Running lights flashing when using directional.

[marshvegasmike]

Own a 2011 x23j, last month we had to have wiring underneath replaced due to pup chewing wiring to brake and both tanks. Picked up trailer a few weeks later, first had trouble with one of the tail lights not working, fiddled with light and got both working, no problem coming home with lights, (son was following behind) During the short trip of back roads never really felt like the brakes were grabbing. Didn't think much of it, though I slide the brake controller over to high and didn't feel the usual pull when doing that.
Talked to a neighbor and fellow TT owner about it. He suggested that I hook up the tt to tv and have someone press on the brakes and listen for the hum in the hub as they are magnetic.
Did that yesterday and couldn't hear a thing, plus, my lights started acting screwy. First, just one tail light only, (with tv lights on), fiddled with pig tail and all lights came on, (including running lights) but when I went to check directions, ALL lights started flashing. (including running lights) Fiddled again with pig tail and tv connector, got all lights to work correctly. Haven't move it yet to check brakes and brake lights.
Am a newbie with TT and no electrical experience but was wondering if flashing lights are an indication to something.
First thought is the repair place screwed up the wiring but now inclined to think maybe the connector on tv or pig tail.
Would like any thoughts or input on the matter, they would be greatly appreciated. We are scheduled to head out at the end of the month. Bluegrass festival in N.H. and then on to Lake George in N.Y. BTW, TV is a 2001 f150.

[WVDusty]

Sounds like a weak ground to me.

[NVGun40]

Originally Posted by WVDusty

Sounds like a weak ground to me.

Agreed. Sounds like a weak ground. If everything worked fine before the pup chewed things and before the repair shop, you may want to check everything over from tongue to tail paying close attention to all grounding points. Sometimes there is corrosion at a grounding point and when a repair shop does a repair they don't always clean an area off before completing the repair and connected a new ground to a corroded area.

[DocBrown]

Agree also that it's probably the ground. I get this too from time to time, especially in the spring when it hasn't been connected for a while. You might also want to spray the contacts on the 7 pin connector, both TV and trailer, with contact cleaner.

[bedrck46]

Where did the dog chew the wiring at. The main wiring harness or elsewhere? Also if you can post a pic of that area.

[mike837go]

Get a pin-out of the 7 pin connector (plenty of pix online)


Since 12V hot is available at the connector, jumper to each use in turn to see if everything is hooked up properly.


To test the brake magnets, jack up a wheel and have an assistant spin it when you momentarily apply full power to the brakes.


The title to your post says the running lights were flashing. The signal to the brakes is a pulse-width-modulated square wave. If you hooked a lamp to the output of a brake controller, you would see the lamp flicker depending on how much trailer braking was being called for.


Again, check that the repair was done 100% correctly first. Then search for more exotic issues (bad grounds, chaffed wires, poor connection to the tow, etc.).

[tnchuck100]

Originally Posted by mike837go

Get a pin-out of the 7 pin connector (plenty of pix online)


Since 12V hot is available at the connector, jumper to each use in turn to see if everything is hooked up properly.


To test the brake magnets, jack up a wheel and have an assistant spin it when you momentarily apply full power to the brakes.


The title to your post says the running lights were flashing. The signal to the brakes is a pulse-width-modulated square wave. If you hooked a lamp to the output of a brake controller, you would see the lamp flicker depending on how much trailer braking was being called for.


Again, check that the repair was done 100% correctly first. Then search for more exotic issues (bad grounds, chaffed wires, poor connection to the tow, etc.).

While I understand how PWM works I have never heard of one used for RV's. Who manufactures this type of controller?

Most brake controllers are of the proportional variety. It only varies the voltage applied to the brakes. Not PWM.

[mike837go]

Originally Posted by tnchuck100

While I understand how PWM works I have never heard of one used for RV's. Who manufactures this type of controller?

Most brake controllers are of the proportional variety. It only varies the voltage applied to the brakes. Not PWM.

I won't argue the point. Having had CRS most of my life, I am usually confident in what I do remember. Though, I have been known to be wrong a time or two.

Time to re-read the manual.

[marshvegasmike]

Thanks for input guys, will try all suggestions. Consensus is a bad ground somewhere on trailer? Will check as well as test brake magnets. Took for test drive, lights were working, not feeling any braking motion. Red light on brake controller shines bright but not feeling anything. During test drive, left tail light would be on but no brake light or turn signal. Stopped and jiggled pigtail, light worked properly.
BTW, called repair place this morning to see if I could bring it in for them to check, CLOSED for vacation this week, sumbitch.

[marshvegasmike]

Bedrck 46 Will post pics in awhile, been at this all morning, need a bite to eat.

[Jagiven]

I would locate where the vendor did the wire spices and check that they wire nutted everything properly. A loose/stray wire touching something else could cause some issues.

[bedrck46]

Originally Posted by marshvegasmike

Bedrck 46 Will post pics in awhile, been at this all morning, need a bite to eat.

Best thing to do is walk away. Take a break and re-group. Sometimes working on a problem for any length of time can cause burn out. But what ever you do stay away from the beer save that for when you solve the problem. I always would tell people to start at point A and work towards point Z

My thoughts are with the area that the dog chewed thru. If everything was working before then that is the area I would pay attention to. If it in the main 7-wire harness then you may want to consider replacing the harness.

Just my thoughts.

[marshvegasmike]

I'm not familiar with posting pics here,but have figured it out a little. Below is the area where the splicing has taken place. Have been underneath and not noticed any fraying or splitting of wires. Have sprayed harness and pigtail with connect clean. Notice there is considerable oxidization on some of the prongs of the harness. May need to be replaced. Funny thing is, it is newer (installed when I purchased TT) than the pigtail but then again, it is more exposed. Had the pigtail covered in plastic over the brutal winter.

[bedrck46]

I hope you didn't pay good money for that wiring I would never had used those type of connectors and in the first pic they used to many of them, same for the second pic. the third pic looks ok in the a mount used but again I wouldn't have used those connectors. Would have been better to use butt connectors.


Is this where the dog chewed the wiring

[bedrck46]

One other comment is that the wires are hanging to low they should have some slack in them but should be kept above the axel

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by bedrck46

I hope you didn't pay good money for that wiring I would never had used those type of connectors and in the first pic they used to many of them, same for the second pic. the third pic looks ok in the a mount used but again I wouldn't have used those connectors. Would have been better to use butt connectors.


Is this where the dog chewed the wiring

Exactly!

That is a terrible installation. They did not need that many connectors. If the connectors are the silicone grease version they are ok. Personally, i would soder them, silicone grease, then heat shrink, to make a good long lasting connection with no potential corrosion down the road. ,Wire choice, maybe, maybe not. With the wires hanging down, you will snag it at some point on a branch or a block, that flips up, and rip them out.

Does anyone think maybe they crossed the wires to the brakes so, the ground wire actually hot?

[Murff]

Looking at the pics, I'd ask for a refund on their work and run, do not walk, away from this repair shop and find someone who knows what they are doing.

Looks like the salvaged pieces of wire with that many connectors!

Murff

[Edd505]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Exactly!

That is a terrible installation. They did not need that many connectors. If the connectors are the silicone grease version they are ok. Personally, i would soder them, silicone grease, then heat shrink, to make a good long lasting connection with no potential corrosion down the road. ,Wire choice, maybe, maybe not. With the wires hanging down, you will snag it at some point on a branch or a block, that flips up, and rip them out.

Does anyone think maybe they crossed the wires to the brakes so, the ground wire actually hot?

I agree solder, grease and heat shrink, the wires are under the TT and exposed to any moisture or salts on the roads. The wires are brake wires and you don't want to chance no brakes when you really need them. Good thought Jagiven My first thought looking at the pictures was reversed wires on the brakes. That could account for what seems a squirrely ground issue. That's where I would start as the problem started after the "repair".

[chuckworkb]

Regarding your running lights flashing - I had the same issue and as many have said it was a bad ground connection. My bad ground was at the trailer connection on the truck. The bad ground may also be causing your brake issues.

Regarding that wiring job, I agree too many connectors. If you are a little handy and can get safely under the camper, you should replace all short pieces of wire and connectors and solder the connections as suggested.

[norty1]

Never use crimped wiring on trailer brakes. The less soldered connections you have the better.