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Old 06-04-2014, 05:26 PM   #1
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Towing an Eagle 328 RLTS/Another hitch question

Towing with an 02 F-250 crew cab 4x4 short bed. Reese equalizer hitch with #1200 bars. Have 5 lengths of chain and trucks sits 1/2" higher in front and 1" lower in rear. Trunion bars slant very slightly down and the hitch head is slanted back maybe two notches. I am pretty happy with the set up as far as what I have read (Crabman). However, there is no real sway, but a lot of reaction when pushed from behind by approaching trucks and cars and of course cross winds. I do not have a tongue weight yet, but based on this info, does anybody else tow with this combo? I am thinking I need the #1500 bars even though the weight seems to be distributed OK. I am not sure if heavier bars will help control things better, or if the #1200 bars are OK. I think the hitch is close to #1200 but I do get the truck pretty level with them. I am thinking I can get 6 chain lengths and the same lift with the #1500 bars and also gain more pressure on my sway cams.

I am not sure if it tows great and I am not used to it yet, or if it tows terrible and I am just learning to deal with it and compensate. I have only pulled it maybe 400 miles and I really seem to have to "drive" it.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:23 AM   #2
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You can add a sway control bar that is adjustable. This is a separate part that is mounted on the hitch and trailer frame.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:51 AM   #3
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That's a looooooong trailer, and it's going to catch a lot of wind - especially from passing trucks. You may even want to use 2 sway bars!
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:52 AM   #4
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No matter what you do, you're always going to catch that wind and will feel it somehow or another. It doesn't matter what kind of hitch you have (or if you have a 5th wheel), when that wind hits you, you'll feel it, and you'll still get sucked into the vortex of a passing truck. The important thing is to keep your truck and trailer in a straight line (no sway) If you're not swaying now, I wouldn't worry about it.

That said, it should be easy to move up to 1,500lb bars. With a trailer that size, 1,500 won't be too big and will give you a little more adjustability than just maxing out your 1,200lb bars.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:27 AM   #5
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Or you could get a Hensley Arrow. I had a standard setup and then got an Arrow. Night and day difference! The Hensley simply cannot sway it is mechanically impossible.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:37 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bigiron View Post
snip..... I am thinking I need the #1500 bars....snip
Possibly, but I would hold off on spending any more "hitch" money until you visit a CAT scale...., this visit will tell you everything you need to know about dialing in your TV/TT combination based on your personal loading habits.

CAT scale TV/TT how-to: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3871

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Old 06-05-2014, 09:32 AM   #7
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No matter what you do, you're always going to catch that wind and will feel it somehow or another. It doesn't matter what kind of hitch you have (or if you have a 5th wheel), when that wind hits you, you'll feel it, and you'll still get sucked into the vortex of a passing truck. The important thing is to keep your truck and trailer in a straight line (no sway) If you're not swaying now, I wouldn't worry about it.

That said, it should be easy to move up to 1,500lb bars. With a trailer that size, 1,500 won't be too big and will give you a little more adjustability than just maxing out your 1,200lb bars.
Thank you for the insight. Yes I do get sucked in, but no real noticeable sway and the truck does stay in line for the most part. Other than the wind effects, that is all I seem to be experiencing now. This is the first travel trailer I have pulled so it is all new to me. I have pulled flat beds and put myself thought college driving a tractor trailer, but those are different animals. I will get a hitch weight and then see where I am then maybe up the size of tha bars.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:34 AM   #8
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Possibly, but I would hold off on spending any more "hitch" money until you visit a CAT scale...., this visit will tell you everything you need to know about dialing in your TV/TT combination based on your personal loading habits.

CAT scale TV/TT how-to: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3871

Bob
Great advice. From others I have talked to I am also being told to get weights first before spending money for no reason. I really think I need to make a few hitch adjustments as well. I will get some weights this weekend.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:38 AM   #9
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Or you could get a Hensley Arrow. I had a standard setup and then got an Arrow. Night and day difference! The Hensley simply cannot sway it is mechanically impossible.
I agree. I have studied them closely. However, due to the PRICE, I want to make absolutely sure what I have now absolutely will not make me happy before I make that jump. I really plan to move into a fifth wheel, but wanted to start with a trailer because it is less expensive, and it will give exoperience into what we really want and need before jumping up to a fifth wheel.
However, if i planned to trailer indefinitely, the Hensley would be the way to go.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:43 AM   #10
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I tow with F250 4x4 and Equalizer hitch with 12K bars and it's the best pulling setup I have ever pulled. I added timbren springs to the truck. Passing trucks do not move me at all.
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:32 AM   #11
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I tow with F250 4x4 and Equalizer hitch with 12K bars and it's the best pulling setup I have ever pulled. I added timbren springs to the truck. Passing trucks do not move me at all.
I have also looked into the equalizer hitches as well. I get about a 50/50 ratio compared to the Reese Straight Line which I have. The Reese came with the trailer, so I am working with it for now. How does the factory sway control work on your F-250? Mine is an '02, so no modern tech there. Do the Timbrens seem to make a difference? I have read about them, but not convinced I have enough roll for them to be effective.
Your trailer is pretty much identical to mine, except your front slide is the bed and mine is the wardrobe. What is your hitch weight loaded?
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:38 AM   #12
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I have also looked into the equalizer hitches as well. I get about a 50/50 ratio compared to the Reese Straight Line which I have. The Reese came with the trailer, so I am working with it for now. How does the factory sway control work on your F-250? Mine is an '02, so no modern tech there. Do the Timbrens seem to make a difference? I have read about them, but not convinced I have enough roll for them to be effective.
Your trailer is pretty much identical to mine, except your front slide is the bed and mine is the wardrobe. What is your hitch weight loaded?
This is my second big TT with Equalizer hitches. I have owned most of the hitch types out there at one point in time.

I can pass trucks or have them pass me with one hand on the wheel, I don't have any sway with my setup so there is nothing for the truck to correct or it's doing it so well as I don't notice it.

The timbrens do make a difference in hitching and unhitching. Without the timbrens the trailer/truck has to be moved up and down a significant amount to hitch/unhitch. With them it sits on the timbrens and that's a far as it's going down. It makes the hitch up much faster. The ride is not as good with them but the stability is better. The transfer of road conditions is much quicker to feel but the event duration is much shorter. What I mean is when you hit a bumb you get bumped quickly but it's over quickly. Without them you get a bumb and then you ride a wave for a few seconds as the suspension movements settle back out.

I have no idea what my loaded hitch weight is but I know I am setup correctly based on measurments from wheel well to ground on all four tires.

I have pulled 4 TT over the last 38 years and the longer/heavier they are the easier they pull. Our shortest was 19 feet and with a 1/2 ton truck and a chain style WDH I would almost start drinking again after pulling it anywhere. Next was 30 feet with the same sytle hitch and the add on sway control and my decision to not drink remaind in tack, but not by much. Next came 32 feet and the Equalizer.......amazing change but with the exception of wind. That trailer was light weight and wind had it's way with it. We would skip windy conditions if at all possible. This 338RLTS at 39 feet is the best so far. I upgraded the tires to Load range E and added wet bolts to the moryde suspension and timbrens to the truck. Could not be happier.
Your trailer is heavy and long it should pull very well.

Good luck.
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:40 PM   #13
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I tow a 2013 334RBTS which is similar size and weight to the 328. I found this trailer is really sensitive to weigh distribution. My fresh tanks are in the rear. If those are even half full, trailer is all over the road. We have a rear bunkhouse which is a great place to toss stuff, problem is makes the trailer sway really bad when anything is back there. My tongue weight is 1,100 lbs so we have to pile everything around the island which is over the axles. Another thing is Jayco like everyone else puts Chinese junk tires on these units. Damn side walls are so weak. Don't care what the load rating is, these tires are garbage. Point is weak sidewalls make trailers sway. I would check loading habits, keep anything heavy over axles, travel with empty tanks if possible, put name brand tires on it with heaviest rating you can buy, then visit the CAT scale. I run 1200 lb bars on my single rear wheel F250 on #5 link. As long as we pack correctly she stays straight.
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:23 PM   #14
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I tow a 2013 334RBTS which is similar size and weight to the 328. I found this trailer is really sensitive to weigh distribution. My fresh tanks are in the rear. If those are even half full, trailer is all over the road. We have a rear bunkhouse which is a great place to toss stuff, problem is makes the trailer sway really bad when anything is back there. My tongue weight is 1,100 lbs so we have to pile everything around the island which is over the axles. Another thing is Jayco like everyone else puts Chinese junk tires on these units. Damn side walls are so weak. Don't care what the load rating is, these tires are garbage. Point is weak sidewalls make trailers sway. I would check loading habits, keep anything heavy over axles, travel with empty tanks if possible, put name brand tires on it with heaviest rating you can buy, then visit the CAT scale. I run 1200 lb bars on my single rear wheel F250 on #5 link. As long as we pack correctly she stays straight.
Thanks for the info. My fresh water tank is about 1/3 full, so I will drain it next time we leave. Good advice on the tires, today I bought a set of 16" HiSpec aluminum wheels and 10 ply tires. I will have them swapped out by next week. I have known my local tire dealer for 30 or so years and when I called him, he fired off a half dozen pics of torn fenders, fender flares, body work and so on. He said he does a set or two every week and talked me completely out of the 10 ply 15" replacements into the 16" load range E. Its a shame Jayco puts these underated, undersized Chinese junk tires out there and I am glad I appreciate the heads up.
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Old 06-06-2014, 07:29 PM   #15
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I tow with F250 4x4 and Equalizer hitch with 12K bars and it's the best pulling setup I have ever pulled. I added Timbren springs to the truck. Passing trucks do not move me at all.
X2 on the Timbrens. I have the same truck as Eldermike and the Timbrens made a huge difference. My tongue weight is 1400lbs and hitch up is much easier. My hitch is a 2.5in Reese Titan shank with 1500lb spring bars. I have a little "bounce" now and then, but virtually no sway.
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:45 PM   #16
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Equilizer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by eldermike View Post
This is my second big TT with Equalizer hitches. I have owned most of the hitch types out there at one point in time.

I can pass trucks or have them pass me with one hand on the wheel, I don't have any sway with my setup so there is nothing for the truck to correct or it's doing it so well as I don't notice it.

The timbrens do make a difference in hitching and unhitching. Without the timbrens the trailer/truck has to be moved up and down a significant amount to hitch/unhitch. With them it sits on the timbrens and that's a far as it's going down. It makes the hitch up much faster. The ride is not as good with them but the stability is better. The transfer of road conditions is much quicker to feel but the event duration is much shorter. What I mean is when you hit a bumb you get bumped quickly but it's over quickly. Without them you get a bumb and then you ride a wave for a few seconds as the suspension movements settle back out.

I have no idea what my loaded hitch weight is but I know I am setup correctly based on measurments from wheel well to ground on all four tires.

I have pulled 4 TT over the last 38 years and the longer/heavier they are the easier they pull. Our shortest was 19 feet and with a 1/2 ton truck and a chain style WDH I would almost start drinking again after pulling it anywhere. Next was 30 feet with the same sytle hitch and the add on sway control and my decision to not drink remaind in tack, but not by much. Next came 32 feet and the Equalizer.......amazing change but with the exception of wind. That trailer was light weight and wind had it's way with it. We would skip windy conditions if at all possible. This 338RLTS at 39 feet is the best so far. I upgraded the tires to Load range E and added wet bolts to the moryde suspension and timbrens to the truck. Could not be happier.
Your trailer is heavy and long it should pull very well.

Good luck.
Thanks for the idea on the timbrens. I'm using a 10k equalizer now on a 7k# TT and really like it better than chains and friction sway bars. I usually use my power jack to lift the truck for bar alignment. What Equalizer you using now - 14K?
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:22 PM   #17
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Thanks for the idea on the timbrens. I'm using a 10k equalizer now on a 7k# TT and really like it better than chains and friction sway bars. I usually use my power jack to lift the truck for bar alignment. What Equalizer you using now - 14K?
I am using the 12K bars. I found I do not need to go up to the 14K bars. But all this depends on how you load your rig.
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