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Old 11-20-2014, 08:31 AM   #21
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By the way, my furnace sits on the floor next to the hot water heater. The bathroom and bedroom are elevated so those ducts are up higher. The floor ducts for the main cabin, have to be accessed underneath the floor so those vent lines run underneath somewhere that I cannot see. I also have surge protection hardwired in behind my inverter so space is really at a premium around the furnace. Could only be removed one way and that was through the basement wall.
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Old 11-20-2014, 12:08 PM   #22
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My floor in the 338 rets is 2 by 3 stud built and the ductwork is actually built in between the studs wrapped with galvanized sheet metal ... now how the furnace is connected to it is another story lol
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:08 PM   #23
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I also have heater issues with my 314bhds.From the gate I figured for the Eagle Premier id get a better thermostat than a crappy analog one,I've seen cheaper campers come with a descent digital stat.I was away from work and it started to get cold,tried to run the heater and it wouldn't run unless I put thermostat above 75 degrees,i had a digital thermometer in the trailer and it was reading 64 deg,so thermo set a 70 it should have kicked on but wouldn't,i do understand that these thermos are +/-5 to 6 deg off but that's sorry in my eyes,once it did start to run it would run for a few minutes then flame would shut off and fan would stay on,then after a few minutes the flame would kick back on and run then shut off again,the entire time it does this it starts to blow cold air as the heater is cooled down.I replaced thermo with a direct digital replacement hoping that would fix my issue,still had same issues and noticed now that when flame shut off would take longer at times to restart and blew cold air out which made furnace try to run longer to get selected temperature,it also would take 3 times to start sometimes,according to atwood's manual it should have locked out but it didn't and that's another issue.I had a authorized mobile repair man per Jayco since I called them and complained that I was away and couldn't get to dealer come out and look,he did find the white ground cable was loose on the unit,but he also said that it's possible when they insulated underbelly someone jammed insulation against the flimsy ducts and it's restricting flow and it's causing the heater to overtemp and that's why flame is shutting off during operation cause heat build up and not enough air flow.My trailer is set up with heater on the bottom and hot water heater on top of that separated by a shelf then a closet on top.I also cant read what model I have or see what the leds are doing because I cant get to control panel. Sorry for the long story but I feel the original posters anger because this has caused me many a headaches and money,jayco needs to step up their quality control instead of bragging about making a trailer in 8 hours,other than my heater I do love my trailer...
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:14 AM   #24
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Another week passes by and another week of me calling the dealer ship and them not remembering who I am or what the problem is. This is nuts! Nearly 4 weeks and still no working furnace!!! I am about to blow a gasket!!!!
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:19 AM   #25
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My heat does work but will shut down on overtemp and restart again,it's better than nothing but still there is a issue with it,once I get the trailer up to temp I use 2 space heaters to keep the trailer warm.I take mine in for service on DEC 10,i plan on taking them in the trailer and seeing the issue so there is no mis communication as to what it's doing
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:21 AM   #26
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In the almost 3 years since I've had my Eagle, I've never once turned on the furnace. After reading this thread, I'm thinking maybe I should try it sometime. It's located behind a large wooded "vent" under the tv and looks as if it could be removed fairly easily. I've had the vent off plenty of times because my black tank flush line runs through there and I check it for leaks quite often.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:55 AM   #27
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My heat does work but will shut down on overtemp and restart again,it's better than nothing but still there is a issue with it,once I get the trailer up to temp I use 2 space heaters to keep the trailer warm.I take mine in for service on DEC 10,i plan on taking them in the trailer and seeing the issue so there is no mis communication as to what it's doing
If the flame shuts off but the fan still runs and the it automatically relights. You certainly have a problem and its most likely the same one I am having.. It's called "limiting" and its a temp sensor that causes it when the unit overheats. You should not use the furnace in this condition. Everytime it overheats you run the risk of cracking the heat exchanger. Which will cause carbon monoxide to enter your breathing air. Not to mention its a fire hazard. Defiantly make sure you show them the problem, and test it in front of them before you take it back home. Hope it works out!
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:51 PM   #28
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well i have mine in for warranty and told them to fire my furnace and check to see if it is working properly ... don't camp much when its cold but want to make sure its right if I do need it
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:21 PM   #29
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In short I will explain how the electronic operated Atwood furnace works.

The thermostat (TH) turned up and switch on the TH in ON position calls for heat; which in turn tells the furnace to fire up (high limit ON)
The fan will start and blows cold air. The same fan is hooked also to the combustion fan which in turn clears the burning chamber from any gasses out through the flu pipe (is called purge cycle). After approx. 60 sec. when all the electronics switches are in line it will tell the gas valve to open and ignite on the same time.

If there is air in the lines the furnace will trip and you have to reset the TH switch to of and then the above cycle will repeat. In order to speed up this process; after you turn on the LPG at the bottle (do this slow) then light first your stove burners. Turn the burners off after there is a normal flame. After this in most cases the furnace will start after the first try.

When you feel the heat coming from the registers the furnace will trip the high limit switch which turn off the furnace burner. If the TH still calls for heat the furnace burner may come on even if the blower fan is still running.
If you think your furnace is cycling too much you have to adjust your TH (follow the instructions manual from the TH)

The furnace has usual 4 discharge outlets (4 x 12 sq.in = 48 sq.in) Return air is minimum 65 sq.in and recommended is 80 sq.in) (8516 and 8520) Check for pinched discharge hoses this can be a cause of overheating and trip the furnace operation in to fault code. The blower fan has its own cycle switch.

I would recommend to read the manual if you have troubles. If you don’t have one; download one from Atwood.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:33 PM   #30
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There is no adjustment on the thermostat,i know what you are talking about but not all have them.At the most they may have a switch for electric or lp.I have read the manual over a few times,it gives you all the specs for install and ducting specifications.However the way the heater is installed you cannot see control board and see the LED light that is giving you fault code.It seems that a lot of people are having this issue,maybe it could be a simple adjustment inside burner box,or improper duct work.Hopefully I will get mine squared away in 2 weeks when I go to dealer.I checked my duct work the best I can,i have 5 registers,bunk room,bathroom,2 in living room and bedroom,the air flow feels adequate however I pulled covers and did find a few spots pushed up and I found about a sandwich bag worth of insulation in ducting to.The duct work is not the same found in your house it is very flimsy
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:33 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by ALJO View Post
In short I will explain how the electronic operated Atwood furnace works.

The thermostat (TH) turned up and switch on the TH in ON position calls for heat; which in turn tells the furnace to fire up (high limit ON)
The fan will start and blows cold air. The same fan is hooked also to the combustion fan which in turn clears the burning chamber from any gasses out through the flu pipe (is called purge cycle). After approx. 60 sec. when all the electronics switches are in line it will tell the gas valve to open and ignite on the same time.

If there is air in the lines the furnace will trip and you have to reset the TH switch to of and then the above cycle will repeat. In order to speed up this process; after you turn on the LPG at the bottle (do this slow) then light first your stove burners. Turn the burners off after there is a normal flame. After this in most cases the furnace will start after the first try.

When you feel the heat coming from the registers the furnace will trip the high limit switch which turn off the furnace burner. If the TH still calls for heat the furnace burner may come on even if the blower fan is still running.
If you think your furnace is cycling too much you have to adjust your TH (follow the instructions manual from the TH)

The furnace has usual 4 discharge outlets (4 x 12 sq.in = 48 sq.in) Return air is minimum 65 sq.in and recommended is 80 sq.in) (8516 and 8520) Check for pinched discharge hoses this can be a cause of overheating and trip the furnace operation in to fault code. The blower fan has its own cycle switch.

I would recommend to read the manual if you have troubles. If you don’t have one; download one from Atwood.

That is a good discription of the operation of the furnace. And a couple of good troubleshooting tips.

The thermostat I have is a hot/cold electronic with NO delay adjustment. What you are referring to is an adjustment in mechanical thermostats that adjust the cycle time. The furnace can run longer less frequently or shorter more frequently. Helps adjust the large temp swings you get in a small under insulated trailer.

However only under the most extream temp conditions will the thermostat call a shutdown, and then recall a startup in less than 1 - 2 mins causing the burner cycle but no fan stoppage.

In the case of my furnace it is NOT the thermostat making the call. The dealership confirmed it and even replaced my stat. They agree its not getting proper airflow, they change the ducting arround and then put the grill back on crimping the duct hose in half. I am sure that I am not the only person with this problem and the others describe the exact same thing. If you have anything less than (2) 4" unobstructed ducts with NO 90 degree bends you are not getting proper air flow AS PER MANUAL! Adding a few 90s may still work but will degrade the life of your $850+ dollar furnace by years!
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Old 11-24-2014, 05:38 PM   #32
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New update... I was suppose to receive a call from the Dealership today with answers..... Days come and gone, and no call... Big shock!
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:48 PM   #33
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Furnaces in RVs are noisy gas hogs. I had a 40ft mh. A fatalistic heater does the job nicely with low gas consumption and no noise and battrey drain
They also have an auto shut off . I now have a 19 Jayco and use a small cat/ heater
On low it keeps rig comfortable at nite
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:15 PM   #34
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There may not be a duct as such, but there may be a hole cut into the metal duct work. They also rely on the radiated heat from the metal duct to help warm the underbelly.
I may be wrong about your unit, but my 338 rlts furnace does not have visable duct work per say coming off the furnace. One end of the very bottom of the unit hooks up to a plenum that can not be seen easily. This plenum provides air to the duct work under the floor for the through the floor heat through out the unit as well as the heated underbelly. My floor gets warm in the kitchen area where the furnace is blowing hot air into the heated underbelly area when the furnace is operating. I tell everyone that my top of the line TT even has heated floors.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:57 PM   #35
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So Jayco... Why did you change the design of the 23mb? My unit is 4 months old. And the brand new units have the furnace and converter in different locations. And the ducting on the furnace is correct on the one I am sitting in down at a Portland dealership??? I'm guessing you know why you changed the design less than 6months into a model year!!!! This just about takes the cake!!!!!
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:59 AM   #36
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I have attempted to detail these pictures with some notes. I finally spoke to a customer service agent at Jayco, last Wednesday. She confirmed to me that she had NO notes listed on my trailer(IE, The dealership has never called them, no authorized the first hack repair that didn't solve anything). Nor had they authorized the second attempt that i have scheduled for today- that the service technician claimed he had spoken to them about.

I could not get an immediate response as to why Jayco changed the design less than 4 months into a production year. But i think its pretty obvious!!!
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:16 PM   #37
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After seeing this I would be suspicious there may be much more shoddy workmanship in that unit you cannot see. If it were me I would push hard for a new trailer. This is NOT an inadvertent mistake. SOMEONE knew when they did it it was not right.

Can't say much for your dealer either. Obviously your dealer prefers lying to you over dealing with Jayco.

If Jayco fails to make this right I would spread these pictures far and wide.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:14 PM   #38
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That post in picture #2 that is behind the duct hose. I imagine was an after thought. It is holding up the furnace unit, the engineer that designed the cabinetry didn't resize the hole, and the guy who installed that without saying anything should be fired! But I have been in manufacturing for 10 years. I bet he did say something and was told to "shut up- toe the line and if his team didn't crank out 10 of thees rigs by end of week they weren't going to get their bonuses!"

The rest of it is just plain crap engineering! Obviously Jayco changed the design! I'm going to call them out on it! I was assured I would get a call today from someone.... It's already 2:00 east coast- not really reassuring!!
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:26 PM   #39
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There is one major flaw to this layout configuration. The cold air intake is now less than 2' from a discharge vent. Which i assume was the reason Jayco originally located the furnace under the range in my trailer. But since that ended up causing the host of problems I now have. I would assume that they compromised and moved it over under the Fridge. Both locations violate the installation and operation requirements set forth clearly in the manual from Atwood.
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:36 PM   #40
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So....... Of course No body called me back today from Jayco.
However after my 3rd call in, i was connected with a 2nd tier technician. He says he talked to the service rep at the dealership and was told I have an appointment for the 12th of December. This was news to me since I had an appointment for TODAY!!! - Anyhow other than telling me that all repairs and service "Must be preformed by a Jayco service center" - it was a total waste of time. No help! And it started to go even further south when I asked why they changed the design? He all but called me ignorant and made some comment about trailers all being different as they come off the lines. Supposedly a manager is going to call me back at some point. (Yeah Right) So back to square one!

I shortly thereafter called the other dealership in the town about 32 miles from here. It is owned by the same fella. And which up until this point I have always thought this dealership to be pretty good! Both of them. Anyhow I called looking for the owner of the company as I have talked to him before and I know he is usually at one or the other location. Not sure the position of the gentleman who answered the phone is in, but asked me to tell him what was going on. After letting me know that Mr. XXXXXXX was out of the office.

I told him every detail - and he was very sympathetic to my situation. He was going to try and get a hold of Mr. Owner. But surprisingly enough his service manager called me back... I was shocked, as this is the first time in this whole ordeal that someone called me! - Anyway he was eager to solve the problem of a broken furnace and was willing to change it out tomorrow morning for me. Encouraged by his enthusiasm I thanked him for the call and gesture, and explained the real problems to him. I now have an AM appointment with them to bring the trailer (32 miles over a mountain pass in 15 degree weather). I am not going to hold my breath but its the first real open dialog i have had thus-far that sounds like it might go somewhere.

He also has a September manufactured 23MB on the line and he was going to go take a poke around in it and see how it was assembled. But he believed it to have Furnace under fridge.
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