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Old 08-04-2015, 08:14 AM   #1
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Help a newbie understand towing...

Hi,

We are in the midst of buying a 2007 23b and Camping World is offering to sell us what we need for towing. I'd like to research myself to see if I can get a better deal. Right now because of our tow vehicle (08 Range Rover), we need to bring it to the Land Rover dealership so they can install the OEM trailer wiring harness and do wiring for the trailer brakes. $1100.......! From my research it does seem legitimate to have to go through the dealership. They need to program "trailer mode" in the vehicle computer and there's no brake wiring set up yet at all. So they need to run wiring from the dash all the way back.

So after that, all we'll have is the wiring and the square receiver tube. Is the hitch a separate purchase from the ball mount? Or does that all come together as one thing? (i.e. There's the ball that connects to the vehicle and then there's all the stuff that is attached to the 23b... Do you buy those as 2 separate products or does it all come together?) And what about the weight distribution and the sway control?

Finally, the square receiver tube is under the vehicle pretty far back. I've read it needs to be approx 11 inches long to clear the bumper. Is that common?

Any suggestions on where to look for this stuff??

Thanks!!!!
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:00 AM   #2
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OK, well there is a lot to learn here.
There is a great seller of hitch parts called etrailer.com.
Here is a link to answer some of your questions and you can look up your vehicle to get the parts prices. Trailer Brake Controller Recommendation for a 2008 Land Rover Range Rover HSE | etrailer.com .
As far as programming for Towing mode, I cannot find one reference on-line that says anything about programming a "trailer mode". My suspicion is that this is BS.

Here is another good link on RR outfitting, it may or may not apply to your vehicle.
Towing with a Range Rover

Your vehicle is a 2008, this is cream in the coffee for your car dealer. If you are not up to doing the installation yourself I would check around and see if you can get a better deal, that sounds very high to me.

As for the ball mount and the ball you will buy these as needed.
You will want to know the height of the TT when sitting level so you can match the vehicle to the TT. It may need to step up or step down. As far as the distance out you can also buy extended ball mount lengths, it will depend on where the receiver is in relation to the bumper. The Ball will be the last piece and you will select the right one based upon the TT's weight, class of hitch you install, the shaft size of the mounting shaft in that hitch and the size ball for the trailers receiver.

I do not know if you will need to go to a weight distribution type hitch as I do not know the weight of the TT and the towing specs on your vehicle.

I hope I have not confused you more, but there is a good amount of homework to be done to tow safely and correctly.
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:08 AM   #3
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[QUOTE=Chrislorl;328302]You will want to know the height of the TT when sitting level so you can match the vehicle to the TT. It may need to step up or step down. QUOTE]

Shouldn't that be the height of the Coupler on the TT to the height of the ball on the TV.

Saying just the height of the TT could be confusing as most TT are over 7 feet high
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:25 AM   #4
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The 23b is around 5k lbs (without gear). The TV is rated to tow about 7700lbs. I was looking at the Eaz-lift hitch that includes weight distribution and sway control. The problem is the shank length is too short. The ball would end up being under the bumper.

I found a ball mount from Curt Mfg. that is nearly 12 inches long... But that's all it is... A single ball mount. If I want sway control doesn't it need a 2nd ball?
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:33 AM   #5
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[QUOTE=bedrck46;328305]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrislorl View Post
You will want to know the height of the TT when sitting level so you can match the vehicle to the TT. It may need to step up or step down. QUOTE]

Shouldn't that be the height of the Coupler on the TT to the height of the ball on the TV.

Saying just the height of the TT could be confusing as most TT are over 7 feet high
You are correct, a seven foot ball mount would look funny
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:00 AM   #6
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I have a few numbers as a reference point:
Our '12 X23B had a GVWR of 4950#
From the scales the GVW was 4420# with 600# of that on the tongue.

The Max Tow weight of our TV was 7100#. Our Rear GAWR was 4128# and the Rear GAW (from the scale) was 3800#.

The surprise for me was even tho I was WELL below the Max Tow number I was close on the rear axle max weight.
I don't know what your RR axle limits are, but...
My suggestion is to visit the scales and get your current weights. From there you can make an educated decision of your TV is up to the job. Keep in mind that everything that goes into the TV and TT will add weight to the rear TV axle (gear, food, water, people, pets, bicycles...).
The CAT Scale is your friend.
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:03 AM   #7
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1.) are you just getting the wiring installed? Not a hitch receiver or anything? If it's just the wiring, you are getting screwed over big time at $1,100. Different vehicle, but I installed my own trailer wiring in a few hours work on our first vehicle (My current one had the factory plug-in). Not a simple job, but not a job that should ever cost $1,100. No way.

2.) It's not a question, you will need a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH), and most likely sway control. Look on amazon and on e-trailer. Not that you have to buy from there, but you can get an idea of price, whats included, set-up, etc. Also read through the reviews and questions can be a good source of information. Then from there if you need, go to the manufactures websites. Also, look for youtube videos on how to install and set up a WDH. For me, I purchased my own, and the dealer set it up the first time when I bought my camper. Then I set it up on my 2nd vehicle myself.

3.) As far as the length of the ball mount, look at manufactures websites. They have WDH shanks (which are basically what everything mounts to) that extend to different lengths and heights. With my 23B on my Navigator, I had to buy a special shank from Amazon because the 23B sits so low, I needed the WDH to drop farther than what came stock originally with my WDH set-up. This one extends 14". Amazon.com: CURT 17121 Adj Hitch Bar 14 In X 6 In With 10 1/4 In Rise: Automotive


EDIT: Also confirm which hitch receiver you have. It seems there is a fairly popular 'bolt-on' hitch, which is not sufficient for a camper. Be sure it's a full Class III (at least) hitch receiver.

EDIT 2: Maybe some good info for you: http://www.rangerovers.net/outfittin.../lm/index.html
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:09 AM   #8
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You may want to consider the below items or something similar
can be found on e-trailer

Curt Welded Adjustable Weight Distribution Shank - 16"
Replacement Head for Reese Weight Distribution System
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:24 AM   #9
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There is a section here on the forum
Towing, Hitching and Tow Vehicles
Suggest that you read through the different post as there is some very good information that will help you and will also cause you to ask questions. So just ask and you will get help.

Just because a vehicle is rated to tow a certain weight doesn't mean that it can do it safely. There is a big difference in towing a 6000 lb TT as compared to towing a flatbed trailer loaded with flat items that weighs the same.
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddybar View Post
1.) are you just getting the wiring installed? Not a hitch receiver or anything? If it's just the wiring, you are getting screwed over big time at $1,100. Different vehicle, but I installed my own trailer wiring in a few hours work on our first vehicle (My current one had the factory plug-in). Not a simple job, but not a job that should ever cost $1,100. No way.

That's my concern but I've done so much research regarding '08 range rovers it appears as though we need a dealership to do it with an OEM wiring harness and then brakes (tekonsha p3.... Something like that). The wiring harness costs around $350. The electric brake is costly. But yeah... That part kills me. DH and I don't want to mess with wiring and screw something up but I do kind of think it can be DIY...
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:48 PM   #11
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Since you asked, I would contact these folks:

Trailer, Plow, & Sander Service - The Trailer Depot, Connecticut

Just tell them everything you need to do to your RR and ask for an estimate. I'd be curious the difference in price.

Murff
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:08 PM   #12
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Whatever you do, don't take the trailer dealer's word for what your vehicle can tow. They no nothing about your payload capacity or GCWR--which mean as much, if not MORE, than towing capacity.

Yeah, you may be able to tow 7700 lbs. Will you feel comfortable doing it with your vehicle? Probably not. Even 5000 lbs. with all the extra stuff may be pushing it.

Ask the experts in the forums listed above. Trust them over the dealer.
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Old 08-05-2015, 05:40 AM   #13
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I'm assuming the dealer is also installing the electric brake controller in your vehicle? Even so, $1100.00 seems steep. I did this on my 2000 Ford Ranger, and my current tow vehicle, a 2007 Ford F150, and doing BOTH was less than half that for what they are wanting to charge you. Granted there's a labor charge, and if we assume the average going rate of $90.00 an hour, it would take a knowing shop that has done this before maybe 2 to 3 hours, tops. So that's $270.00 in labor. Subtract this from the $1100.00 the dealer wants, and you are left with an $830.00 charge for parts. That's a lot for a hitch/receiver, ball, electric brake controller, and wiring.


Locate a U-Haul dealership in your area and get a quote from them; I'm betting it will be much less.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:53 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by tylersdad View Post
Whatever you do, don't take the trailer dealer's word for what your vehicle can tow. They no nothing about your payload capacity or GCWR--which mean as much, if not MORE, than towing capacity.

Yeah, you may be able to tow 7700 lbs. Will you feel comfortable doing it with your vehicle? Probably not. Even 5000 lbs. with all the extra stuff may be pushing it.

Ask the experts in the forums listed above. Trust them over the dealer.
Clearly, I'm incapable of late-night thought. That should be "They KNOW nothing", not "They NO nothing". For some reason I can't edit posts anymore.
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Old 08-11-2015, 03:30 PM   #15
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Somersles Is it safe to assume that the tires you have on the RR have the same rating as the oem tires that came with your RR. They are a big factor in the tow rating. It doesn't sound like your RR has a " tow package" so things like a oil cooler or a trans cooler are not on your RR. You may want to find out what comes on a RR tow package and be sure you have those items for safe and happy towing. just my $.02 Larry
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:15 AM   #16
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You certainly need a wiring harness, however most vehicles are pre-wired. Which means that there's probably a plug under the dash to plug the brake controler into and a plug somewhere near the rear of the vehicle to plug the couple of feet of wire that runs from the hitch mounted 7-pin plug. It's not like you actually have to have new wires run from the dash to the hitch.

You may be able to go with an aftermarket kit, like this:
Range Rover Sport Trailer Wiring Kit (Part # YWJ500170)

Or you may be better off getting the OEM kit. But you can get the kit and put it on your self or have somebody other than RR do it.

Same with the hitch, you can get OEM or aftermarket and put it on yourself or have somebody else do it.

"tow mode" may not be BS as somebody else posted. From what I know about VW's: Today's computer controlled vehicles are smart. When enabled, "tow mode" changes the shift points of the transmission for example when the system detects a trailer is attached. When you get a vehicle from the factory with the tow package, they'd would have enabled this. Since you're adding the towing package after the fact you'll have to get it turned on. You may have to get this done at RR (and you might need OEM wiring harness for it to work). Although, even there all you need is the right tools (software/hardware connected to diagnostic port) & knowledge and you can turn it on yourself.

Factory tow packages usually include a transmission cooler. But for instance, all Honda Ridgelines include a transmission cooler even if they don't come from the factory with hitch and harness. So you may or may not need a cooler. Again, OEM or aftermarket is a decision to make.

I suggest poking around here:
RangeRovers.net Forum

And see what other RR owners are saying. If it's anything like the Honda Ridgeline forums, they will be able to help you understand exactly what you need and be able to guide you in the OEM vs aftermarket choices.
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