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Old 12-09-2016, 06:21 PM   #1
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Question Atwood Furnace burner shuts off after 25-30 seconds

I own a 2015 Jayco 29RKS Elite and have experienced a strange situation with the furnace performance. The furnace acts normally when turned on, fan runs, then burner ignites normally, burner then shuts down after about 25-30 seconds. The blower continues to run and then after about 60-90 seconds then burner ignites again for about 25-30 seconds then the burner shuts down, fan continues. This cycle continues until the temperature reaches the setting on the thermostat. Is this a normal condition? Anyone else have this same situation?
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:31 PM   #2
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I just had the same problem with my 2016 27.5 rkds .I looked at the furnace had a loose ground wire and the furnace was out of place. I took it to my jayco dealer and had it fixed free of charge. (under warranty)
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Old 12-09-2016, 10:03 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by DennyR View Post
I own a 2015 Jayco 29RKS Elite and have experienced a strange situation with the furnace performance. The furnace acts normally when turned on, fan runs, then burner ignites normally, burner then shuts down after about 25-30 seconds. The blower continues to run and then after about 60-90 seconds then burner ignites again for about 25-30 seconds then the burner shuts down, fan continues. This cycle continues until the temperature reaches the setting on the thermostat. Is this a normal condition? Anyone else have this same situation?
Welcome to the forum.

Another member recently reported his furnace acting in a similar manner. It seemed his, and maybe your, furnace high temperature limit switch is shutting off the burner when the heat exchanger hits the temperature limit. If that's the case, it is not a good situation.

Make sure all your vents are open and clear of rugs, shoes, etc. to get the maximum air flow through the vents and furnace heat exchanger. If that doesn't correct it, you should get the furnace checked out ASAP.

Another possibility is that the high temp limit switch is defective and shutting off the burner too soon.

Hope that helps. Please let us know what you find out.
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Old 12-10-2016, 01:48 AM   #4
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My 2015 has the same issue,been to the dealer 4 times and still not fixed,they replaced sail switch,replaced and adjusted faulty regulator that blew apart internally and re adjusted said sail switch last time it went in,yet it still does the same thing you mention yours is doing,mine is out of warranty now but i spoke with jayco about the issue and they will still cover any repairs til it is fixed properly,so hopefully you can shed some light on yours once its fixed.
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:48 PM   #5
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:08 PM   #6
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If you use the furnace a lot the thermo coupler can get dirty and cause symptoms like this. Its a sensor thats part of the pilot light assembly, when it gets hot it opens the gas flow and allows the pilot to light, if it gets soot buildup it will cause the furnace to cycle on and off. You can take a small piece of sand paper to it to get it all clean. Here is a link so you know what to look for near where the flame is from the pilot, its the small tube on the end.

https://images.homedepot-static.com/...13-64_1000.jpg
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyR View Post
I own a 2015 Jayco 29RKS Elite and have experienced a strange situation with the furnace performance. The furnace acts normally when turned on, fan runs, then burner ignites normally, burner then shuts down after about 25-30 seconds. The blower continues to run and then after about 60-90 seconds then burner ignites again for about 25-30 seconds then the burner shuts down, fan continues. This cycle continues until the temperature reaches the setting on the thermostat. Is this a normal condition? Anyone else have this same situation?

Do you have the fan on high ? Moving more air may stop it from overheating and shutting the burner off. On most there is an electronic ignition no pilot light to light or keep lite.

Good Luck
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Old 12-09-2017, 10:08 PM   #8
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I thought with an electronic ignition, there was still a thermocouple that detects that the flame has lit the gas. If the thermocouple is bad, the control board thinks the gas failed to light after 30 secs and then shuts gas valve.
I think you can jump a thermocouple for a quick test.
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Old 09-20-2018, 02:47 AM   #9
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I'm adding to this thread a bit late in hopes this may help someone. My furnace did this from brand new on our 2017 Seismic 4113. As previously mentioned the furnace would go into an overheat condition and kept cutting out. I checked the warm air temperature with a laser thermometer at the vents when the burner was running and it was too hot. I can't quite recall the maximum temperature allowed but can probably look it up. This is why the furnace kept shutting down. When I removed the panel covering my furnace I noticed that there were spaces for two more vents that could be added and were never installed. As I remember there were only four of a maximum of six vents installed. After installing the remaining two vents my furnace ran cooler and didn't keep shutting down. When I again checked the air flow temperature at the floor vents it was back down within normal operating range. It looked like Jayco installed the thin basement wall tight against the furnace to provide more cargo room which did not allow installation of the last two vents. After installing the remaining vents I moved the wall slightly to accommodate this.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:45 AM   #10
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I'm adding to this thread a bit late in hopes this may help someone. My furnace did this from brand new on our 2017 Seismic 4113. As previously mentioned the furnace would go into an overheat condition and kept cutting out. I checked the warm air temperature with a laser thermometer at the vents when the burner was running and it was too hot. I can't quite recall the maximum temperature allowed but can probably look it up. This is why the furnace kept shutting down. When I removed the panel covering my furnace I noticed that there were spaces for two more vents that could be added and were never installed. As I remember there were only four of a maximum of six vents installed. After installing the remaining two vents my furnace ran cooler and didn't keep shutting down. When I again checked the air flow temperature at the floor vents it was back down within normal operating range. It looked like Jayco installed the thin basement wall tight against the furnace to provide more cargo room which did not allow installation of the last two vents. After installing the remaining vents I moved the wall slightly to accommodate this.
When you say you added 2 vents did you actually run new duct work or there was duct work there but not hooked up.I haven't taken mine out myself but there is 2 spots on the front of it where it looks like a duct can be installed.other then that it looks like it sits on top of a plenum that distributes it thru the floor vents.I rarely use my heater but when I do it's annoying when it shuts down every 30 seconds then turns back on.its been to the dealer 4 times and they said it's normal its supposed to cycle on and off but I know that's not how a heater is supposed to work
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Old 09-24-2018, 05:06 AM   #11
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I ran two more round flex lines from the furnace to the plenums. Sorry I guess I should have explained this in more detail. My furnace did the same as yours, ran for about 30 seconds and you could hear the burner cut out. It would overheat and a sensor would shut it down. When I looked at my furnace I noticed that there were two more spots on the side where round flex lines could be added. Also on my Seismic 4113 we were not getting any warm air coming thru the front bedroom floor register. After checking the temperature of the warm air coming out of the floor register by our couch section I found it was too hot, higher than recommended. Noting both of these issues I decided to add the two round vent lines from the furnace to the two plenums running forward and back of the trailer. There was a thin wall for the cargo or basement area squeezed right up against the furnace so I guess this is why they did not install the remaining two vents? From everything I had read about furnaces it was important to note that floor registers or vents should not be blocked off or this could happen (overheat condition). Knowing this I added the two round flex vent lines to help the furnace move that heat faster and prevent an over temp condition from building up. Yes the furnace did have two available spots to add the extra round vent lines. I did not cut out extra holes. After doing this my furnace no longer kept cutting out, rather it ran its full cycle. Now I believe the round vent lines are 4" if I remember so the thin cargo wall had to be moved slightly to accommodate the new lines. I did purchase the proper duct fitting to attach to the side of the furnace. I hope this clears things up?
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:52 PM   #12
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Yes it does thanks,I'll have to pull mine out and take a look at it,all my vents blow good but like you mentioned I believe not.good enough,my only option may be to add.a duct to the front of it and vent out a wall to hallway
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Old 04-02-2021, 01:33 AM   #13
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Furnace Burn Cycles

The purpose of the high-limit switch is shut off the burner when a certain safe temperature is reached in the heat exchanger. This is not a dangerous situation; it is an intended situation.

The fans job is to move air across the heat exchanger until the set point is reached (and circulate air through the combustion chamber –– there are two fan wheels on the same shaft).

It is up to the burner, ignitor and high limit switch to keep the heat exchanger hot –– this does not mean that the burner should be burning the entire time the fan is running. The sail switch verifies air movement in order for this circuit to function. If there is were to somehow be a failure of the sail switch to the shorted position and there was not sufficient air flow, then the high-limit switch would also serve as a safety quite quickly with no air flow to expel heat from the exchanger.

The system described in the original post is heating your RV efficiently and using less fuel than you expected.
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