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Old 10-18-2016, 10:40 AM   #1
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Chocking after leveling

This is something that's been perplexing me. How do you handle chocking if you have to put a block under one of your camper's tires in order to level it? I needed to level a little bit last time I was out, and I had a small scrap of wood that I used for the task. I put the chock behind the piece of wood, but the chock wasn't pushed into the back of the tire like I would have preferred. The manufactured leveling blocks I've seen for sale have the same problem. I recently found a longer piece of wood that would allow me to actually put one chock ON the wood with the tire. Is that the way to solve the problem? How do you handle it? Am I just worrying too much?
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:54 AM   #2
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This is something that's been perplexing me. How do you handle chocking if you have to put a block under one of your camper's tires in order to level it? I needed to level a little bit last time I was out, and I had a small scrap of wood that I used for the task. I put the chock behind the piece of wood, but the chock wasn't pushed into the back of the tire like I would have preferred. The manufactured leveling blocks I've seen for sale have the same problem. I recently found a longer piece of wood that would allow me to actually put one chock ON the wood with the tire. Is that the way to solve the problem? How do you handle it? Am I just worrying too much?
My storage spot at the house is sloped in two directions. So I am dealing with the same issue.

I chock the high side tires thoroughly. Then wedge the chocks as well as possible on the lifted side. The tongue jack does the rest. Then the stabilizers for a touch more friction with the ground.

Been working well for me 2 years on this trailer and 6 for the previous one.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:55 AM   #3
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Back when I used the lego type levelers, I used to just make sure I had enough surface in front or behind to put my wheel chocks. I have long since made a couple of 2x6 leveling boards (4 total = 2 of them a double layer and 2 of them a single layer) out of pressure treated board. Like you indicate, they are long enough for me to put a chock on them an either side of the wheel.
When it comes to storage space, I call it 6 in one and half dozen in the other. These board take up more linear space in the storage bay, but I can lay them out and they don't take near the height space that my old lynx levelers did.


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Old 10-18-2016, 11:13 AM   #4
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Sounds like my solution will work then. I don't think it will be long enough to get both chocks on that lifted tire, but if there's a slope of any kind front-to-back, then I'll be able to at least secure it.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:19 AM   #5
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As a tip: I bevel cut the ends of my leveling boards to make it easier to pull/back the trailer on to them. Also, I drilled small holes along the outside edge of the boards (at two inch intervals) which allow me to run the little 1/8" tent stakes through. This way if I am can stake the boards down to the ground (and hook them together if I am stacking them) to keep them from sliding when I pull/back onto them.


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Old 10-18-2016, 11:20 AM   #6
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This is something that's been perplexing me. How do you handle chocking if you have to put a block under one of your camper's tires in order to level it? I needed to level a little bit last time I was out, and I had a small scrap of wood that I used for the task. I put the chock behind the piece of wood, but the chock wasn't pushed into the back of the tire like I would have preferred. The manufactured leveling blocks I've seen for sale have the same problem. I recently found a longer piece of wood that would allow me to actually put one chock ON the wood with the tire. Is that the way to solve the problem? How do you handle it? Am I just worrying too much?
On my dual axle I always used the x-chock that goes between the wheels. On a single axle trailer you would just do your best. possibly using longer boards under the wheel or maybe building a special top board for your stack with some wedges screwed onto it.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:29 AM   #7
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Or just buy yourself an Andersen Leveller. These effectively chock the wheel when deployed and work really well for levelling in most situations. I did have a problem once at a very sandy site with the Andersen sinking into the ground; but then my Lego blocks did the same thing.


Just search for Andersen here on JOF and you will find all kinds of testimonials to how great they are. I've had mine for a year, and wonder why I waited so long!
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #8
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Or just buy yourself an Andersen Leveller. These effectively chock the wheel when deployed and work really well for levelling in most situations. I did have a problem once at a very sandy site with the Andersen sinking into the ground; but then my Lego blocks did the same thing.


Just search for Andersen here on JOF and you will find all kinds of testimonials to how great they are. I've had mine for a year, and wonder why I waited so long!
Just did a little Google search, and it looks pretty cool!
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:55 AM   #9
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Works best if the bottom of the chock is even with the bottom of the raised tire. I use three options for my 17Z:
1. Center the tire on a 2x8 that is long enough to accommodate a chock behind and in front of the tire (this is what I do when storing at my house).
2. Use Lynx leveling blocks; put a lynx block behind and in front of the tire to provide a place for the chocks to sit.
3. Use a BAL leveler. It serves both purposes, raises the tire and chocks it in place.
https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Lig.../dp/B000BH5MAA
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:14 PM   #10
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I recently found a longer piece of wood that would allow me to actually put one chock ON the wood with the tire. Is that the way to solve the problem? How do you handle it? Am I just worrying too much?
This is it, yes. And yes you are worrying too much.
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:49 PM   #11
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This is it, yes. And yes you are worrying too much.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:03 PM   #12
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This is something that's been perplexing me. How do you handle chocking if you have to put a block under one of your camper's tires in order to level it? I needed to level a little bit last time I was out, and I had a small scrap of wood that I used for the task. I put the chock behind the piece of wood, but the chock wasn't pushed into the back of the tire like I would have preferred. The manufactured leveling blocks I've seen for sale have the same problem. I recently found a longer piece of wood that would allow me to actually put one chock ON the wood with the tire. Is that the way to solve the problem? How do you handle it? Am I just worrying too much?
DW & I love camping. Her job is to sit back, relax, read, do artistic stuff, etc. It is my job to do the worrying. But seriously, I'm just never sure where the line is for worrying just enough to be safe.

Bottom line to a long trial-&-error, tire chock story: I have started using bungee cords so that the chocks are being pulled into the tires, front and rear, on both sides of the TT. Why? Because the common, hard plastic, yellow chocks I use have occasionally slid a bit when resting on plastic, wood, asphalt, concrete, and hard packed dirt. I haven't used this method a lot of times, but so far the TT seems anchored in place when I did.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:52 AM   #13
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We use Lynx Levelers (carry 2 sets), and Stop N Chocks. They are made for the system, and work great.
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:20 PM   #14
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Because the common, hard plastic, yellow chocks I use have occasionally slid a bit when resting on plastic, wood, asphalt, concrete, and hard packed dirt. I haven't used this method a lot of times, but so far the TT seems anchored in place when I did.
Seems like a good argument for a good old fashioned free piece of wood cut to be a chock. That's all I've used for over 20 years and have never had one slip in those situations yet.

Where I've run into trouble was when I forgot to chock the wheels! No bungee cord is going to fix my feeble brain!
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:28 PM   #15
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We use Lynx Levelers (carry 2 sets), and Stop N Chocks. They are made for the system, and work great.
We use Lynx Levelers (carry 1 set), and 4 common red bricks.

No movements on sloped or level sites.
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Old 10-19-2016, 04:16 PM   #16
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Just did a little Google search, and it looks pretty cool!
We use the Andersen leveling system and love it. Makes it so easy to level and chock. I still use the yellow chalks on the opposing wheels as well. The Andersen's are a bit pricey but worth it for us.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:01 AM   #17
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I've been using the BAL leveler since my pop-up days and it has always done the trick. Leveling and chocking all in one easy device.
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