WDH Questions

BillMc40 · 10-13-2013, 08:24 PM

We picked the trailer up yesterday. Watched the tech hook it up. I should of said hey now let me do it. I know that is how I learn hands on. The 2012 Silverado is 36.5 inches in the front 39.25 in the rear. This is with no passengers and a full tank of fuel and a few camping supplies. After the hitch was installed truck was 36.5 in front and 37.75 in rear. Trailer was empty of supplies and our stuff, all tanks were full. I watched the tech lower the hitch close the coupler and raise the trailer a bit. Used the supplied bar to raise the bars and clip them in. 175 miles later at 20th street campground hometown Kansas I had a hard time getting those bars off. I raised the trailer a little while hitched it did raise the truck a little, but I had a hard time lifting and swinging them. So thought maybe there was pressure on them. I am asking for help with a take off procedure for lack of a better word. I have an equalizer 4 point system. Tech told me he thought it was one of the best. Thanks
BillMc

GIFCo147 · 10-13-2013, 09:32 PM

Place wood block under the foot on the trailer jack, and crank the trailer all the way up. You need to take weight off of the bars before you can remove them. There is probably a Youtube video out there with the coupling/uncoupling sequence.

RollTideinWA · 10-13-2013, 09:32 PM

I have the same WDH, and I struggled with those bars for quite some time before I found the right amount of rise to take the tongue weight off the bars so I could just pull them off. So, my initial advice would be to raise the tongue a little more to get even more pressure off. I've been in unhitch scenarios where things weren't level which created a challenge for removing the bars. My remedy for that: a mallet.

Hope that helps.

clutch · 10-13-2013, 10:49 PM

As mentioned, raise your truck and trailer until it is loose enough to do by hand. Using a piece of pipe on the spring bars can and will hurt you.

Ecfeick · 10-15-2013, 02:49 PM

You should always use the bar after lifting the hitch. You don't want to
Get your fingers pinched.

thomasmnile · 10-16-2013, 08:09 AM

When unhitching our WhiteHawk from our TV, I raise the trailer tongue completely off the ball with about a half inch clearance between the coupler and the ball. The left side trunnion bar comes off easily, the right side bar require a tap with a mallet to come off the cam. I had mentioned this before, and Rustic Eagle suggested the hitch may not be properly adjusted. However, I believe the right side spring pack on the truck is "different" or weaker than the left side because the bed always appears slightly "lower" even when the truck is parked on level ground, with no load. I do use the air springs I installed when we had our fifth wheel; it seems to smooth the ride when the trailer is hitched. They are inflated to 30 psi when towing, and were at that pressure when the dealer installed the hitch and adjusted it for the trailer.

satchmo1960 · 10-16-2013, 09:10 AM

I have a Fastsway E2 and just got our first TT last weekend. Seemed easy at the dealership yet when I got home had a heck of a time getting bars off. My wife was scared raising it so high yet I had to. One side came of yet had to go a couple inches higher for the other side to come loose. I was told at dealer ya need that A-frame look or teepee to get bars off just seems a bit much on the hitch. Now the post above me from thomasmnile he states he takes it off completely off the ball...The dealer had mine still locked on the ball as I did when I got home..It sure seems like it is really is putting a bind on the ball but that's the way it comes off..at least that is what I thought.. I would feel you would have to keep it attached or your just raising the trailer which wouldn't loosen the sway bars..Am I wrong ??? HELP !!!!!!!

eldermike · 10-16-2013, 09:30 AM

leave it locked on the ball and lift the truck and camper is the way I have always used a WDH.

eldermike · 10-16-2013, 09:32 AM

That hitch looks very much like an Equalizer, same design. That's a good design IMO.

RedHorse1 · 10-16-2013, 10:35 AM

We also have the Equalizer and have always raised the tongue and TV rear end up with the tongue jack to get the bars on/off. That's the main prompt that got me to get the electric tongue jack! This hitch has an "L" shaped perch (my description) on each side that the bar rests on and I use my foot to see when I've raised the tongue enough to get the bar in place. To remove I nudge the bar as I'm extending the jack to see when it's loose. With me on one side of the hitch and the bride on the other it's even easier. The hitch came with a pry-bar to help engage the bars but I've never used it.

thomasmnile · 10-16-2013, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by satchmo1960

I have a Fastsway E2 and just got our first TT last weekend. Seemed easy at the dealership yet when I got home had a heck of a time getting bars off. My wife was scared raising it so high yet I had to. One side came of yet had to go a couple inches higher for the other side to come loose. I was told at dealer ya need that A-frame look or teepee to get bars off just seems a bit much on the hitch. Now the post above me from thomasmnile he states he takes it off completely off the ball...The dealer had mine still locked on the ball as I did when I got home..It sure seems like it is really is putting a bind on the ball but that's the way it comes off..at least that is what I thought.. I would feel you would have to keep it attached or your just raising the trailer which wouldn't loosen the sway bars..Am I wrong ??? HELP !!!!!!!

Don't know if it matters or makes a difference, but I have the Reese Strait Line hitch. Our dealer installed it after completing the trailer PDI/Orientation. They have a level pad they park the trailer and TV on for the hitch install. I watched a good bit of the process and the tech with the service manager's help adjusted the the cam mounts and the hitch head angle 3 times before they were satisfied with the installation and likewise hitched/unhitched the trailer to check their work. I know when coupled, the combination appears quite level. The service manager did note the left side of the truck bed seemed higher than the right when the truck was parked on the pad, and observed it is possible the "cockeyed" appearance can and does happen and there's no obvious problem with the truck's rear suspension (ours is an '05 Ram 3500). Since the trailer tows well and the hitch is absolutely doing its job, (especially sway control) I'm hesitant to mess with it. The most pronounced problem I have unhitching and removing the right trunnion bar is at the storage facility. The right side of our assigned parking spot is lower which seems to help keep the right side bar "loaded". Perhaps I should try to remove the trunnion bars on a level part of the storage yard drive before parking to see if it makes a difference.

satchmo1960 · 10-16-2013, 12:37 PM

I know the the tech said when on uneven surface it would be much harder..when we got home the left side came off fairly easy yet the right side was a bear. Like I said we had to raise it a inch or two more to release that one.

eldermike · 10-16-2013, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by satchmo1960

I know the the tech said when on uneven surface it would be much harder..when we got home the left side came off fairly easy yet the right side was a bear. Like I said we had to raise it a inch or two more to release that one.

I raise my truck up alot before mine release, it's designed for it just keep going up until it's free.

satchmo1960 · 10-16-2013, 01:10 PM

It is just scary looking...Ball looks like it's going to get ripped off backwards. LOL

bigbird · 10-16-2013, 01:18 PM

If my vehicle is not straight inline to my trailer I notice one side is harder then the other to take off in my driveway. I was afraid to raise my jack to high when I first used it thinking it might break something. Now I don't worry about it but I do only raise enough to take the bars off easily

eldermike · 10-16-2013, 01:54 PM

Just be sure you let it back down before trying to release the ball. The sequence is important for safety.
1) block the jack so it's supported well and not fully extended once you are unhooked.
2) Raise truck/trailer until the weight bars can be removed.
3) Lower the front until the jack lifts slightly off the ground. this places the weight back on the truck.
4) Release the ball lock, remove the safety chains and unplug.
5) Raise the trailer off the ball.

Rustic Eagle · 10-16-2013, 01:58 PM

I have the Reese Strait-Line 1,500lb rated WDH (I have a 1,300lb TT loaded tongue weight). Even with my TV/TT raised adequately via the electric tongue jack, one of the spring bars always seems to be under more load when engaging and/or dis-engaging them.... just the nature of the WDH physics and my particular TV/TT combination.

Since not all TV/TT combinations are created equal (suspension stiffness, ground clearances, WDH ratings, tongue jack travel, etc.), the actual spring bar load conditions can very during the engaging/dis-engaging process. In the case of the conventional snap-up bracket WDH's like mine, I always use the cheater bar supplied by Reese and keep a grip on it at all times until the safety pin is in place....., I don't use my hands even if there doesn't seem to be a load on the spring bar(s).

In the case of the Equal-i-zer brand WDH like the OP has, for safety reasons the spring bars shouldn't be under any load to safely remove them because the supplied hand held lever assist is designed to be used only during the spring bar "engagement" process.

Always keep the TT coupler locked to the TV hitch ball when engaging/dis-engaging the spring bars for safety reasons. IMO a mallet/hammer shouldn't be required to dis-engage a spring bar.

Bob

RedHorse1 · 10-16-2013, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eldermike

Just be sure you let it back down before trying to release the ball. The sequence is important for safety.
1) block the jack so it's supported well and not fully extended once you are unhooked.
2) Raise truck/trailer until the weight bars can be removed.
3) Lower the front until the jack lifts slightly off the ground. this places the weight back on the truck.
4) Release the ball lock, remove the safety chains and unplug.
5) Raise the trailer off the ball.

CHOCK the TT wheels!

milw156 · 10-16-2013, 03:45 PM

I always look at the shank and the receiver. I have a couple mm of play, so as soon as the shank starts moving up, you know that the weight is starting to come off the tow vehicle.

When using the bars always be to the side of the vertical path. If that thing flings for some reason you don't want to get struck. Don't ask why I know that

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