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Old 05-28-2015, 01:16 PM   #1
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WDH bar rating question - 27BH

I have 2007 Jayflight 27BH (no slides). The prior owner removed the couch and installed countertop made of floor tile top - which are heavy so combined with the added 30lb propane tanks and power jack I'm guessing weight reduction was zero. I am new to all of this and read FAQ's and searched, still had question on size of the WDH bars.
  • I don't have WDH and when I load the TT I can keep the weight reasonably off the nose
  • I have a battery, electric jack and two 30 gal tanks (figured on boondocking) on the tongue.
  • The attitude of the truck and trailer is pretty good with the TT being just slightly down in the front.
  • Typically we tow dry tank, but we are going to have some loaded trips just not many and keep that to minimum. And the tanks are basically close to the TT axles more or less, or even behind them in case of waste tanks.
  • The TT tows great, tracks fine and is stable even in cross winds, but I don't live in mountains. My only complaint is that over larger bumps in road I get porpoising as it settles down, and yes I realize WDH would improve this dramatically.
  • Towing with 1/2 ton Tundra 4.6 w/tow

I'm anticipating going to Yellowstone and a big trip, so was figuring on getting WDH for safety.

Q: Since I don't perceive a huge problem with tongue weight, I was figuring 800lb bars on the WDH would be adequate. Has anyone with this combination or something close? The 1000lb is more popular on Amazon, just wondering if I should just get that? I don't think I'd have that much hitch weight to offset and it would be too much. Appreciate input as I don't want to have to buy different bars.
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:35 PM   #2
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One purpose of WD is to bring the weight back on the front wheels to restore steering control. 1/2" of rise in your front end can take enough weight off to make steering a challenge. You may not notice it right away, but wait until you tow in a 40mph cross wind hitting smack on the side.

Measure your front wheel wells before putting the trailer on. Measure after you put the trailer on. There is a spec for this, which differs by manufacturer, with GM the spec is to restore the front to stock height. Your owners manual should have it.

You get the spring bars based on the weight of the tongue, but I'm thinking the 800# will be fine.
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:17 PM   #3
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I agree, since the TT will have a gross loaded weight in the moderate to heavy range, a WDH would be required with your TV.

Your 2007 27BH had a published UVW of 4,890lbs (actual ship weight could be 350lbs heavier), a GVWR of 7,500lbs, and a 37 gallon fresh water capacity including the HWH. Your TT should have a sticker on it with the actual Ship Weight UVW.

The 27BH is a 29ft TT, and for optimum TV handling a 13% to 15% loaded tongue weight range of the TT's gross weight would be recommended.

Under a worst case loaded TT condition of 7,500lbs (GVWR), your loaded tongue weight range would be 975lbs to 1,125lbs (13% to 15%).

Another way to look at it (hypothetical): (4,890lb UVW) + (350lbs Ship weight delta) + (700lbs cargo) + (308lbs fresh water) = 6,248lbs gross TT weight. Loaded tongue weight range would be 812lbs to 937lbs. Actual "ready-to-camp" weights are directly influenced by one's personal loading habits.

If it were my TT, I would go with a WDH rated at 1,000lbs minimum.

Once you get the WDH, a visit to a CAT scale under loaded TV/TT conditions will confirm proper adjustment of the WDH, along with much more information.

CAT scale how-to: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...v-tt-3871.html

Hope this helps.

Bob
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:04 PM   #4
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Bob and Chuck THANKS for such well thought out answers to my question. Really appreciate it. I guess after looking at the numbers, either 800 or 1000 would be OK but the 1000 must sell a lot as its cheaper so I may just order that one.

I'm still doing stuff getting the trailer ready, just replaced my skylight which had a lot of cracks in it, I got a table and chairs to replace the missing booth, and bought some wood looking vinyl plank flooring to replace the damaged roll floor. But things should go quickly as I'm taking some time off this summer and will have some time to get her fixed up.

Geeze, after reading some of the tire reviews and reading various tire issues, I wonder if I might need two spares instead of one I just got! Anyway, I'm rambling. I'll have to post some pictures before and after, I think it will look pretty cool.
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:39 AM   #5
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snip..... I'll have to post some pictures before and after, I think it will look pretty cool.
We look forward to seeing your pics.

You may want to consider starting another thread with pics of your TT's 'work-in-process' with some DIY comments along the way...., these threads always make for an interesting read for members/lurkers.

Bob
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:03 AM   #6
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I have the same trailer and the dealer sold me 800lb bars when I bought it. If I were to do it over today I would go with the 1000lb bars. All though I would probably go with a hitch that has sway control intergrated.
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:29 AM   #7
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Also dont ignore/overlook your rated towing capacity and cargo carrying capacity specific to your tow vehicle as equipped from the factory. Every pound you add from the trailer coupler back plays into tow capacity of your tow vehicle (plus 10-15% of tongue on hitch) Every pound you add to your tow vehicle after a full fuel tank and 150lb driver (I believe 150 lbs is calculated in payload capacity for driver correct me if I'm wrong). Including other passengers, pets, items in pick up box (ie; generators, water jugs, tools atv's etc. plays both into cargo capacity AND towing capacity.
Essentially every pound you add to your vehicle will play into tow capacity, cargo capacity or both.
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:17 PM   #8
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Get the 1200 lbs. bars and you have room to grow.
It is a matter off finding the right chain link for the proper weight distribution.
What I have always done adjust everything at the cat scale. Just drive over the scale and take note of the axle weights. Also in combination measure the TV heights by the front and rear fenders. Be sure you tow your TT level within 1-1/2 inch
When I am fully loaded I use 4 links and with a medium load 3 links. You usual can feel it in the steering of the combination when it feels comfortable.
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:08 PM   #9
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Thanks guys. I have ordered the 1000 setup as it seemed like perfect setup for me. I don't need "worst case scenario" when I rarely have it loaded for bear, seems like that would be too stiff a setup. I almost got the 800 but it was actually more expensive on amazon. Comes with sway control although I have not had that issue, but haven't hit mountains or such living in TX, just wind. The Goodyear radials seem to help in that regard as well.
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:47 PM   #10
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snip...... Comes with sway control although I have not had that issue, but haven't hit mountains or such living in TX, just wind. The Goodyear radials seem to help in that regard as well.
I winter in Texas (Hill Country) and my integrated sway control system earns it's keep every year...., those crosswinds along the Texas & Arkansas highways can be challenging

Bob
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:17 AM   #11
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UPS man came yesterday, backed in my drive - never done that before. Guy carefully eases box onto a hand cart and unloads it off the back. That box is seriously heavy! I know WDH does a lot of good things, but holy cow its going to add 100lbs right on the hitch by itself. I store my TT so not sure when I'm going to get to installing everything.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:21 AM   #12
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There's good reason it's that heavy though! Have fun!
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