23B Newbie with questions

[Decade]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

that is a Torsion axle. They are much harder to create a lift for them. A good welding shop might be able to it, as will have to create a sub-frame that mounts under the existing frame.

Edit: I just went back and checked my notes;

When I looked at bigger tires for my HTT, Dexter said all I needed was 1.5" between the wheels , They said 3 inches above the wheels to the wheel well

Thanks. Good to know. I keep that in mind when I need to replace the tires.

[Decade]

I found this. I believe this might work when I backup my TT onto my driveway without hitting the sewer pipe. In fact, it's possibly to build one by myself with a few 1x6 woods

[bankr63]

I don't know if anyone has tried this with the TorFlex suspension, but looking at the tech drawings, the trailing arms can be installed at different angles that will adjust the height. However, this would also change the wheel location aft a bit and could affect the location in the wheel well. Might be worth talking to a good trailer shop to see if this could be done. Looks easier than adding a subframe. The manuals are available on the Dexter site.

Also, just to be clear about the skids I mentioned, I have circled below from your picture. These should hit your driveway long before any pipes.



ETA: One other solution folks here do with a tough driveway is purchase an additional simple basic hitch with a long drop. This gets the trailer bumper up much higher for negotiating the start of the rise. BUT watch at the middle of the approach as the tongue end, or worse the jack, can hit the pavement as well before the truck tires start up the rise as well. You have to get the geometry correct, and it is a bit of a pain hitching twice. Sometimes desperation calls for desperate measures...

[bankr63]

Found the guide I was thinking of:

https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...).pdf?sfvrsn=2

P.15 indicates that the trailing arms can be mounted 45, 32, 22.5, or 10 degrees down, neutral, or 10, 22.5 degrees up. since these look pretty flat, you might get a bit of lift by changing this.

[marbles]

Is digging out the high point in the driveway an option?

[johnsoax]

Originally Posted by Decade

Can I have their email address? I want to ask for the drawing for my TT too. Thanks.



I was thinking to put a ladder beside the awnings. Just like the picture below. But probably need to find the right one, or something retractable is the best.

That is an interesting place for it. I think I would put it on the driver side though...

Here is the link that I used to contact them about the drawings. I sent them my VIN number. https://www.jayco.com/site/contact/service/

[johnsoax]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

that is a Torsion axle. They are much harder to create a lift for them. A good welding shop might be able to it, as will have to create a sub-frame that mounts under the existing frame.

Edit: I just went back and checked my notes;

When I looked at bigger tires for my HTT, Dexter said all I needed was 1.5" between the wheels , They said 3 inches above the wheels to the wheel well

That is a much different suspension than the newer models..

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by johnsoax

That is a much different suspension than the newer models..

Yep, I have the torsion suspension, wish I had the new leaf spring design, just not enough to trade it in.

[Decade]

Got the blueprint from Jayco, but it's hard to read... :P

I am planning to put 4pcs of 40"x26" solar panel at the front.

Do I have to mount with the frame or there's actually a flat wood covered on top of the frame?

[Ernie85]

Originally Posted by johnsoax

My old house has a pretty good slope on the drive way and I never hit the sewer pipe. Used to max out the front jack trying to level if I didn't have 6-7" of blocking under it.

I've personally found the X-chocks to not make a huge difference. Mainly my issue is side to side movement, not fore-aft, but I have 4 kids who run around the 23B. I would also love some upgrades on the stabilizers. I have made some bracing that I strap in (just like those linked to upthread) but I need to make them out of pressure treated now that I know they work.

I have leaf springs on my 2016 23B, so I could do an axle flip, but already have a ton of ground clearance. The wheels are 8" apart or so. It would be a large wheel size change to make them hit each other.

I just asked for drawings for my camper on Thursday and got some dated 2012 for a generic 23B from Jayco on Friday. Seeing as they missed putting in 5 or 6 of the backer plates mentioned in the drawings when issues were addressed after one year with a warranty visit, I am a little worried about trusting the drawings.

I too have thought an installed ladder would be nice, just don't know where to stick it on a hybrid.

Never heard of spring bars that needed to come off to back up. Sway brakes, sometimes.

Can you send me those blue prints? I want to add a handicapped assist handle by the door on my 2012.

Thanks

[bankr63]

Originally Posted by Decade

Got the blueprint from Jayco, but it's hard to read... :P

I am planning to put 4pcs of 40"x26" solar panel at the front.

Do I have to mount with the frame or there's actually a flat wood covered on top of the frame?

Really hard if you are adding solar. That's the floor layout plan. Should be another page with the roof plan.

I would try to get any mounting into a cross member. There is plywood across the full surface, but it isn't very thick. Permanent panels are exposed to very high winds underway - you want them as securely fastened as possible.

[Decade]

Originally Posted by bankr63

Really hard if you are adding solar. That's the floor layout plan. Should be another page with the roof plan.

No wonder I feel very strange about it... haha~

I think they didn't send me the roof. I need to ask again. Thanks.

[Decade]

I have the similar sway control and weight distribution system for my TT. Just to clarify, I should take off the sway control but can leave the weight distribution bars in when I am backing up the TT?

[bankr63]

Correct @Decade.

The friction sway control should be popped off if it is capable of "closing" in a hard turn (near jackknife). The friction bar would disappear completely into the sheath and likely rip the bar right off the mount.

You can test to see if it is necessary to remove by backing up in a parking lot with a spotter so you know how tight a turn you can make without this happening. Depending on the geometry of your setup, it is possible that this cannot happen, but the only way to know is watch carefully while trying it. For most it is easier to just remove the sway control bar.

Here's a picture of what can happen if it does close up in a turn:



This was on my first trip out with current TT. Dealer had installed the frame bracket incorrectly (reversed) and it closed up pulling out of my driveway forward. You don't want to hear a noise that loud coming from "back there" ever.

[Neandertalman]

Hello,
I put 14" 205's on my 2003 23b Kiwi. Various sources said I would not have a problem and in the 10,000 miles since I made the change no issues have arose. Chose to increase the 13" wheels to 14" for two reasons:

1 - I felt I could use a bit more clearance on the plumbing. My drive does not give me a clearance problem but the sanitary IS a bit low.

2 - Tires! I could not find a local supplier of 13" RV tires. Quickly occurred to me that the last thing I wanted to happen was finding that I could also not find a tire if I needed one on the road. Had such an issue when my previous pop-up need new tire during a trip and had to have them MAILED to the town we were now forced to stay in. 14" tires (maybe not trailer tires) can be found anywhere for at least an emergency option.

Also, besides adding a small amount of ground clearance and a bit of tire security, the 14" tires carry more load and will rotate at a lower RPM down the road so as to provide a bit of relief on the wheel bearings. All issues that are important to me to limit possible headaches when traveling. We do not 'local' camp much so our outings are measure by the 1,000 mile mark.

Clarence between tire and camper frame are safe for the upgrade. I ordered up four new already mounted wheel/tires off Amazon and had a bolt-on solution. Tire/wheels were shipped 'naked' with shipping sticker stuck onto the tire. No wasted packaging! New wheels replaced the slightly rusting 13" rims. Cost me less that $400 with shipping to better ease my mind on the road.

Bert

[jda661]

I Just did the same thing with wheels and tires from Amazon for my 08 23B. I had a driveway clearance issue to the rear driver side leveling jack and that extra lift got me out of that issue. I looked to lift the Torsion Axle but there is no kit for our model 23b that has frame side mounted axle brackets so I chose the tire size upgrade instead. Found 5 Tires , now just have to be creative with a spare mount because the new size doesnt fit in the old spare location...LOL Handled like a champ on our maiden trip though. Glad, the old tires were original and date coded to 2007. Now we can find 205 70R14 wherever theres a WalMart.

[Decade]

Originally Posted by Neandertalman

Hello,
I put 14" 205's on my 2003 23b Kiwi. Various sources said I would not have a problem and in the 10,000 miles since I made the change no issues have arose. Chose to increase the 13" wheels to 14" for two reasons:

1 - I felt I could use a bit more clearance on the plumbing. My drive does not give me a clearance problem but the sanitary IS a bit low.

2 - Tires! I could not find a local supplier of 13" RV tires. Quickly occurred to me that the last thing I wanted to happen was finding that I could also not find a tire if I needed one on the road. Had such an issue when my previous pop-up need new tire during a trip and had to have them MAILED to the town we were now forced to stay in. 14" tires (maybe not trailer tires) can be found anywhere for at least an emergency option.

Also, besides adding a small amount of ground clearance and a bit of tire security, the 14" tires carry more load and will rotate at a lower RPM down the road so as to provide a bit of relief on the wheel bearings. All issues that are important to me to limit possible headaches when traveling. We do not 'local' camp much so our outings are measure by the 1,000 mile mark.

Clarence between tire and camper frame are safe for the upgrade. I ordered up four new already mounted wheel/tires off Amazon and had a bolt-on solution. Tire/wheels were shipped 'naked' with shipping sticker stuck onto the tire. No wasted packaging! New wheels replaced the slightly rusting 13" rims. Cost me less that $400 with shipping to better ease my mind on the road.

Bert

Same here. I found it's hard to find 13" tires at local tire shop or even Costco. What kind of 14" rim you had?

[jda661]

Just replaced the older white steel wheels with new white steel wheels, nothing fancy.

[Neandertalman]

Hello Decade,
I bought 'Kenda Loadstar Karrier 205/75R14 w/Wheel (32153)' as per Amazon listing title. I paid $97 per tire delivered. Amazon has the listing today at $89.45 each delivered. Wheel matched original style (old caps will attach to the new 14" wheel). Much better load capacity than the original ST185 13's from Jayco. Yes, I was replacing the original 13 year old Marathons as soon as I bought the well cared for 2003 Kiwi 23B. The 13" rubber looked good but I could not drive 13 year old tires!
10,000 miles and absolutely no problems. Steady air pressure for all four for over the last year. For the price, I do recommend your consideration.
Bert

[Kellys]

Bigger tires most likely means adjusting settings on you're hitch also we use equalizer hitch on our 2006 23b works great don't remove anything when backing also if you get another hitch look around to buy one used if you can as much as people buy and sell rvs there is bound to be some out there