Outside wall thickness?

[Rick56]

Does anyone know how thick the outside walls are on an x17z?
I am thinking about getting a medicine type cabinet to replace the mirror in the bathroom. Are the walls thick enough to use the standard plastic type screw anchors or toggle bolts?

Thanks!

[3'senough]

Check one of the following, window frame, door or hatch. Somewhere you can get you fingers on the inside and outside wall and pinch it.

I would be verrrryyy carful though. Maybe silicon or several strips of double sided tape may be a better option than screws. Toggles are out of the question there.

[Rick56]

Why didn't I think of that??

It looks like the outside wall is about 1.5 inches thick. Doesn't leave much room does it? The plastic anchors I have are 1 inch long so maybe by using sheet metal screws with the anchors and 3m tape I could get a medicine cabinet to stick. Other option is to mount it on an inside wall. Here is the cabinet I'm looking at:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_108718-444-3...7C0&facetInfo=

What do you all think?

[3'senough]

I know the look you're going for but I think the weight is going to be an issue unless you can confirm you hit a stud/beam. I would not use any screw longer than 1" because you might hit the outer skin. The inside wall leaves more options and better mounting capabilities for sure.

Maybe one of the light weight plastic recessed units would be more appropriate in this situation. That oak one has to weigh a good 10#'s and while going down the road is going to be looking to come down.

[norty1]

You can use an electronic stud finder to locate the studs, then drill a mounting hole inside the cabinet to anchor it in several places on that stud.

Not sure about the thickness of you rig but if you stay under 1 inch screws you should ok. Go slow, I picked up the wrong length screw once and ran 6 screws in a straight line thru the outside fiberglass.

[mcfarmall]

I wonder how well the Zip-It wall anchors would work. They are the plastic ones that auger themselves into sheetrock. I'll bet they'd work on the RV walls with the foam in between like the 23B. I have a slug of wall leftover from my shore power install that I'll make a test installation on and post pics if it works.

[Rick56]

Thanks for the replies. I'm not going to make any rash decisions until I've scoped things out some more! The zip-it wall anchors do look promising:

http://www.powers.com/product_02345.php

[Quahog]

Originally Posted by Rick56

Thanks for the replies. I'm not going to make any rash decisions until I've scoped things out some more! The zip-it wall anchors do look promising:

http://www.powers.com/product_02345.php

Rick,

I installed some wire shelving in the ward in our bathroom on a 22FB that came with these fasteners and they worked out real nice. I drilled the hole until I just felt it go through, then pressed the clip into place. Finally, there is a nail looking thing that pushes into it. Seems to be sturdy and it's removable if you ever decide to take them out.

Since you're installing a medicine cabinet vs. shelving, I just wanted to point out that there was sufficient space in the wall not to interfere with the outside shell at all. These were an inch long if I remember correctly.

[Rick56]

Thanks Mike. That's another good possibility. I am beginning to think that a wooden cabinet is going to be too heavy. I may look around for a plastic one although I don't want it to look to cheap!

[Quahog]

Originally Posted by Rick56

Thanks Mike. That's another good possibility. I am beginning to think that a wooden cabinet is going to be too heavy. I may look around for a plastic one although I don't want it to look to cheap!

We have a medicine cabinet in our 22FB. I do know it's screwed into the stud. Maybe Jayco will sell you one. You can also write them and request the stud layout of your trailer... that would help when deciding on a best location for mounting.

[Rick56]

Good idea Mike, thanks!

[mcfarmall]

Check the RV salvage places. They will likely have one made for RVs that would work for you for low dough.

[Phar0e]

I have seen some wicker looking cabinents which would be lighter than wood if you can find one that opens up. sometimes they have a rack underneath them for a towel. maybe even a second hand store or a craft store

[Rick56]

I hadn't thought about wicker, that's a good idea.
I did take a stud finder and it appears that there is a brace in the center of the wall running vertically. My concern now is removing the existing mirror that appears to be taped to the wall. I know of the fish line trick, just not sure what it will do to the wall. I guess if I put up a cabinet over the spot it won't matter anyway :hihi:

[my toys]

I did that and other mods. http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/578459595FvqQNt

[Quahog]

Originally Posted by my toys

I did that and other mods. http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/578459595FvqQNt

Can't get to your photo page... don't know if we overloaded it or the link is bad. I'd like to see your mods so maybe you can attach the photos (use the paperclip on the toolbar above),

[Rick56]

Same here. Link doesn't work

[my toys]

Sorry typo should be a small "f". Try this one.http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/578459595fvqQNt

[Rick56]

My Toys- thanks for taking the time to take all those pictures. They are a great reference.

Was the mirror you removed in the bathroom taped to the wall or did they use construction adhesive? How did you remove the mirror? Can you remember where you got the medicine cabinet? And what did you use to secure it to the wall? LOL lots of questions!

Thanks for the help!!

[my toys]

The mirror used double sided tape. I got the medicine cabinet at Lowe's. It was in stock; no special order or anything. It doesn't weigh much. For some reason I am thinking there were already holes in the wall??? Memory is not what it used to be. If not, I just drilled one hole in each corner and used plastic wall anchors. I used alot of double sided tape. Probably went overboard. It is solid as a rock.