Screw in tire, wheel stuck on hub!

**Crabman** · 10-22-2013, 03:07 PM

OK so I`ve been losing air in my right rear tire on the 2500, a Firestone Transforce. It turns out there is a screw in the middle of the tread. I figure I will pull the tire and take it to the garage to be repaired so I don`t have to wait. I`ve never had these tires off since I got the truck July of 0`12 so they are due for rotating but that`s another story. I jack it up, take off the lugs with my air impact wrench and they are VERY tight, would have been a challenge to get off with the truck tools along side a lonely road at night. That`s not the worst part though, the wheel rim is stuck to the hub and will not pull off despite pulling, kicking from the other side and tapping with a maul. I even tried lowering the jack and rocking the truck back and forth with the lugs loose, all to no avail. This is a first for me, a wheel that will not come off.

I guess I`ll just take the truck to the garage and let them put it up on the lift and deal with it, I will no doubt have to get the other side broke loose as well or I would be in a fix with a road side flat. BTW the tires are date coded in 2011 and were basically new when I got the truck so they have not been on the truck that long.

lx22f/c · 10-22-2013, 03:19 PM

If you have aluminum rims it is a very common problem. If rotated on a regular basis then you minimize the problem. Good luck

bigbird · 10-22-2013, 03:19 PM

Try doing some donuts. Just kidding.

**Crabman** · 10-22-2013, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lx22f/c

If you have aluminum rims it is a very common problem. If rotated on a regular basis then you minimize the problem. Good luck

They are the aluminum rims, probably been at least a year and a half since they were last off......

max2bob · 10-22-2013, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lx22f/c

If you have aluminum rims it is a very common problem. If rotated on a regular basis then you minimize the problem. Good luck

that hits it right on the head. what I do on the vehicles here with this problem is a little film of say dry graphite between the wheel and hub interface. be careful of course of not getting any on the rotor surface! I usually hand apply instead of spray to eliminate getting anything at all on the rotor surface or pads. and yes, it takes quite a bit of persuasion to initially lock them loose.

Jagiven · 10-22-2013, 04:21 PM

I can hear the reactions already, but this is what I do, to loosen the wheels on my T. I loosen the lug nut, then take the vehicle for a drive around the block. Only once have I had to go around the block the other way to loosen the wheel.

Best of Luck

**Crabman** · 10-22-2013, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagiven

I can hear the reactions already, but this is what I do, to loosen the wheels on my T. I loosen the lug nut, then take the vehicle for a drive around the block. Only once have I had to go around the block the other way to loosen the wheel.

Best of Luck

I tried diving the truck back and forth about 10 feet each way with the lugs loose, guess I did not go far enough!

33 RLDS · 10-22-2013, 06:14 PM

I have the same problem with my 2500 Avalanche. I had to goose the gas with the truck jacked up and then hit the brake and they pop loose. The lug nuts were on but loose. Of course that would not work with the fronts unless your in 4wd and the whole truck is on jack stands. But for those I drove up the driveway a bit with the lugs loose and that worked. I used anti-seize on the hubs and where the wheel makes contact and have not had them off since but hope it will work..

mtelkhntr · 10-22-2013, 06:31 PM

My brother and I were headed into hunting camp late one night and had a flat on the left rear of his '03 2500 quadcab. As the thread implies, with the nuts off, the wheel wouldn't budge. I put the nuts back on part ways then took a hammer and rapped on the back of the rim on couple times to get it to break loose. Being 75 miles and a night away from the nearest tire place we had no choice. In the end beating on the rim with a hammer was a risk we took to get it off anyway we could but as luck would have it, we didn't bend or break it. A couple days later, however, we were in town buying new tires.

tinlizzie23 · 10-22-2013, 07:09 PM

I use a thin film of TriFlow (teflon) applied with a finger anywhere I want long lasting lubrication, including lug threads. Never have a problem getting things loose after application.

Camping Couple · 10-22-2013, 07:28 PM

Being near saltwater and dissimilar metals mated together can be a pain without proper lubrication.

Doug · 10-22-2013, 08:13 PM

Sounds like you have some great advice already Crabman.
You might have to go further than 10 ft to break these bad boys apart.
I've had good luck with Rust Buster penetrating oil on old parts, but not the same thing as you're dealing with.
Once I got them apart, I really like the copper looking never seize or a good choice of lubricant between the hub and wheel.

A good reminder in this post for all of us to make sure we break out tires off by hand and rotate/lubricate where necessary.
I carry a helper pipe with me along with a block to go under my OEM jack. My 2" lift kit surprised me the 1st time I went to rotate tires.

Not a bad exercise to go through at home and not on the road. I am sure you'll figure it out.

Keep us posted on your outcome.

Best regards,
Doug

Tail_gunner · 10-22-2013, 09:39 PM

Had a friend with the same problem on his F-150, right rear wouldn't come off so we could repair the brakes. I took a torch and heated the hub and then gave the hub a few good smacks with a hammer. Either the heat or the shocks of the hammer or a combination did the trick. Maybe some penetrating oil in the interface of the hub and wheel might help.

**Crabman** · 10-24-2013, 09:07 AM

Well I got it off after a few taps of the sledge with a block of wood between the sledge and the rim. Its now at my favorite garage getting repaired, a one man, old style full service gas station/repair shop. Also has the cheapest tire prices around, I suppose due to his low overhead.

**Crabman** · 10-24-2013, 02:41 PM

All fixed up now, tires rotated. The driver side rear was stuck just like the passenger side but got it off again with a little persuasion. Front wheels were not stuck. Took steps to make sure this will not happen again and torqued the lug nuts at a more reasonable and negotiable tightness.....Now I need to change the oil.....

Doug · 10-24-2013, 02:48 PM

Glad you got her all fixed up Crabman.

Doug

clutch · 10-24-2013, 09:49 PM

Glad you got the job done. Would a piece of wax paper between the alloy wheels and steel hub help prevent the sticking problem?

**Crabman** · 10-25-2013, 04:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clutch

Glad you got the job done. Would a piece of wax paper between the alloy wheels and steel hub help prevent the sticking problem?

That`s a good idea, I`m sure it would work.

LiftedAWDAstro · 10-26-2013, 06:18 AM

I use never seize between the hubs and wheels on all my vehicles, especially with alloy wheels. There is too much salt on the roads to not use it!

greenenvy1 · 10-26-2013, 09:10 AM

I agree with the never seize. Use that on my dually and have had no issues getting wheels off the hubs.

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