New Hybrid . .. soft floor .. is this normal?

[SecretCoveDave]

When you start the process a few pic's would help in the education process, for me anyway.
Thanks for sharing the info so far.

[Lolead]

If you decide to place plywood over the floor, I would consider bonding the new floor over the old with some type of high strength epoxy made for wood and also screwing the new floor to insure a good bond. I THINK this would make a more ridgid structure. I am sure someone more knowledgeable than myself could advise better but this is what I would consider. Hope this helps, Dave

[Frank Rader]

Thanks. I'll discuss that with the contractor and we'll probably try glue on a portion. Screws into luan/foam/luan will not hold, but your comment gives me the idea to run a screw through the plywood, through the sandwich and into a wooden plate installed to hold the screw.

Another concern is a smooth surface if we use 1/4" plywood. Not lots of counter sink there.

[slabat]

I agree with not much room in 1/4 inch for sinking screws and also agree with your thoughts on going all the way through the floor and securing to something on the bottom to pull everythign together.

[Frank Rader]

Maybe an improved idea? May I'll try screwing into metal strips that are then bolted or welded to something else?

[Hitch Pin]

Here's the thing that's being over looked, you can overlay the floor with the best wood out there and your still going to have a weak floor. There's just not enough supports under the floor.

We had a trailer that had this same problem, Jayco removed every thing from inside, I mean every thing, They glued down 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" hardwood to the old floor from wall to wall, after we got it back, we took it camping and within four days of walking on the floor, we were right back where we started. Jayco wanted to try adding some steel supports under the floor, and I said no, the reason I said no was, because the wood and the glue that they used on the new floor had all most killed the carrying capacity of the trailer, and the steel supports was going to kill the rest of it.

The trailer had other problems to, we was able to get our money back, That's when we got the Jayflight 23RB.

[Frank Rader]

Big thanks! I've been searching for someone who has done what I am contemplating and you are the 1st. You had the factory or a dealer do yours and they could not stop it? WOW!

Do you know the smallest camper Jayco makes that has a real floor?

Weight is a big factor, pointed out elsewhere in this thread, and I'm dealing with 550 useful (3,500 - 2,950 dry). I've increased useful by carrying spare tire in truck rather than mounted on trailer and decreased useful by changing from one 30# propane tank (factory) to two 20# (my mod), then increased it again by carrying the 2nd tank in the bed of the truck, so I'm weight aware.

What the guy I mentioned earlier, the one who used to sell Jayco and now sells cars, told me is the best use would be to park the camper somewhere I needed a hunting or other retreat. I can put it on jack stands so tires are not an issue and put as much flooring in as I like because weight is not as big a factor.

Interestingly there is a sailing club near me where everyone stays in campers that never move. I could probably sell mine to someone there.

So, who else in this thread has overplayed a sponge, excuse me, sandwich floor and what is the outcome?

[Hitch Pin]

Originally Posted by Frank Rader

Big thanks! I've been searching for someone who has done what I am contemplating and you are the 1st. You had the factory or a dealer do yours and they could not stop it? WOW!

Do you know the smallest camper Jayco makes that has a real floor?

Weight is a big factor, pointed out elsewhere in this thread, and I'm dealing with 550 useful (3,500 - 2,950 dry). I've increased useful by carrying spare tire in truck rather than mounted on trailer and decreased useful by changing from one 30# propane tank (factory) to two 20# (my mod), then increased it again by carrying the 2nd tank in the bed of the truck, so I'm weight aware.

What the guy I mentioned earlier, the one who used to sell Jayco and now sells cars, told me is the best use would be to park the camper somewhere I needed a hunting or other retreat. I can put it on jack stands so tires are not an issue and put as much flooring in as I like because weight is not as big a factor.

Interestingly there is a sailing club near me where everyone stays in campers that never move. I could probably sell mine to someone there.

So, who else in this thread has overplayed a sponge, excuse me, sandwich floor and what is the outcome?

Check this site out.
Jay Flight SLX Travel Trailers | Jayco, Inc.

[bucko]

This thread has been scary to read through. It made me look at the undersides of my 2014 Jayco 16XRB to see if I would have simular problems in the future. I'm impressed with what I saw in the way of the frame and floor beams itself; it appears that perhaps Jayco saw a design flaw, and corrected this at some point.

[VicS1950]

Interesting thread. These comments related to possible repair options apply to older trailers. Certainly not to any trailer under warranty. I would pursue warranty if applicable.

If overall lack of floor support is the problem, is adding structure underneath a possibility?

I completely agree with the added weight concerns. Typical structural steel angles and shapes are much heavier than needed for a trailer and will add unnecessary weight. I would investigate the possibility of custom made galvanized sheet metal channels similar to the one in the picture below. The channel is very strong for its weight.

I would also get away from a parallel structure mindset. The open spaces to mimic the original structure may not exist. There may be opportunities to add structure going from existing structure to existing structure at angles which will provide the area/spot additional support needed and fit in to avoid obstructions. The new structure doesn't need to be symmetrical, it is under a trailer.

The existing under framing is not your only option for added structure support. It may also be possible to support the new channel(s) (if channel is appropriate) by through bolts and distribution plates going from under one normally hidden cabinet space to another. I find that galvanized steel electrical covers can work well as ready made load distribution plates.

Galvanized Unistrut channel and fittings is also a possibility for a ready made source of structural materials. It comes in various gauges and sizes.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/st...-slotted-14-ga

I say the above with having not looked under the trailers in question.

FWIW. vic



http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...ort-12743.html

[Frank Rader]

If asked I'd steer buyers away from sandwich construction floors. For new to camping shoppers one way to figure this out would be to find this thread.

At the time I bought in Sep, 2009, my gross weight limit was 3,800 lbs and tongue weight limit 500 lbs. The 2008 Jayco 17c Ex-port was the smallest, lightest camper we could find with a full service, 3 am, bathroom. It was rated better than competition and had the advantage of smooth, easily maintained surfaces. (My gas truck is rated for 5,050 lbs towing and sources said to pull no more than 75% of that number.)

Reviewing that decision focused on the 3 am bathroom and a planned 7 week summer camping trip and others, I now believe I purchased (used) the best of a fundamentally flawed type of camper if I wish to keep it many years, which I do.

We like camping, but increasingly it looks like a new camper and a new tow truck to remain on the field of play. Poowy.

[Hitch Pin]

Originally Posted by VicS1950

Interesting thread. These comments apply to older trailers. Certainly not to any trailer under warranty.

Not so with ours, it was a new 2014 and under warranty. The first trip out the floor started getting real soft and went down hill from there. I've talked to others that have the same problem as well.

[VicS1950]

Originally Posted by Hitch Pin

Not so with ours, it was a new 2014 and under warranty. The first trip out the floor started getting real soft and went down hill from there. I've talked to others that have the same problem as well.

Changed to:

Originally Posted by VicS1950

Interesting thread. These comments related to possible repair options apply to older trailers. Certainly not to any trailer under warranty. I would pursue warranty if applicable.

Sorry for any confusion.

vic

[Frank Rader]

Thank you. Clever idea to put a plate and bolt under a cabinet, run through the floor and through a new metal support that is held at the other end by another through bolt & plate.

Another thought is to use aluminum supports when adding any. I live in NASCAR fabrication country where this skill exists.

A concern is if I support a soft spot here, another there, will a third begin where not supported? Where does this sandwich stuff work? I'll think about taking up as much existing, failing product as I can and replacing with maybe an aluminum tray and sheet of something.

My next trick is to take portable scales and weigh a sheet of 1/4 plywood. It is raining out and that may be all I can do today.

[VicS1950]

Originally Posted by Frank Rader

Thank you. Clever idea to put a plate and bolt under a cabinet, run through the floor and through a new metal support that is held at the other end by another through bolt & plate.

Another thought is to use aluminum supports when adding any. I live in NASCAR fabrication country where this skill exists.

A concern is if I support a soft spot here, another there, will a third begin where not supported? Where does this sandwich stuff work? I'll think about taking up as much existing, failing product as I can and replacing with maybe an aluminum tray and sheet of something.

My next trick is to take portable scales and weigh a sheet of 1/4 plywood. It is raining out and that may be all I can do today.

I can't answer your questions about what will happen with a soft spot here and there, or the exact construction of your floor structure.

My approach would be to deal with the known problem areas and see where it goes. Unless the OEM design is so seriously lacking as to result in catastrophic failure (I doubt it) you can deal with new problems when (if?) they arise. You are not likely to increase the resale value of your older camper. My goal would be good serviceability with minimal effort.

The areas under cabinets and other hidden places should have seen the least stress so should work fine with plates. You can always increase the size or number of plates if crushing is a concern. My experience with my added plates and supports is that they don't interfere any in the dead storage areas.

Aluminum sounds great. Price is sometimes prohibitive. A possible installation concern when the aluminum bridges the steel frame would be galvanic action over time.

Good luck. vic

[Frank Rader]

I'm to the point of going under to see what I have. I have light rain all day so maybe tomorrow will jack up and roll under and take pictures. With pictures we can keep this tread going another week!

My idea after the pictures is to cut the linoleum floor and see what the top of the sandwich looks like. Pray it simple like tossing down some fitted boards and rolling on?

[Frank Rader]

About buying new, I bought used but still under warranty. The warranty handled fixing our pop out tents. I was happy Jayco and the dealer were so responsive.

If I have to replace we'll start by looking new but probably buy used.

[wags999]

If you do apply new plywood to the floor, I would try and place the joints over the existing support structure, rather than placing a join at the mid point of the support. Baltic Birch 1/4" is 5 ply, much stronger than other 1/4" ply material. If you can handle the weight the 3/8" BB would be even stronger. Also BB comes in 5' X 5' sheets which should make placing joints over support somewhat easier. A floor can be structurally sound and still have some give to it. This may be the case in your situation, no matter what you do. Good Luck and do keep us posted. .

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by Frank Rader

I'm to the point of going under to see what I have. I have light rain all day so maybe tomorrow will jack up and roll under and take pictures. With pictures we can keep this tread going another week!

My idea after the pictures is to cut the linoleum floor and see what the top of the sandwich looks like. Pray it simple like tossing down some fitted boards and rolling on?

Perhaps a new thread should be opened with your project and progress as there are now many posts regarding your soft floor issue in these older threads. Just a suggestion...

[SecretCoveDave]

The moderator blood runs deep indeed Crabby! An excellent suggestion, especially as the pics roll in.