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Old 10-10-2016, 06:30 PM   #11
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The winters here in Manitoba aren't much different than Minnesota. An extra effort in the fall can save some serious money in the spring. I blow out the lines, pump antifreeze through, then blow them out again. That way, if there's anything remaining in the lines, it's just antifreeze. More work, I know, but it's better safe than sorry. In the spring, I fill the freshwater tank with sanitized water and pump it through until the remaining antifreeze is gone, and then let it sit for a while.
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:13 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Pomacanthus View Post
Im a total anti toxin type of guy and the thought of residual antifreeze makes me wary, not only that but you would have to flush it all back out.
One thing to be sure of is that you are using plumbing anti-freeze. This product is not toxic, that is why it is approved for winterizing drinking water systems. I wouldn't want to drink a glass of it, but it ain't gonna kill 'ya.

Same reason I use iosan to sanitize in the spring. This is the stuff farms use to sanitize milking equipment; makes me a lot more comfortable than using bleach. Although it does foam quite a bit and takes a little while to flush out of the system, it won't harm you.
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Old 10-13-2016, 04:34 PM   #13
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Dumb Question - Where is the bypass for the hot water heat? I decided for $6 worth of antifreeze it wasn't worth the risk. I opened the door to the hot water heater, removed the nut (nothing came out) but couldn't find the bypass valves...maybe they are inside under the seat? TIA
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Old 10-13-2016, 04:42 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Pomacanthus View Post
Dumb Question - Where is the bypass for the hot water heat? I decided for $6 worth of antifreeze it wasn't worth the risk. I opened the door to the hot water heater, removed the nut (nothing came out) but couldn't find the bypass valves...maybe they are inside under the seat? TIA
Yes, under the seat where ever the hot water heater is. There should be a removable access panel under the cushion.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:50 AM   #15
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$.02 from Alaska here. I blow my lines out with compressed air, not just at the low point drains but by rotating through every faucet as well. I then charge the whole system with RV antifreeze.
The reason, is there is always some residual water left in the faucet gaskets, and droplets throughout the lines. As temperatures change and condensation happens it is inevitable that you will end up with more water pooling in the low points of the lines. Generally, this isn't to much of a problem because the frozen water can still expand. What happens when that low point hits a fitting or elbow? Then as Delebra indicated, residual water which gets trapped into faucet gaskets and valves can cause just enough pressure to ensure you have a broken or leaky faucet next spring.
RV anitfreeze does more than just protecting the lines from freezing, it also provides a mild lubricant to keep the water pump internals smooth and faucet seals fresh and from drying out.
Of course there are variables as well. some climates people do fine just blowing the lines out and never have an issue. This all depends on their elevation, relative humidity and how low their temperatures get.
I know some areas of Minnesota can match us for low temperatures.

X2 on this. I am never convinced all the water is blown out when I do it so I blow, then add RV Antifreeze throughout. Best of both worlds and I've had zero problems up here in our Canadian Winters.
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Old 10-19-2016, 02:05 PM   #16
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Need advice on winter storage

I have a Jayco Jay Feather 17z Ultra Lite. This is my first winter with it. I need to purchase a cover as it will be stored outside. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas on the route to go? What do you do about the antenna on the top? I don't want to damage it?
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:14 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Kywomanmsu View Post
I have a Jayco Jay Feather 17z Ultra Lite. This is my first winter with it. I need to purchase a cover as it will be stored outside. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas on the route to go? What do you do about the antenna on the top? I don't want to damage it?
I would recommend starting a new thread, you will get more hits. As for the antenna, a Phillips screws driver will loosen a adjustment screw, tip it down and tighten.
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Old 10-21-2016, 07:39 AM   #18
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I have been using air for the last few years but had the filter bowl at the pump crack on my this year. My RV guy had dozens of them, I asked why and he said it is a common problem with getting all the water out of that area. He recommended using anti-freeze because of the seals in the pump a faucets. He said it keeps them lubricated and they last a lot longer.

So this year air then anti-freeze.

Happy trails,

Greg
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