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08-18-2015, 01:05 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orange County
Posts: 32
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Brake Feel
On the new X18D, I don't feel like the brakes are "grabbing" hard enough when I engage the brake controller manual lever. I'm comparing to my bosses 5er that could stop the whole rig by themselves. I can barely feel any drag. I asked the dealer about it, and they said that because the brakes are new, they will need to seat and braking will become more noticeable. They also mentioned that these brakes will never feel anything like a 5er's, and that the brakes are just strong enough for the size of the trailer. I don't know, but I feel like at max power on the P3, I should be able to lock the tires up if I wanted, and it comes no where near lock up. How much brake feel should I notice? Shouldn't the tires lock up if you really throw the juice at them?
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08-18-2015, 01:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: State of Confusion
Posts: 5,012
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Hi Dan,
Not disagreeing with your dealer but have you adjusted the power to the trailer brakes? See the attached and starting on page 5, you will see what I mean and this should be done before setting the "Boost".
http://www.tekonsha.com/support/installation/N90195.pdf
If you are at full power, there is a problem IMHO.
Murff
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Murff
2015 White Hawk 20MRB (It's last year)
2017 F150 2.7 Eco Boost 3.73 Gears
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08-18-2015, 01:40 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orange County
Posts: 32
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That is exactly how I did it. At 14 on the controller, I can barely feel any drag. They recommend starting at 6, so I think there should be more brake feel considering I'm double that.
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08-18-2015, 02:14 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,851
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You are getting the bums rush.
Ask the dealer how many miles the rig was pulled from the factory to you. If over 100 miles, the brakes are burnished. Someone needs to pull the hubs and see if they have grease in the brake assembly.
That would be them.
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08-18-2015, 02:16 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 3,431
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Yes, at 20 mph you should be able to pull the brake lever and slow the entire rig down, to a stop if you like. No, the brakes are not like those on a 5ver. You will not be able to use the lever to stop on a dime.
However, I've purchased 2 Jayco hybrids new and the brakes were not right from the factory on either of them. On both trailers the adjustment pin on one wheel fell off on the first trip and rolled around inside the drum. On our Kiwi 17a the pin was ground to a nub by the time I caught it. The X20E was only missing the spring. Our X20E also had one brake that was dragging. It took two rounds of adjustment to get the brakes on all 4 wheels properly adjusted.
That's what I think is wrong with yours, they need adjustment. Trailers in this size don't have self adjusting brakes like a car does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
You are getting the bums rush.
Ask the dealer how many miles the rig was pulled from the factory to you.
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I think most trailers in this size range are hauled on the back of a flatbed trailer with other smaller travel trailers.
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Chuck
2013 Jayco Jayfeather X20 E (sold)
2016 Chevy Silverado LTZ 2 Z71 Crew Cab (sold, and dearly missed)
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08-18-2015, 03:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elephant Butte, NM
Posts: 1,219
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Not sure why a TT brake should be different from a 5er. , electric brakes are electric brakes. Every time I've had a issue braking they needed adjusting and my 5er has auto adjusters. Made a 120 degree or better turn last month and accidentally pulled the breakaway cable - all stop mid turn.
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08-18-2015, 03:41 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: PNW
Posts: 5,195
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I would also check the wires going to the brakes. I've heard of instances where a brake wire was broken, or had a bad in-line connection. That would be an easier first check than pulling the hubs and checking for grease on the drums and shoes.
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Bill
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab
2011 Jay Flight 26BH
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08-18-2015, 04:13 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elephant Butte, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokerBill
I would also check the wires going to the brakes. I've heard of instances where a brake wire was broken, or had a bad in-line connection. That would be an easier first check than pulling the hubs and checking for grease on the drums and shoes.
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+1
I assumed the controller worked
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2015 F350 SRW 6.7 LB 4X4 Crew
2017 Durango G353KRT
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2002 Western Star 4900EX 500 Detroit 13sp.
2014 Eagle 30.5BHLT (sold)
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08-18-2015, 05:10 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocBrown
t
That's what I think is wrong with yours, they need adjustment.
I think most trailers in this size range are hauled on the back of a flatbed trailer with other smaller travel trailers.
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You are correct, but it is still an adjustment on a new rig.
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Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
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B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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08-18-2015, 05:58 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orange County
Posts: 32
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The tech came out and I made him get in the truck to activate the brake controller. He said, "yeah, they're lite, but I can feel a little drag. It will get better as they break in." I wanted to call BS, but because this is my first travel trailer I couldn't say for sure he was wrong. I know these are not self adjusting, which will piss me off if I have to take it in for a brake adjustment and they try charging me for it by saying it's "normal maintenance". Not on a brand new trailer it isn't! I think I'll buy an adjustment tool and do it myself if that's the case. I work on most all of my own vehicles and such because I always do a much better job than dealers. Most of the time when I leave a dealership, I leave pissed off because of the crap they tend to spew.
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08-18-2015, 08:00 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston Suburbs
Posts: 302
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When I went to pick up my new trailer the breaks weren't broke it yet. You could feel drag on the trailer on 14 but not much to speak of.
I adjusted them on the 300 mile trip home but they never really grabbed good.
I got home and tightened the wheel bearings and adjusted the breaks again and they were much better, but still didn't grab like I thought they should.
I dealt with the breaks the way they were. They weren't consistent, they would feel good sometimes and sometimes they were light.
Over the winter I broke off the trailer plug outlet on the truck in some snow. In the spring I changed the outlet on the truck and the breaks work perfect now. On 14 I can lock all 4 of the trailer breaks no problem.
PS your wheel bearings need to be tightened after a few hundred miles. Loose wheel bearings can throw off adjusting the breaks correctly.
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08-18-2015, 08:05 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: State of Confusion
Posts: 5,012
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Dan,
If you do adjust the brakes, look closely at the wires going to the brakes.
Around 1995, we were en-route to Lake Chelan heading down a long grade with my "86 Terry Taurus in tow, when I noticed the brakes on our '86 Bronco were fading badly. I told this to SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) that our brakes were about gone and gave the the brake pedal one more push and was able to get her stopped.. County road with no shoulder and we waited literally over two hours for the wheels to cool to the touch. We weren't sure of the cause at that point.
Got to Chelan with the front rotors metal on metal and had the brakes replaced. We got the trailer back to our seasonal spot. A few days later, doing some routine fettling to the trailer, the son spotted the brake wires. They were poorly routed and rubbing against the propane pipe to the point of the insulation being gone and grounding against the pipe. If not for my then 13 year old son, I probably never would have spotted it.
Murff
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Murff
2015 White Hawk 20MRB (It's last year)
2017 F150 2.7 Eco Boost 3.73 Gears
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