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Old 08-08-2016, 02:18 PM   #11
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Just some little tips on 'priming' the pump:


- Start with a full fresh water tank (the pump has to pull less air) [sanitizing solution]
- Open a cold water tap before switching on the pump
- Listen. You will hear the pump load up with water within 3 or 4 seconds. If not, turn off and check the winterizing valves.
- Then purge the air from the rest of the water system.
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:03 PM   #12
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Is there somewhere on this board where someone has posted a schematic of a typical RV water line system?

Thanks
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:09 PM   #13
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Is there somewhere on this board where someone has posted a schematic of a typical RV water line system?

Thanks
I found this one:
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:51 PM   #14
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I found this one:
I've always been curious; where do the water system "low point drains" fit into this diagram?
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:18 AM   #15
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I've always been curious; where do the water system "low point drains" fit into this diagram?


The low points would typically be "down stream" of the pump and city water interface. Said another way, somewhere on the pressure side of the pump, and after the city water inlet ties into the overall system.




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Old 08-12-2016, 11:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
I've always been curious; where do the water system "low point drains" fit into this diagram?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbailey View Post
The low points would typically be "down stream" of the pump and city water interface. Said another way, somewhere on the pressure side of the pump, and after the city water inlet ties into the overall system.
There would be 3. A) Cold water line (as described by ctbailey) B) Hot water line (usually near the cold water one) and C the fresh water tank. They have to be physically located where gravity would draw as much water from the pipe/tank as possible.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:43 AM   #17
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There would be 3. A) Cold water line (as described by ctbailey) B) Hot water line (usually near the cold water one) and C the fresh water tank. They have to be physically located where gravity would draw as much water from the pipe/tank as possible.
So, I'm thinking in the diagram, they would look just like another faucet. Just physically lowest in the system.

I've also wondered how effective the pressurized low point drains are at removing water from the entire system. I've left mine open until they don't drip any more, and still been able to use air to blow what seems like a lot of water out of the pipes...

Not worried about the fresh tank drains as they are not in the pressurized part of the system.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:59 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
So, I'm thinking in the diagram, they would look just like another faucet. Just physically lowest in the system.

I've also wondered how effective the pressurized low point drains are at removing water from the entire system. I've left mine open until they don't drip any more, and still been able to use air to blow what seems like a lot of water out of the pipes...

Not worried about the fresh tank drains as they are not in the pressurized part of the system.
Does it get below freezing where the trailer is stored?

If not, the low point drains are almost pointless.

Up Here, where the risk of below freezing temps runs from mid-October to late April, low-point drains, pressurized air and RV antifreeze prevent costly damage.

All 3 storage tanks (Fresh, Grey and Black) will be damaged from the expansion of ice. They have to be winterized as well.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:12 AM   #19
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Does it get below freezing where the trailer is stored?

If not, the low point drains are almost pointless.

Up Here, where the risk of below freezing temps runs from mid-October to late April, low-point drains, pressurized air and RV antifreeze prevent costly damage.

All 3 storage tanks (Fresh, Grey and Black) will be damaged from the expansion of ice. They have to be winterized as well.
It does get below freezing a few days each year here. As a matter of practice, we take our rig out for the "last" time of the season in February-ish. Our camping season is based more on workload than weather; we could camp all year if not for work. So I will typically winterize the trailer after our last trip in February. Yes, to protect it from freezing, but also to prep it for longer-term storage.

As for winterizing, I drain all the fresh water (all tanks), run the pump dry, then blow out the system with pressurized air. I include the pressurized LP drains in my compressed air process. But when I drain the trailer at the beginning I use the pressurized LP drains as well. And I still end up getting what I would consider "a lot" of water from the lines when I hook up the air.

So, I would agree that the LP drains might not be terribly useful.

I also add AF to the drains for the P-traps and the gray tank and some in the black tank as well to protect the knife valves. I don't typically add AF to the water lines after I blow them dry.
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:25 AM   #20
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As for winterizing, I drain all the fresh water (all tanks), run the pump dry, then blow out the system with pressurized air. I include the pressurized LP drains in my compressed air process.
Hey Camper Bob, where do you blow out the system with air hose? What input do you connect the air hose to?
Thanks
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