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Old 09-05-2016, 08:27 PM   #1
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19H Roof Replacement

New member and first time poster. Didn't see anything on this so I thought I give somewhat of a write up on my replacing the roof/ceiling on my 19H.
It's out first RV and I didn't join a forum like I should have for hints, tips and tricks on keeping it well maintained - and now I'm paying for it. In hard work and cash.

The seal for the AC started leaking but it happened pretty slowly, at least the visual signs, and I didn't catch it in time. There were placed I could put my finger through the Luan from the inside. The roof coating looked great though. It actually got so bad the roof in the center was sagging about 2". So last weekend I started by taking off everything from the outside I could. Radio and tv antennas, fridge vent, tank vent covers, bathroom fan and skylight. Then I went to the sides and pulled the awning, gutters and spouts. Ne t everyone from the ceiling inside; lights, CO & smoke detectors and cabinets (including microwave and stereo). Then peeled off the roof liner and started removing the wood & styrofoam insulation.
Got to this point and had to stop.

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Old 09-06-2016, 08:31 AM   #2
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The next stage was to get the aluminum frame out of the trailer. After removing all the white roofing material and the flashing under it that give a smooth transition from roof to wall I had to pull what felt like several hundred staples that connect the wall to the frame and maybe a dozen screws that go from the top down into the wall frame. After that it was as simple as carefully lifting the frame out. Make sure all the screws connect the roof to the wall are removed, I had a couple that went up from the bathroom walls but since you have to open the walls to remove them I used a sawzall to cut these - I'll replace from the top when I put it back in.
Got the roof out and here is where I am now:


Next step it to take the roof into the garage and remove the rest of the materials and clean the frame by getting all the oxidation off. After that I will also clean the mating surface in the trailer.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:34 AM   #3
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Wow! What year is the TT?
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:14 AM   #4
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Dave - It's a 2007 but we bought it used two years ago. It didn't show signs of leaking at the time but shortly after I noticed some brown coloring on the ceiling.
Not sure if you're familiar with the ceiling in these but it is 1/8" luan (I believe) on top and bottom with foam sandwiched between with roof membrane on the outside and a paper for the ceiling. The water was coming out between seams of the ceiling and I don't know how long it had been that way but long enough to ruin it.
The new ceiling will be White .090 FRP Wall Board (looks like a textured wall/ceiling in a house) with R19 insulation. I haven't found the luan for the roof yet, it would be nice if I could find it in a single piece but I doubt that will happen. The top layer is Dicor BTF95W21 BriteTEK and I am using the Dicor install kit.


One thing I was curious about and there may be a good reason the manufacturers don't do it. If I made a small crown from left to right and front to back (maybe 1/8") to where the a/c unit is this should keep water from being able to sit at the a/c unit and leak.
I have also thought about wrapping the roof material all the way inside the cabin so if it does leak it will come inside to the floor (easily and quickly seen) instead of going into the roofing materials.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:32 AM   #5
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Quick question to save me some investigative work on my own 19H. In the dead space between the bathroom wall and the back wall above the bunk - are there any utilities or other obstructions? Thinking about opening this space above the toilet to make extra storage for towels etc.


I can't stand knowing that there is dead space inside my RV


Good luck with the restoration! That is one BIG project!
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott91370 View Post
One thing I was curious about and there may be a good reason the manufacturers don't do it. If I made a small crown from left to right and front to back (maybe 1/8") to where the a/c unit is this should keep water from being able to sit at the a/c unit and leak.
I have also thought about wrapping the roof material all the way inside the cabin so if it does leak it will come inside to the floor (easily and quickly seen) instead of going into the roofing materials.
Jayco does this on their wood framed truss roofs. The Jay Feathers use aluminum framing that I guess is not really able to do this? I suppose they could come up with an aluminum truss, but that would probably add cost to the unit.

BTW - another question. Ballpark budget for all this? Just wondering in case I ever have this problem. I'm about to attack a soft spot in the floor, and the potential cost of that is cause for pause.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:59 AM   #7
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Scott91370


By chance did the TT have a rooftop A/C unit?
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Old 09-06-2016, 03:24 PM   #8
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Looks like you are doing things right this time.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bankr63 View Post
Quick question to save me some investigative work on my own 19H.
There is some wiring for the lights but it should be easy enough to work around. I will be home early enough from work tomorrow so I'll get you a picture.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bankr63
BTW - another question. Ballpark budget for all this? Just wondering in case I ever have this problem. I'm about to attack a soft spot in the floor, and the potential cost of that is cause for pause.
As of now I'm at $1200 (much less than the $3000 the shops estimated). I don't think a floor would be as much - the epdm was about $500 of this total.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bedrck46 View Post
By chance did the TT have a rooftop A/C unit?
It does and not knowing about the loosening of the bolts that keep the seal tight is what caused this. ALWAYS check the bolts. Heck, at this rate tight bolts and a new seal every year would have save me a lot of headache.
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:03 PM   #10
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bankr63 - here are a couple of bad pics. I have a tarp on so I couldn't get a great overhead shot.
The space is roughly 48" wide, 13" form bathroom to rear and 12" deep.





If you look at the pic in post #2 you can see the opening as well.
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