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Old 09-01-2016, 10:35 AM   #1
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Greasing bearings

How do you grease the bearings on a X23B? What type of grease? Thank you!
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:59 AM   #2
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There are plenty of threads here on the subject. Just use the search function.


Basically you can:
- Pay the dealer to do it
- Pump grease into the EZ-Lube fitting until the brakes fail
- Ignore them until a wheel passes you on the highway
- Take each spindle apart, clean everything replace the inner seals pack everything with fresh wheel bearing grease and tighten the nut for perfect preload.


Your choice!
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:09 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
There are plenty of threads here on the subject. Just use the search function.


Basically you can:
- Pay the dealer to do it
- Pump grease into the EZ-Lube fitting until the brakes fail
- Ignore them until a wheel passes you on the highway
- Take each spindle apart, clean everything replace the inner seals pack everything with fresh wheel bearing grease and tighten the nut for perfect preload.


Your choice!
Or drop the outer bearing in the dirt as you pull the hub off. Clean it off with a dirty shop towel and crank the nut back down until the wheel barely turns and call it good.

But seriously, there are quite a few "How Too" threads on the site. It is not complicated but if you are not mechanically inclined it is something best left to someone who is. There is a lot that can go wrong if not done correctly...
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:23 AM   #4
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Get yourself a cheap grease gun from Harbor Freight, lowes, Home Depot...where ever and a tube of bearing grease (Valvoline, Timken, Pennzoil, etc.) and slowly pump the grease into the fitting until you can just start to see it creep through the seal. Turn the wheel a couple times to distribute and set the seal.
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:30 AM   #5
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Just don't blow out the seal with grease. Some people try to jam pack the hub with grease and blow out the seal. Todays premium bearing greases, some even synthetic, are a lot better than they used to be.
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:34 AM   #6
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X2 - "- Take each spindle apart, clean everything replace the inner seals pack everything with fresh wheel bearing grease and tighten the nut for perfect preload."

I prefer packing my bearings myself. While you are in there, you can also inspect and adjust your brakes.

I will not be using the EZ-Lube fitting at all. Too many horror stories of people pumping grease into their brakes, you know you aren't getting all of the old, bad grease and contaminates out.. It works for some I guess... then again for some, they don't repack their bearings at all and are just fine for the 5 or so years they own their trailer... then someone else has to deal with their neglect.

There are a ton of videos on youtube that describe the process well. You will probably have to pick up a few parts, cotter pins, etc.. plan on a half day the first time you do it.
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Old 09-01-2016, 02:59 PM   #7
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When I was doing mine this spring, I did a youtube search and found how to get the get it all apart. our 23B did not have a cotter pin, but some other gizmo that does the same thing.

Once apart, I use WD40 and a lot of paper towels to cut the old grease, and remove it from the bearings. You will need new rear seals. I bent each one as I removed them. A NAPA rep found a replacement, looking at my used part. I have a spare at home, so I should be able to find the part number later.

Make sure to fully back the bearings. I like to rub the grease in using my hands it works nice. Add a little grease to the races, and put it all back together the way you found it. The races do not need to be packed tight with grease.

The first one takes the longest. Just remember to lift the frame not the axle.

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Old 09-02-2016, 07:08 AM   #8
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Just curious on if you know the part number from NAPA. I'm going to do mine this weekend, but wanted to get the new rear seals before taking it all apart in case I run into issues.

Also, does anyone know offhand brake size on the 2014 X23B? I have the dexter manual in front of me and it has the seal replacements, but I can't remember the brake size.

Thanks
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Old 09-02-2016, 07:22 AM   #9
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"our 23B did not have a cotter pin, but some other gizmo that does the same thing. "
- Jaygiven


Yeah, that gizmo is a pain-in-the-posterior. Try putting it back on when the nut is not exactly at a 60* increment. It's greasy, your hands are greasy. You've wiped the driveway crud off it 3 times.... Give me a castellated nut and a fresh cotter pin any day!
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:20 AM   #10
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With the EZ-Lube Dexter axels I start spinning the wheel right away as I slowly pump the grease in. I have a Triton trailer 13yrs old that I have not had to replace bearings or seals on using this method.
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:41 AM   #11
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Watch this video it is made by Dexter on how to do a bearing repack, very informative and easy to follow. I replaced my bearings with Timken made in the USA quality, if you have the dexter bearing number google cross reference for Timken bearing, I found the bearing and race in a set on Amazon for $8.00. I also bought the Lisle 12600 Bearing Race and Seal Set Driver, this made it real easy to seat the race and seal without nicking any surfaces, and since I hate greasing bearings by hand since its such a mess even with gloves this did the trick, Lisle 34550 Handy Packer Bearing Packer. Well worth the investment and will last for years.



https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI
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Old 10-20-2016, 02:16 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=rabalin;460173]With the EZ-Lube Dexter axels I start spinning the wheel right away as I slowly pump the grease in.

X2 and I'm on year 6, 2nd owner and I have 27,000 miles in the last 3 years of ownership.
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Old 10-20-2016, 02:24 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=Tunce the traveler;460205]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabalin View Post
With the EZ-Lube Dexter axels I start spinning the wheel right away as I slowly pump the grease in.

X2 and I'm on year 6, 2nd owner and I have 27,000 miles in the last 3 years of ownership.
- What's your preload on each spindle?
- Any wear showing on the outer races?
- How hard at the inner grease seals?
- What do the cages look like? Any dings, malformations?
- Any wear on the spindles? Especially from grit at the inner seals.

Until you routinely tear 'em down, clean and inspect them, you won't know their condition until you are stuck by the side of the road.
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Old 10-20-2016, 02:39 PM   #14
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[QUOTE=Tunce the traveler;460205]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabalin View Post
With the EZ-Lube Dexter axels I start spinning the wheel right away as I slowly pump the grease in.

X2 and I'm on year 6, 2nd owner and I have 27,000 miles in the last 3 years of ownership.
To each their own but I sure would not pump grease into bearings with 27,000 plus miles on them and feel safe. As cheap as bearings and races are I will replace them every other year for peace of mind. I have a small boat trailer with no brakes and bearing buddies similar to EZ-Lube system, I only use it a few times each summer. After each use being dunked in the water they say to spin the tire and give a few squirts but don't bottom out the spring. After a few summers I can see one of the rear seals is starting to leak, but no brakes so no harm. This is why I will never use the EZ-Lube on my Jayco, I can swap out bearings in about 40 minutes.
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Old 10-20-2016, 03:46 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=Sundancer330;460212]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler View Post

To each their own but I sure would not pump grease into bearings with 27,000 plus miles on them and feel safe. As cheap as bearings and races are I will replace them every other year for peace of mind. I have a small boat trailer with no brakes and bearing buddies similar to EZ-Lube system, I only use it a few times each summer. After each use being dunked in the water they say to spin the tire and give a few squirts but don't bottom out the spring. After a few summers I can see one of the rear seals is starting to leak, but no brakes so no harm. This is why I will never use the EZ-Lube on my Jayco, I can swap out bearings in about 40 minutes.
I break them down every other year and started this system with my father on his trailers and boat trailer about 45 years ago and we have never had a failure or close to it. I check the heat at every stop 3-400 miles weather it be bathroom or fuel and temp has always been constant.
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Old 10-20-2016, 04:06 PM   #16
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I grease my bearings one time- every 2 or 3 years when I open up the hubs and service the bearings. It's been a little over a year since I service them, and just finished a 1385 mile, 3 day trip. When I stopped and checked the hubs for temp with my fingers, they were actually cool, but the outdoor temp was about 55 degrees. I only used 1/2 a tube, total, of Mobil 1 grease when I serviced the 4 hubs. In my opinion, these bearings don't need a lot of grease, nor do they need regular additions of new grease. Just service every 2 or 3 years. How often do you all service the bearings on your automobiles?
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:13 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=SmokerBill; How often do you all service the bearings on your automobiles?[/QUOTE]

Apples and Oranges my friend.

The bearings in your vehicle are not serviceable and have an average life span of +100K miles before you toss them in the dumpster. The bearings on a typical TT or 5er, will self destruct in 1/4th the time if you imply the same 'maintenance' schedule for them.

Obviously you know this or you wouldn't service your camper bearings every couple years. It's just the comparison to a modern car, sealed bearing, that caught my attention. People shouldn't compare two completely different systems like that and expect comparable results.

The tires on my car are also rated to 125MPH If I compared them to the tires on my TT, we'd have a similar dillema, it really can't be done logically.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
"our 23B did not have a cotter pin, but some other gizmo that does the same thing. "
- Jaygiven


Yeah, that gizmo is a pain-in-the-posterior. Try putting it back on when the nut is not exactly at a 60* increment. It's greasy, your hands are greasy. You've wiped the driveway crud off it 3 times.... Give me a castellated nut and a fresh cotter pin any day!
+2 on the castle nut!

That other thing they use is awful. It would only fit when the nut was too loose, or to tight.
I decided to install it on the tight position last spring... I'm curious to see what shape that bearing is in when I take them apart before next season.
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:32 PM   #19
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Apples and Oranges my friend.

The bearings in your vehicle are not serviceable and have an average life span of +100K miles before you toss them in the dumpster. The bearings on a typical TT or 5er, will self destruct in 1/4th the time if you imply the same 'maintenance' schedule for them.

Obviously you know this or you wouldn't service your camper bearings every couple years. It's just the comparison to a modern car, sealed bearing, that caught my attention. People shouldn't compare two completely different systems like that and expect comparable results.

The tires on my car are also rated to 125MPH If I compared them to the tires on my TT, we'd have a similar dillema, it really can't be done logically.
Assuming that smoker bill is old like me he was probably refering to good old cars with rear propulsion and not front traction. Use to have the very same set up for the front in regards of bearing that you have on your trailer. No one was servicing them every years, they were serviced for the most part only on brake job. These brg were spinning faster and had to suffer also a lots of side load in turn etc etc ...... this yearly maintenance on traler is not necessary IMHO as long as you are not off roading or camping in a lake ...but hey to each is own and if you sleep better at night well do them twice a year :-)
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:31 AM   #20
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Well everyone will have an opinion. Regardless, I think it is imperative to touch the hubs at each gas stop. Most mechanical systems will give warning signs if there is a problem. Do some service of your choice and check the temp often.

Happy trails,

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