Setting up the Equal-i-zer

[olyelr]

Originally Posted by ExxWhy

A smidge nose down is better than up for stability. You'll need to lower the hangers a notch to keep the same angle on the bars.

Maybe I will try that then. I have room on the hangers as well.

Originally Posted by MIFL19H

Olyelr...

Tagging on to our conversation in your Tow Rig thread, my trip back home on Sunday with my current setup the rig towed really well... I am happy with it. This was our 3rd and longest trip (250 miles round trip) and the first one I was not white knuckling it except during a bad Thunderstorm with lots of wind when we left.

Regarding the bend in the arms... The 12k arms are definetly thicker then the 10k arms so I would not be surprised if you got some bend in them but as others have said that does not mean it is a bad thing but might be best to call Equalizer about that.

I dropped my brackets down to have 1 hole on top as when I had it with 2 holes the bars were bent up pretty good and not parallel to the trailer frame and you could feel it was to tight when towing i.e. too much tension the rear would not flex over bumps or bridges.

If you drop the brackets it will take the bend out of them, if it takes too much add a washer, this makes less radical of an adjustment.

I was fighting to make my setup work with the brackets in the middle but finally dropped them which took too much off for the sway to work like I wanted then added a washer and that is where I am now.

You'll figure it out... It's taken me about 700 miles now to find this setup and get comfortable with it. I also have my Air Bags to work into the equation but I can say I am glad I added them, gives me more adjustment and I feel more stability with such a high 4X4 and high trailer.

We have quite a trip planned for us this weekend, so I will be having my first major test coming up. Right now, my bars a perfectly level with the trailer frame, so I don't really see any reason to drop them unless I drop the hitch also.

I am considering air bags, even though I don't have an issue with squatting. Mainly because my truck has a softer suspension system then a normal 2500 Ram, so I think the porpoising effect may be more of an issue with my truck... which bags should help combat this issue, if I have it.

Originally Posted by Swinepartner

This thread is timely. I got my weights this weekend and see where I can put a little more on my front axle. So between reading this and watching the Equalizer video on YouTube, I have a good idea of how to do it. Good stuff here.

How much more weight until you reach the unloaded weight of front axle?

I would start with adding one washer and see what that does for you.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by olyelr

And just think, my truck is 2" taller than yours! I cant hardly look into the back of my bed hahahah. What size drop do you have? I still have 1 more hole i can use.

A touch nose down, eh? That would make it better?

Personally, for my setup, I'd rather be about an inch nose down, mas or menos. Not to say that will or won't work well for you. What I'm going for is more tongue weight because of the length of the trailer; long trailers are supposed to tow better at the higher end of the recommended tongue weight range. And since I don't have to worry about payload at all, I'd rather get the best ride I can get.

My current hitch is a Fastway E2 (the "cheap seats" section of Progressive Manufacturing's product line) 1000/10000. Many problems with that hitch for my setup. BUT it's NOT a bad hitch at all, just not quite right for my specific application. It's a round bar system and an my trailer has an underslung or inverted coupler (coupler mounted to bottom of frame) AND it's under spec'd for my trailer and how I load it.

I would imagine with the Power Wagon, you're going to be fighting suspension travel quite a bit. The distance that the rear of the truck drops affects the geometry of the hitch head and the spring bars. Also, with the softer rear suspension, it will give (drop) more instead of causing more of the "teeter-totter" effect that unloads the steer axle. That's probably why you're only getting an inch or less of rise out of the front of the truck when hooked up without WDH engaged.

If you're thinking of adding suspension components to limit the rear sag, keep in mind that you'll want to start your hitch setup (measurements) from scratch after you change anything on the suspension. This is (or was) in the instructions, and was reiterated to me by a Progressive Manufacturing employee when I was adding suspension components to my old truck.

[olyelr]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

... Also, with the softer rear suspension, it will give (drop) more instead of causing more of the "teeter-totter" effect that unloads the steer axle. That's probably why you're only getting an inch or less of rise out of the front of the truck when hooked up without WDH engaged.

Ahh, yeah that kind of makes sense to me. Never really thought of that. Although, that being said, it sounds like many were only getting an inch or less of rise in the front anyway...

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

If you're thinking of adding suspension components to limit the rear sag, keep in mind that you'll want to start your hitch setup (measurements) from scratch after you change anything on the suspension. This is (or was) in the instructions, and was reiterated to me by a Progressive Manufacturing employee when I was adding suspension components to my old truck.

I also remember reading that in the instructions. My wife's Yukon has the factory air shocks in the rear (which are marvelous might I add), which are supposed to be disabled while measuring for the WDH. I often wonder if the dealer ever did that when they set the hitch up for her vehicle. It towed wonderfully, anyway, so whatever they did must have been fairly correct.

At this point in time I do not plan on changing suspension (or adding components). The truck sits nice and level when towing the trailer, and the hitch/bars look to be perfectly setup as far as aesthetics go.

The only thing I may consider is adding bags, if the rear springs "feel" too soft while towing. And of course, that will not change the ride height at all when unloaded. And I would not pump them up and lift the suspension with them either... just stiffen it up.

[Swinepartner]

Originally Posted by olyelr

How much more weight until you reach the unloaded weight of front axle?

I would start with adding one washer and see what that does for you.

I'm about 1100# heavier on my drive axle, so I have a few hundred I can move up front.

Just off hand, is there a certain type of washer to use?

[olyelr]

Originally Posted by Swinepartner

I'm about 1100# heavier on my drive axle, so I have a few hundred I can move up front.

Just off hand, is there a certain type of washer to use?

Well, what about the front axle? Thats is what the WDH is all about... getting the front axle weight back to unloaded spec.

About the washer... Not that Im aware of. I found one in my bolts bin that was about the same thickness, but quite a bit larger around (same size inner hole). That seems to be working just fine for me with no issue.

[Swinepartner]

Here is my burb and camper w/ bars hooked up. Everything but food and clothes.
http://[URL=http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/corndog08/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/BCD34DC4-12FD-4669-9964-B340F60F12EC_zps1rfk7c1z.jpg.html][/URL][/IMG]


This is my burb empty, full tank and just me

[/URL][/IMG]

And this is my door placard

[/URL][/IMG]

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Swinepartner

Here is my burb and camper w/ bars hooked up. Everything but food and clothes.
http://[URL=http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/corndog08/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/BCD34DC4-12FD-4669-9964-B340F60F12EC_zps1rfk7c1z.jpg.html][/URL][/IMG]


This is my burb empty, full tank and just me

[/URL][/IMG]

And this is my door placard

[/URL][/IMG]

Looks pretty close on that rear axle. Not all that surprising in a 'burb. Also looks like you could stand to get a little more up on the steer axle.

[olyelr]

Also, it is quite odd that the burb weighs exactly 6400 pounds, and exactly half of the weight is placed on each of the axles hahah. Almost unbelievable.

[Swinepartner]

Originally Posted by olyelr

Also, it is quite odd that the burb weighs exactly 6400 pounds, and exactly half of the weight is placed on each of the axles hahah. Almost unbelievable.

I thought the same thing. But was just me on the front scales and I did have about 50# of "stuff" in the back of the burb.

[ExxWhy]

I ran through the scales yesterday and things weren't quite what I expected.

Truck alone (Excursion)

3480 Front
3920 Rear

NO WD

2780 Front
6140 Rear
7160 Trailer

With WD as I set it with the tape measure

3140 Front
5620 Rear
7300 Trailer

And a second pass through with the bars as tight as I dare.

3320 Front
5380 Rear
7380 Trailer


Shocked to find out the tongue weight is 1500 lbs with an 8600 lb trailer! I'd like to get that a bit lower, have to think of some creative packing. Might just move the batteries to the rear.

I need to spend some $$$. Receiver is rated for 1250. The Equalizer is a 1200 lb model. Still researching my options.

Good news is it tows great even with the initial setup. I thought it felt a little light in the steering after driving it for longer than my original 10 minute test drive and the scale proved that out.

This is a prime example of why it's a good idea to go to the scale so you know for sure what you have.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by ExxWhy

snip.....This is a prime example of why it's a good idea to go to the scale so you know for sure what you have.

X2

Bob

[SkyBound]

Go to a specialty hardware store and buy the grade 8 washers. They are gold in colour and match the factory washers exactly so I think that's what they use to begin with. Those washers have a tremendous amount of compression on them and I have heard of cheaper, softer metals compressing. I am running 7 washers in my 10K Equalizer hitch head. The max allowed is 8.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by ExxWhy

I ran through the scales yesterday and things weren't quite what I expected.

Truck alone (Excursion)

3480 Front
3920 Rear

NO WD

2780 Front
6140 Rear
7160 Trailer

With WD as I set it with the tape measure

3140 Front
5620 Rear
7300 Trailer

And a second pass through with the bars as tight as I dare.

3320 Front
5380 Rear
7380 Trailer


Shocked to find out the tongue weight is 1500 lbs with an 8600 lb trailer! I'd like to get that a bit lower, have to think of some creative packing. Might just move the batteries to the rear.

I need to spend some $$$. Receiver is rated for 1250. The Equalizer is a 1200 lb model. Still researching my options.

Good news is it tows great even with the initial setup. I thought it felt a little light in the steering after driving it for longer than my original 10 minute test drive and the scale proved that out.

This is a prime example of why it's a good idea to go to the scale so you know for sure what you have.

Those are certainly some eye opening results!

Does Ford specify returning 100% of the weight back to the front axle? Just curious...

I was surprised to see how much your trailer unloaded the front axle without WDH! A couple hundred pounds I could see, but 700 lbs seems excessive!

[Hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by ExxWhy

I ran through the scales yesterday and things weren't quite what I expected.

Truck alone (Excursion)

3480 Front
3920 Rear

NO WD

2780 Front
6140 Rear
7160 Trailer

With WD as I set it with the tape measure

3140 Front
5620 Rear
7300 Trailer

And a second pass through with the bars as tight as I dare.

3320 Front
5380 Rear
7380 Trailer


Shocked to find out the tongue weight is 1500 lbs with an 8600 lb trailer! I'd like to get that a bit lower, have to think of some creative packing. Might just move the batteries to the rear.

I need to spend some $$$. Receiver is rated for 1250. The Equalizer is a 1200 lb model. Still researching my options.

Good news is it tows great even with the initial setup. I thought it felt a little light in the steering after driving it for longer than my original 10 minute test drive and the scale proved that out.

This is a prime example of why it's a good idea to go to the scale so you know for sure what you have.

Truck rear axle 3920 with no trailer connected. Truck rear axle 6140 with trailer connected and no WDH. Doesn't that make the tongue weight 2220? 6140 minus 3920 equals 2220. Am I doing the math wrong?

[ExxWhy]

Originally Posted by Hohenwald48

Truck rear axle 3920 with no trailer connected. Truck rear axle 6140 with trailer connected and no WDH. Doesn't that make the tongue weight 2220? 6140 minus 3920 equals 2220. Am I doing the math wrong?

Your math is correct, but that doesn't take into account the weight of the truck that has shifted to the rear. Truck weighs 7400 by itself. With the trailer, there is 8920 sitting on the truck wheels. 8920-7400 = 1520

[ExxWhy]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Those are certainly some eye opening results!

Does Ford specify returning 100% of the weight back to the front axle? Just curious...

I was surprised to see how much your trailer unloaded the front axle without WDH! A couple hundred pounds I could see, but 700 lbs seems excessive!

As best I can find from reading various internet sources, older than 2010 Fords say get as close to 100% as you can. I'd like to get that extra 100 lbs eventually. It feels very stable as is, 2 fingers on the wheel.

700 surprised me. I was even wondering if the exact spot on the scale would change it, but I doubt it. The scales need to be able to read correctly no matter where the load is on the scale. I guess the 137" wheelbase has something to do with it.

Hopefully the OP will be back with some numbers for his thread. Didn't mean to hijack.

[Roadrower]

Hi Folks,

Traveling with guests for the first time soon.

Our Greyhawk cab is very comfortable while driving, but is it okay to drive with windows open in the living space, like the dinette window?

We do have a covered Fantastic Fan that I understand we can leave open and run while underway, and I also understand we can run AC with generator while on the road. Just looking for a little air flow in the living area while on back roads.

Can't imagine these angled windows would be a good thing to open on the highway.

Thanks!

[olyelr]

Originally Posted by ExxWhy

.

Hopefully the OP will be back with some numbers for his thread. Didn't mean to hijack.

Ha, hijack all you want, it dosnt bother me a bit . Its information that all helps.

Unfortunately i havnt got weighed yet.

But, while you could stand to get some more weight on your front axle (by the numbers), i say if it tows good then so be it. I mean, what is the end result? For the trailer to tow good, or the numbers to be spot on?

It does look like you are overweighting your hitch, though.

[Chrislorl]

Hi all, If you don't mind just a quick question. I have been running my WD for a while, pulls great but I would like to get the front down slightly. What is the best way to make a minimal adjustment to bring the front down? I know it seems like a basic question but after several months and adjustments and getting it to a place where it feels almost perfect I do not want to throw it way off. I appreciate the help.

[olyelr]

Originally Posted by Chrislorl

Hi all, If you don't mind just a quick question. I have been running my WD for a while, pulls great but I would like to get the front down slightly. What is the best way to make a minimal adjustment to bring the front down? I know it seems like a basic question but after several months and adjustments and getting it to a place where it feels almost perfect I do not want to throw it way off. I appreciate the help.

Just make sure you drop the hooks on the trailer frame the same amount as the hitch head and nothing will change as far as weight distribution goes.