brake problem on new 26BH

[Iraqvet05]

The past few times I've towed my new Jayco 26BH, the trailer brakes locked up. I'm towing with a Silverado with a P3 controller.

The day I picked up the trailer, I set the controller voltage to slow the truck using the brake manual control, per the instructions and everything seemed fine. The trailer sat for a few weeks and when I towed it again, the brakes locked up like there was rust in the drums. The brakes stopped locking up after driving about 1/4 mile and applying them several times but the next day they did it again. Any suggestions?

[clubhouse]

My P2 directions say to manually apply the trailer brakes on dry level road at 25mph to warm up the brakes and make sure they are seated properly. I generally pull the lever till I first feel the trailer brakes catching and hold it there for a couple hundred feet. Then I release it, drive another couple hundred feet and fully apply the brakes manually to make sure they don't lock up. Typically accomish this before I even get out of my neighborhood on our way out of town.

[Iraqvet05]

The P3 instructions are similar and I did the initial set up. The brakes don't lock once they have been "warmed up" but almost instantly lock when I first hook up and drive that initial 1/4 mile or so. I'm not sure if the problem is with the P3 or the trailer brakes.

[RVhiker]

My brakes are kind of grabby when first driving my trailer after a week or two of not using it; I apply the brakes slightly with the manual lever at a slow speed for a few seconds and then the grabbiness is gone.

[Recondite]

With the P3 do you have the boost mode on? If so that'll cause what you're describing. Turn off boost until the brakes are warmed up.

[Iraqvet05]

Recondite, you were on the right track! The problem is only present with the boost feature on, but doesn’t go away when the brakes are warm. I noticed when I lightly brake, the output reading will shoot to about 6 then drop to zero and jump up again…definitely not a linear or gradual increase in the output. I mounted the controller to the ash tray door to see it better. I may move the controller under the dash to a more solid mounting location and see what happens before ruling out a bad accelerometer.

[RVhiker]

Actually, the boost feature may be doing exactly what it is supposed to do, which is to increase the voltage more quickly as the brakes are applied. I believe this feature is mainly for use with heavy trailers. Is it possible that you should just not use the boost feature? That's what I have to do with my 8500 pound fifth wheel, or the brakes grab too much at first;without boost the brakes apply evenly. Also, as I'm sure you are aware, the boost feature has different settings for how much boost is applied.

[Iraqvet05]

You maybe correct, RV hiker, maybe I don't need to use the boost feature....anyone else have any input on this? If my TT weight is about equal to my TV, perhaps I shoud leave the boost off. The manual says the B2 setting starts out with a 25% output and increases with deceleration...not sure why mine is jumping all over.

[exjay1]

yea, nix the boost feature unless you really need it. Ours is grabby at first and like the others stated just use the manual slide to activate the brakes some in the neighborhood to get things settled in place. We have a P2 controller but every now and then have to adj the voltage on the adjuster wheel if it seems to be too much when driving around under normal tow conditions.

[Recondite]

Glad to hear you found out Iraqvet. I don't use Prodigy any more, my ford doesn't need it, but mine had boost 3 levels if I recall correctly. If its flat and level and you have lighter trailer you may not need the boost at all as others have said. It'll also make a big difference if the brakes are cold or hot. Definitely no boost on cold brakes. As they got warmed up I'd go to B1. In the mountains go up to B2 or B3 if needed as it really seemed to help there. Also if you find they're still grabbing back off a little on your starting voltage.