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Old 07-16-2017, 09:27 PM   #21
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I'm still wondering, can you use lego blocks and wheel chocks on the same tire? Sorry if this is a newbie question, I'm very new to this. I'm guessing those Andersen levellers do both chocking and raising which may be best.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:38 PM   #22
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I use a 2x6 that spans both tires so yes I used chocks between the tires as well.

I think you can get lego blocks with compatible chocks that attach to the lego blocks so in that case you could as well.
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:38 PM   #23
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I used a series of long 2x6s for a while but recently switched to lynx levelers.

Our leveling method is as follows:

1) We get a scope of the terrain. Is there a balanced sport for both wheels that looks level?
2) Pull close to that spot and apply side to side level at bumper. (We use a 8" magnetic torpedo)
3) If I need to raise a side, I take an educated guess on experience and pull onto the blocks.
4) Check level again
5) Chock wheels. I use a blend of Harbor Freight and Camcos that seems to adjust well with different terrain. The 15" wheels don't seem to match that well with the camcos. I do put some body english on the wheels and push em to an fro to make sure the chocks are as set as they can be on the wheels.
6) Raise the tongue Jack after releasing the lock on the tongue. But before I go all the way, I check those chocks again.
7) Raise it up from the ball all the way, then release all the safety chains.
8) Pull away from the trailer, then level front to back.
9) Set those stabilizers and enjoy a bit of sway anyways.

Tips for our stuff:
-I try not to set the tongue jack at full extension. Seems to give us more front to back sway
-Same for full extension on stabilizers. Makes it wobbly
- Recheck those wheel chocks a few times during our stay
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:20 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Javin View Post
I'm still wondering, can you use lego blocks and wheel chocks on the same tire? Sorry if this is a newbie question, I'm very new to this. I'm guessing those Andersen levellers do both chocking and raising which may be best.
You may find yourself at a site that needs more lift on one side than the Anderson's will give. That's when you'll want some wood blocking or Lynx Levelers (or similar). They come in handy for under the tongue jack when it's on the low side of the slope. Last weekend we used all 20 of two sets for under the tires, and the front stab jacks. All our wood boards went under the tongue jack, so we could unhitch. Won't get that site again.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:24 AM   #25
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Each to their on. Personally I think you are doing it the hard way, but if it works for you and you are happy, that is good. Much easier for me to back up onto how ever much height I need and then chock all the wheels and unhook. Level front to back last. Then put stabilizers down and secure. Good to go at that point.
Trying to back on to the Lynx "lego" blocks was the hard way. The 5th time the things shot out from the tires as you are trying to back onto them was enough. It is quicker for me to back up, and then jack up the low side.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:29 AM   #26
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Here is one idea. There are many others.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:12 AM   #27
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We camp on a sloped beach at least 10 days a year, and every time we do there is a new opportunity to level. We carry a shovel with us along with wood blocks for leveling. The Uphill side, we dig where the tire will lower into the hole, then level the rig on the downhill side with blocks. This helps out with the overall height our rig ends up on the downhill side, avoiding a giant step to get into our Motorhome. Same is true with a trailer.
This was our approach when we used to boondock in the desert with our toy hauler. We leveled on some truly steep inclines, and it works well as long as you are extra careful. The wheels must be either chocked or dropped into a hole you dig with that shovel you always carry around. If it's steep enough, drop wheels on one side into holes, and roll the other side wheels onto blocks using a small ramp. Either stacked wood, or buy the stacking blocks at the RV store. But many times we had to lower one side of the trailer and raise the other. Takes a bit of practice, but it works very well. Only one time did I have to place a stack of wood under the tongue jack. I only did it after I was certain the trailer would never move out of place, even in high winds.
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Old Yesterday, 12:46 PM   #28
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I have a 16XRB too, and love my BAL leveler. But it can only raise 4 inches. If I needed more than that, I would probably try digging in on the other side.


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Old Yesterday, 01:26 PM   #29
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This was our approach when we used to boondock in the desert with our toy hauler. We leveled on some truly steep inclines, and it works well as long as you are extra careful. The wheels must be either chocked or dropped into a hole you dig with that shovel you always carry around. If it's steep enough, drop wheels on one side into holes, and roll the other side wheels onto blocks using a small ramp. Either stacked wood, or buy the stacking blocks at the RV store. But many times we had to lower one side of the trailer and raise the other. Takes a bit of practice, but it works very well. Only one time did I have to place a stack of wood under the tongue jack. I only did it after I was certain the trailer would never move out of place, even in high winds.
and.. sometimes we do it like this....
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Old Yesterday, 02:48 PM   #30
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and.. sometimes we do it like this....
WTF - I can't even figure that out? Is this Chris Angel's MH?
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