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Old 06-11-2013, 07:54 AM   #1
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Black Tank Replacement Guidance

Hi All,
I am preparing to replace the black holding tank on my 04 Jayflight. The original tank developed a huge crack a couple of years ago that was successfully repaired using ABS cement and fiberglass cloth.

[As a side note to anyone with a leaky tank: Do not use Eternabond tape. It will not seal for long and will be nearly impossible to clean off to do a proper repair.]

We used the camper a few times but on the last outing I was waiting for that first "burp" from the toilet to go out and empty the tank but it developed a crack on the top near the mounting flange. In accordance with Jayco's replacement parts instruction I ordered a new tank from an authorized dealer in CT.

I have a question regarding the attachment of the vent and toilet pipes to the top of the tank. Would anyone know if they are (either one or both) slip fit into a collar or glued to the tank? I have a call in to Jayco but no one has called back yet.

Other than the attachment of the top plumbing it looks to be a straightforward job. I am considering adding some additional support to the bottom of the new tank to prevent the extreme amount of flexing when there is "stuff" in the tank. I have to believe that is the main reason for the cracking.

While I am at it I am also going to re-plumb the lav sink into the shower grey tank. I figure my old Dutchmen had no black tank issue without the extra water so this one should be good, too. When I start this project I will be sure to post some pictures for future reference.

EDIT> Vicky from Jayco just called. It looks like I need to cut the vent but the 3" should pull out of a grommet. I am going to wait for the new tank to arrive before disassembling this one so I can still use the camper.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:52 AM   #2
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Ready to start my black tank replacement project. The new tank arrived quickly and I picked it up Saturday. Will be draining and rinsing the existing tank after work today. This weekend I will attempt to get the tank out and pre-fit the new one. I have a Quickie Flush on order that will be installed on the tank prior to final installation. Its arrival may delay the project until next week. In the meantime I plan to re-plumb the LAV sink to the shower gray tank. Here are a few pics.

Here is the new tank (safely inside the camper)


Will need to remove the entire drain manifold so the tank can "pivot" about the 3" inlet on top. The forward tank support flange is welded on so the tank cannot simply slide out.


Here is the 3" inlet. It is threaded into a fitting on top of the tank. It is right up against the inner wall so there is no way to slide the tank from the welded mounting flange. It looks like I can pivot the tank about this fitting but if not I will just cut it flush with the floor. I purchased a slip fit grommet and new pipe so I have the option of changing this part of the installation.


That's it for now. Hope to have more pics of the tank out this weekend.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:03 AM   #3
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Black Tank Replacement Guidance

This is a very interesting post. Thanks for posting pictures. Your old black tank looks like it has a secondary opening or flange on it. It may be the picture but I haven't seen that before. I was also surprised to hear the cross member holding the tank was welded on and not bolted. I recently installed tank rinsers and changed the plastic inlet hose to a braided washing machine hose. I wish I had used different screws to attach the rinser but thought of it too late and had to use the ones that came in the package. Good for you for taking this on. I also could have attached a better tank monitoring system while I was at it but most people claim they don't have trouble with their sensors when they use rinsers.
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:38 AM   #4
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Hi Richard, That "extra" connector was added by me when I was working on the tank to repair the crack. I needed a way to see the vent pipe because I did not know how it was installed an thought it might have been plugged or fell into the tank. It seems like this tank fills up too fast with toilet bubbling up. Quicker that our old Dutchmen with a smaller tank so I thought the vent was compromised. In any event, the vent was flush so I think the lav sink is just adding to much to the drain load on that tank. I figured I could use it as a curb side drain if I needed to by putting on a second valve on it. That's out the window now because I will not be drilling into my new tank for that. For the mounts, one side is welded and the other bolted. I'd bet the tanks are installed on the frame before the floor is installed. I'm just glad they left a way to remove it.

I drained the tank after work and rinsed it out the best I could by filling it through the toilet and draining. Even after an hour some "stuff" was still coming out. Its as clean as it's going to get so I just have the valve open to dry out the inside with a bucket in case anything drips. My new Horst Miracle Probes arrived yesterday. Not exactly cheap but I did not want to use the old ones.

Next step is to remove the toilet to see how to deal with the closet flange and 3" pipe.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:55 AM   #5
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Removed the toilet and the closet flange is glued to the pipe (not threaded) so I will be cutting the 3" pipe and will use the flexible pvc coupling to reconnect.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:20 AM   #6
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Hi Steve, a few pics of the install would be appreciated. That was a smart idea of putting a opening where you had trouble with the old tank. I came close to taping my camera to a yard stick to get a picture of the inside of our tank when I was having trouble with it. Fortunately it didn't come to that. I saw the Horst probes in a local RV store last week. I was aware of them but never saw them stocked before. Yes very expensive little guys. Good luck with the rest of your install.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:20 AM   #7
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Hi Richard,
I was able to remove the old tank Saturday and temporary install of the new tank so that the drain fitting for the valve could be glued at the correct angle. I also marked the top of the tank for the toilet and vent fittings. I decided to use rubber grommets instead of gluing the supplied fittings to the tank. The old tank had quite a bit of "stuff" remaining even after rinsing it out. It was quite heavy so I used a jack and a real short step ladder to support it so it wouldn't crash down and make a huge mess. Once that tank was out of the way fitting the new one was easy as it is very light to handle. Here are some pics. Unfortunately I can only post a few at a time.

Drain pipe manifold


Supporting the old tank


Old tank and new tank. They are exactly the same size. The picture makes the new one look smaller.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:24 AM   #8
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Here are the Horst Miracle Probes installed. Disregard my finger.


Still waiting for the Camco Quicky Flush to arrive so I can install it into the tank before re-mounting it into the camper. The remaining parts should be in today. I also have all the plumbing needed to re-direct the LAV sink into the shower gray tank.
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:24 AM   #9
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Looks good Steve. I bet you saved a good chunk of money by doing it yourself. Btw if you want a interesting read there is a guy on the Forest River forum who bought a used FEMA trailer and gutted the inside and rebuilt the interior from scratch. He is a systems administrator who had some prior experience rebuilding a pop up. It's in the mod section of the forum. He links to his FB page and shows many pictures of the rebuild and notes his plans on the bottom of the pictures. Great way to kill an hour.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:46 AM   #10
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I have just under $500 into the project with $130 being sipping for the tank. I will check out that website. I see you're in BC, anywhere near Kitsault?

The project is nearing completion. Monday, the parts I ordered were in so I installed the Quickie Flush and got the tank bolted back in. Yesterday I reconnected the level wires to the new Miracle Probes and reconnected the 3" toilet pipe and 1-1/2" vent pipe. Pictures to follow. Just too beat after crawling in and out of the basement hatch. Today I plan to install a new ball seal in the Sealand 210 toilet and reinstall it. After that I need to drill and tap a couple of holes in the frame to mount the Quickie Flush inlet hose. And finally I will tackle re-routing the LAV sink to the shower gray tank.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:47 AM   #11
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I have under $500 into the project with $130 being shipping for the tank. I will check out that website. I see you're in BC, anywhere near Kitsault?

The project is nearing completion. Monday, the parts I ordered were in so I installed the Quickie Flush and got the tank bolted back in. Yesterday I reconnected the level wires to the new Miracle Probes and reconnected the 3" toilet pipe and 1-1/2" vent pipe. Pictures to follow. Just too beat after crawling in and out of the basement hatch. Today I plan to install a new ball seal in the Sealand 210 toilet and reinstall it. After that I need to drill and tap a couple of holes in the frame to mount the Quickie Flush inlet hose. And finally I will tackle re-routing the LAV sink to the shower gray tank.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:48 AM   #12
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JOB COMPLETE! Finished up Saturday, re-routing the Lav sink to the shower grey tank. Easy job but the basement is 17" high and the heat duct made it "interesting" when it came time to maneuver in there. Backed filled the new tank with well water using my Flush King to check for any leaks in the drain piping. It passed! One thing I noticed is that this new tank has more ribs on the bottom than the original one. It does not sag nearly as much with liquid in it. Anyway, here are a few more photos.

New sink pipe to grey tank:


Looking from the road side access door the capped (old) pipe can be seen as well as the toilet pipe with flex coupling:


Quickie Flush installed. Much easier to do before installing the tank (obviously not the usual option)


Quickie Flush water connection. Used #8 x 1/2" stainless steel sheet metal screws to fasten:
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:16 AM   #13
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Hi Steve, thanks for the update and more pictures. I have never been to Kitsault. At first I thought it was the small community where they were selling homes on the Internet for 10-20 grand a few years back. Did you live there when they had the molybdenum mine there? I've been to Terrace several times and spent time in Kitamat and the Queen Charlotte islands. Salmon fishing in Douglas inlet and seeing the nature in that part of our province is something I'll never forget.
Good clean looking install. It's amazing how much time it takes to do this stuff. I just installed a fantastic fan in our bedroom. Now I'm nursing a sunburn on my back. I wasn't on the roof for that long but man was it hot. Take care
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:18 PM   #14
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I work for the man that owns Kitsalt. Havent been there yet. I put a FF in my old truck camper. Then when I got my first 5er Dutchmen 22' I swapped it with the bathroom fan. I
t was a great fan but I left it when I got my Jayco. The Northern Breeze in the bathroom is very similar but had one speed. I purchased a variable speed upgrade kit and now it is as useful as the FF.
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Old 08-13-2020, 12:50 PM   #15
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Black Tank dropped to the Ground

While filling my black tank with the Quickie Flush the tank broke loose on one end and hit the ground. Yikes! I'm glad that it was the 4th rinse. The tank was still hanging on by the toilet connection and about half full of water. I had to drill a hole on the low end to drain it then cut the pipe and toilet connection away to drop the tank.
I have ordered a new tank that should arrive in 4 to 6 weeks and plan to replace it myself. Can anybody offer suggestions for reconnecting the vent pipe in the center of the trailer or the toilet?

Thank you,
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:46 AM   #16
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Black Tank dropped to the Ground

I am so disappointed in Jayco for the first time. I called them and spent several hours on the phone over several days trying to figure out what I needed to get our trailer back on the road. Basically, they sent pdf'd schematics with part numbers and said that's all they can do.
I had hoped that I could talk to somebody on the assembly floor who could tell me how they magically attach the vent pipe in the center of the tank. The nice lady on the phone said that they don't do that and that I would have to go to my Jayco dealer. The dealer wants $150/hour estimating it to be a 10 hour job. Yikes! I guess I'll have to rig this myself.
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Old 11-08-2020, 04:18 PM   #17
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Steve, or anybody that has knowledge - I am redoing the outlets of both tanks because of a winter mishap where the buildup of ice/snow ripped everything from them. I'm having a hard with finding parts, mostly because I don't know what to buy.
The outlet on the tanks are 3.75" OD and 3.25" ID. Everything I am finding is 3.25" OD / 3" ID. Do these reducers actually slide into the tank and get sealed with something and a clamp on the outside?
Maybe I'm thinking into it to much because I would think it could hind the waste from coming out of the tank by causing a lip on the inside.

Any help than can be provided would be appreciated!!!
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