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08-08-2013, 08:46 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 50
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Hitch Procedure Question
Hi all
When we picked up our new X17Z trailer, we received some orientation on how to properly hitch the trailer. The process shown to us was to raise the trailer tongue, back up the tow vehicle, and lower the tongue onto the hitch ball. We were then instructed to raise the tongue (while attached to the tow vehicle) to the maximum height, before attaching our 2 weight distribution bars, safety chains and sway bar, after which we would lower the tongue and fully retract the tongue pole.
I'm questioning the last part of the process. Does this make sense to you?
Thanks.
Bob
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08-08-2013, 09:08 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 34
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Hitch Procedure Question
Yes. That puts tension on the bars at ride height. Otherwise they aren't doing anything.
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08-08-2013, 10:01 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,769
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That is how we do it with our Equalizer brand WDH. However, we only raise it only as high as we need to. For example when we unhook; we lift (hand crank) the unit up, every so often I tap the bars with my foot. Once both bars are free of tension they move easily, that is when I stop cranking. I do about the same to install the bars.
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08-08-2013, 11:46 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 62
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I think a lot of it is hitch-dependent. I stopped lifting my TV with the hitch, as I get the same tension on the bars either way. It takes a little more muscle to get my bars in place but nothing too crazy. I have a Blue Ox hitch, but noticed the same with my friend's WD Reese hitch. It's silly, but I wasn't too comfortable lifting my TV with the hitch. I just feel like it's unnecessary wear on the hitch and jack. When I see the TV starting to drop, I stop and put on the WD bars. Same with disconnecting.
__________________
---
Tim
2015 Thor Outlaw w/ FJ Cruiser Toad
Former owner - 2013 Jayco X20E
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08-08-2013, 12:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
Posts: 5,063
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Be sure you also connect the electrical and break-away lanyard.
Don't ask why I think this is important.
__________________
Cheers,
T_
2013 F-350 CC SB 2WD 6.7PS
2013 Eagle Premier 351 RLTS
-SOLD- 2012 X23B
-SOLD- 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4, Bilstein shocks
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08-08-2013, 04:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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Once the trailer is secured to the ball, I snap up the round bars. In my situation there is no need to raise the TV with the jack in order to snap up the bars. The pipe handle works fine.
__________________
2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
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08-08-2013, 06:26 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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One reason for raising the TV/HTT a little when engaging the standard WDH spring bar is to remove some of the load on the snap-up bracket arm while raising the spring bar tail. When raising the spring bar tail the chain travels "outward" of the HTT A-frame, and in some cases this added chain pull force can bend the snap-up bracket "saddle" that sets over the top of the HTT A-frame. On another RV forum a guy had the snap bracket actually pop off the A-frame while engaging the spring bar.
This is the same reason that once the snap-up bracket has the spring bar engaged, the chain should hang parallel (vertical) to the A-frame when under load.
Just food for thought.
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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08-08-2013, 07:29 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 550
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I also have the equalizer hitch and no longer raise the TV with the Jack. I have been lowering it until I can put on the bars and then drop it all the way down on the ball. I also unhook it the same way. I am not sure if it makes a difference or not but dont like the extra steps....
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08-09-2013, 12:45 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Twin Falls
Posts: 930
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I do it the same way as Monkeyclaw and Mcfarmall, just use common sense, even if you do lift your TV with the trailer jack, then just barely lift enough to take the tension off the bars, otherwise, you really don't need to lift it.
__________________
2011 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins
2012 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 297 BHS
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08-09-2013, 04:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned campsite topography. I have found this has A LOT to do with how difficult it is attach my bars. If I'm on a mound or level ground - no problem....in a dip or the vehicles are twisted?....it's tongue jack or bar tool time.....
I found it easiest in those situations to pull out onto more level ground - and then apply the bars.
Reverse is true if I'm pulling onto a wicked patch of ground. If I have to pull or back one side of the TT onto several pads of blocks to level it.....then I've probably twisted the two vehicles to the point where I'm almost guaranteed a lot of tension on one side of the bars or the other......so again, I find it works for me to remove the bars before setting up the TT on non-level sites.
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08-09-2013, 07:54 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,720
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Yes it is right to do it that way.. it is why so many of us went with power tongue jacks..
__________________
Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days /2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
93/2020,157/2019219/2018 206/2017,215/2016, 211/2015, 196/14, 247/13, 193/12
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08-09-2013, 09:42 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 34
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Hitch Procedure Question
If you don't put tension on the bars, then you really aren't using them.
Not everyone needs them, and not everyone realizes that.
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