the bounce is virtually eliminated.
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Old 07-03-2015, 12:05 AM   #16
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I dunno guys, RAS sounds like complete BS to me, the description from their website is full of technical jargon but no real content:

"Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) overcomes the limitations of passive suspension by introducing mechanically active suspension to the rear leaf springs thereby conquering the traditional three-way load vs handling vs comfort conflict. Once fitted, RAS has the ability to store, dissipate and introduce energy to the system. Being mechanical its action is immediate, unlike hydraulics or air which take time to react. This immediate action is also variable, working in exact counter proportion to force applied, hence the term active"

I am not a mechanical engineer, but RAS mechanism looks to be a helper coil spring instead of a helper leaf spring. The coils of the spring look to be uniform in diameter and spacing, not even variable rate. I put a set of Hellwig helper springs on my old truck and, properly adjusted (torque on the u-bolt), they did not affect my unloaded ride. The would only kick-in with weight in the bed or on the hitch. They cost me $60 delivered and were installed in 15 minutes. They do need to be adjusted properly else they will significantly stiffen your rear suspension.
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Old 10-04-2019, 02:27 AM   #17
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I am not a mechanical engineer, but RAS mechanism looks to be a helper coil spring instead of a helper leaf spring. The coils of the spring look to be uniform in diameter and spacing, not even variable rate. I put a set of Hellwig helper springs on my old truck and, properly adjusted (torque on the u-bolt), they did not affect my unloaded ride. The would only kick-in with weight in the bed or on the hitch. They cost me $60 delivered and were installed in 15 minutes. They do need to be adjusted properly else they will significantly stiffen your rear suspension.

(waking up an old thread)


This is exactly what I've been puzzling over. I've been trying to figure out how the R.A.S. is functionally different from other helper springs or air bags.



Their website also says "Our system absorbs and dissipates load force energy..." but springs don't absorb and dissipate energy, they store and release it. Like you said, it seems to be just a passive helper spring.
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