 |
10-02-2011, 03:27 PM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Luray, VA (central Shenandoah Valley of VA)
Posts: 1,430
|
TV brake upgrade
Do any of you out there have experience with upgrading factory brakes with the slotted and/or drilled rotors and high-end pads that the aftermarket offers ? I have a 2003 F-350 V10 gas crew cab 4X4 that had some front rotor warpage issues that were corrected with factory warranty replacements some years ago. No problems since, but the heaviest tow until now was a 6,000lb TT. Recently purchased a 9,000+ Jayco Designer 5'er that will be over 10,000 when loaded, and near the upper limit for the Ford's capacity. So, since heavier loads mean higher temps on the brakes, am wondering if I should now upgrade the rotors and pads. Anybody have thoughts pro or con on this ?
__________________
2003 Ford F-350 V-10 Crew Cab 4WD Long Bed
2004 Jayco Designer Medallion 29 RLTS 5th wheel
Bill, Gayle, Teddy (Jack Russell terrier), and Honey (Beagle)
Retired at last !
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
|
|
|
|
10-02-2011, 04:01 PM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
|
I really don't see this as a problem. I am assuming that the new trailer will come with brakes.
A lot of rotor warpage in our area comes from long down hills and water holes and slush on the road. The ice cold water on hot rotors will do it every time.
__________________
2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
|
|
|
|
|
10-02-2011, 08:57 PM
|
#3
|
|
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinlizzie23
Do any of you out there have experience with upgrading factory brakes with the slotted and/or drilled rotors and high-end pads that the aftermarket offers ?.....snip
|
My understanding (talking with my nephew) is that slotted rotors have more braking surface and dissipate heat better than drilled rotors....., the down side is that slotted rotors will go through pads a little faster than drilled. Drilled rotors will dissipate heat better than stock rotors, better pad life, but the drilling process has weakened the metal a little.
If you do the job yourself, take note that there is a proper directional rotation required when installing both the slotted and drilled rotors.
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
|
|
|
|
|
10-03-2011, 05:40 AM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,643
|
To emphasize something implied earlier: if your trailer brakes are working properly, your tow vehicle brakes should not have to work much harder than when not towing.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
|
|
|
|
|
10-03-2011, 07:54 AM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,726
|
The very first mod I did to my tow vehicle when I got it was drilled and slotted rotors with more aggressive brake pads... WHOA is more important than GO. SUMMIT can provide you with all the parts you need ...I went direct fit replacement so it was just like doing a regular brake job. IF you do it yourself make sure you use brake clean to wash off the new rotors BEFORE you put them on.... they have a "grease" coating to prevent rust while sitting in the warehouse.
__________________
Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days /2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
93/2020,157/2019219/2018 206/2017,215/2016, 211/2015, 196/14, 247/13, 193/12
|
|
|
|
|
10-10-2011, 03:16 AM
|
#6
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Luray, VA (central Shenandoah Valley of VA)
Posts: 1,430
|
Thanks, everyone, for weighing in on the subject. Think I will just try things out as is, and be overly cautious until I know how the truck brakes respond.
__________________
2003 Ford F-350 V-10 Crew Cab 4WD Long Bed
2004 Jayco Designer Medallion 29 RLTS 5th wheel
Bill, Gayle, Teddy (Jack Russell terrier), and Honey (Beagle)
Retired at last !
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
|
|
|
|
|
10-10-2011, 12:18 PM
|
#7
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 15
|
I had a 2002 Ford F250 that was a great truck except the brakes. For years Ford had issues with the rotors. To solve our recurring rotor issues we installed heavy duty rotors from Disk Brakes Australia ("DBA"). The rotors were slotted (not drilled as DBA advises against drilling for heavy duty truck installations) and paired with Hawk 4000 pads. Totally solved the problem. Lots of solutions out there and this is just one of them.
__________________
George & Kim Edgerton
2011 31.5RLTS
2011 Duramax
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Linear Mode
