Water Pump?

jerdog · 08-01-2016, 04:09 PM

So we go for a 6 day boondocking trip to discover on the very first day that we have no water pressure. Can hear the pump running (very quietly, not like normal) and we have no water pressure whatsoever.

Anyone care to take a stab at diagnosis?

I plan on taking the tank out and checking all the lines soon.

Did a test the week before leaving and everything worked perfectly (of course).

RVhiker · 08-01-2016, 04:23 PM

Valve to water suction line closed?
Tank empty?

jerdog · 08-01-2016, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVhiker

Valve to water suction line closed?
Tank empty?

Tank was full. Like I said it worked perfectly the week before, nothing changed so I suspect the water pump.

RVhiker · 08-01-2016, 04:32 PM

If your trailer has a way to winterize your lines with antifreeze, you could put the antifreeze line in a gallon jug of water, close the tank suction line and open the antifreeze line and see if the pump will suck water from the jug. If the pump works well, then there is something wrong with the tank or the suction line. For example, it is possible that although the water tank is full, the suction line is not down in the water, or it has come loose somehow from the tank. Also your water pump screen filter could be clogged or leaking air.

Of course, your pump could be bad and be the cause of the problem.

JKDheart · 08-02-2016, 09:15 AM

When receiving my 2014 Greyhawk from dealer I was told that my tanks were dry and that was why my pump would not work. Upon arrival at home and filling tanks the pump would not work. I discovered that the screen filter see thru plastic cap was broken and laying on the floor. The pump was just sucking air. You might want to check yours.

Camper_bob · 08-02-2016, 09:23 AM

My pump was doing that a while back. I double checked all the valves were closed (so it wasn't sucking air) and no change. I took off the in-line screen filter and cleaned what little debris was in there, and it worked.

Now, I don't know for sure if it was the debris in that screen that was causing my problem. It seemed kind of doubtful at the time because there really wasn't much in there, at least not enough to stop flow in my estimation. But it has worked fine ever since then.

I originally began diagnosing the problem with the supposition that the pump couldn't pull enough water to get "primed", but after I dumped water INTO the winterization hose, that theory was bunked.

So, bottom line, since you are going to be checking those fittings down there anyway, take that screen out and give it a good cleaning; it might just solve your problem.

jerdog · 08-08-2016, 09:44 AM

Okay, after checking everything out on Saturday I realized I was the problem.
Since the pump WAS running, I should have let it run longer to fill and pressurize the lines but was reluctant to do so for fear of running the battery low (another dumb mistake since I could've used the generator). I did remove the tank and back flush it , reinstalled it and filled the lines up. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the hose that looks like a breather that leads to an opening by the fresh water filler. It has a valve that when open (which I thought it was in the past) would cause air to enter the lines. Once I closed it off, it all seemed to work. Live and learn. I am exteremely grateful to everyone on this board that has offered help.

tjpolsin · 08-08-2016, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

My pump was doing that a while back. I double checked all the valves were closed (so it wasn't sucking air) and no change. I took off the in-line screen filter and cleaned what little debris was in there, and it worked.

Now, I don't know for sure if it was the debris in that screen that was causing my problem. It seemed kind of doubtful at the time because there really wasn't much in there, at least not enough to stop flow in my estimation. But it has worked fine ever since then.

I originally began diagnosing the problem with the supposition that the pump couldn't pull enough water to get "primed", but after I dumped water INTO the winterization hose, that theory was bunked.

So, bottom line, since you are going to be checking those fittings down there anyway, take that screen out and give it a good cleaning; it might just solve your problem.

X2. couldn't get suction, disassembled/cleaned the pump. couldn't get suction back until I took that screen off and cleaned it. And it wasn't dirty to begin with.

jerdog · 08-08-2016, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjpolsin

X2. couldn't get suction, disassembled/cleaned the pump. couldn't get suction back until I took that screen off and cleaned it. And it wasn't dirty to begin with.

On my tank the filter and all fitting bosses are glued/welded in place. It wasn't possible to take the screen out and clean it. That's why I back flushed it and got some sediment and plastic shavings out of the tank.

It seems to be working OK now.

Camper_bob · 08-08-2016, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjpolsin

X2. couldn't get suction, disassembled/cleaned the pump. couldn't get suction back until I took that screen off and cleaned it. And it wasn't dirty to begin with.

I think it may have been construction debris? It seemed like it could have been shavings from when holes were cut in the tank for the plumbing. Whatever it was, it was a TINY amount of debris to have caused such trouble. Now cleaning that screen is on my annual maintenance schedule, around the same time I sanitize the system.

Glad OP got his issue resolved!

mike837go · 08-08-2016, 01:18 PM

Just some little tips on 'priming' the pump:

- Start with a full fresh water tank (the pump has to pull less air) [sanitizing solution]
- Open a cold water tap before switching on the pump
- Listen. You will hear the pump load up with water within 3 or 4 seconds. If not, turn off and check the winterizing valves.
- Then purge the air from the rest of the water system.

jerdog · 08-08-2016, 02:03 PM

Is there somewhere on this board where someone has posted a schematic of a typical RV water line system?

Thanks

mike837go · 08-08-2016, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerdog

Is there somewhere on this board where someone has posted a schematic of a typical RV water line system?

Thanks

I found this one:

Camper_bob · 08-08-2016, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike837go

I found this one:

I've always been curious; where do the water system "low point drains" fit into this diagram?

ctbailey · 08-12-2016, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

I've always been curious; where do the water system "low point drains" fit into this diagram?

The low points would typically be "down stream" of the pump and city water interface. Said another way, somewhere on the pressure side of the pump, and after the city water inlet ties into the overall system.

Craig Bailey
New England
2007 Chevy 2500HD crew
2015 Jayco Jayflight 32BHDS

mike837go · 08-12-2016, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

I've always been curious; where do the water system "low point drains" fit into this diagram?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctbailey

The low points would typically be "down stream" of the pump and city water interface. Said another way, somewhere on the pressure side of the pump, and after the city water inlet ties into the overall system.

There would be 3. A) Cold water line (as described by ctbailey) B) Hot water line (usually near the cold water one) and C the fresh water tank. They have to be physically located where gravity would draw as much water from the pipe/tank as possible.

Camper_bob · 08-12-2016, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike837go

There would be 3. A) Cold water line (as described by ctbailey) B) Hot water line (usually near the cold water one) and C the fresh water tank. They have to be physically located where gravity would draw as much water from the pipe/tank as possible.

So, I'm thinking in the diagram, they would look just like another faucet. Just physically lowest in the system.

I've also wondered how effective the pressurized low point drains are at removing water from the entire system. I've left mine open until they don't drip any more, and still been able to use air to blow what seems like a lot of water out of the pipes...

Not worried about the fresh tank drains as they are not in the pressurized part of the system.

mike837go · 08-12-2016, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

So, I'm thinking in the diagram, they would look just like another faucet. Just physically lowest in the system.

I've also wondered how effective the pressurized low point drains are at removing water from the entire system. I've left mine open until they don't drip any more, and still been able to use air to blow what seems like a lot of water out of the pipes...

Not worried about the fresh tank drains as they are not in the pressurized part of the system.

Does it get below freezing where the trailer is stored?

If not, the low point drains are almost pointless.

Up Here, where the risk of below freezing temps runs from mid-October to late April, low-point drains, pressurized air and RV antifreeze prevent costly damage.

All 3 storage tanks (Fresh, Grey and Black) will be damaged from the expansion of ice. They have to be winterized as well.

Camper_bob · 08-15-2016, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike837go

Does it get below freezing where the trailer is stored?

If not, the low point drains are almost pointless.

Up Here, where the risk of below freezing temps runs from mid-October to late April, low-point drains, pressurized air and RV antifreeze prevent costly damage.

All 3 storage tanks (Fresh, Grey and Black) will be damaged from the expansion of ice. They have to be winterized as well.

It does get below freezing a few days each year here. As a matter of practice, we take our rig out for the "last" time of the season in February-ish. Our camping season is based more on workload than weather; we could camp all year if not for work. So I will typically winterize the trailer after our last trip in February. Yes, to protect it from freezing, but also to prep it for longer-term storage.

As for winterizing, I drain all the fresh water (all tanks), run the pump dry, then blow out the system with pressurized air. I include the pressurized LP drains in my compressed air process. But when I drain the trailer at the beginning I use the pressurized LP drains as well. And I still end up getting what I would consider "a lot" of water from the lines when I hook up the air.

So, I would agree that the LP drains might not be terribly useful.

I also add AF to the drains for the P-traps and the gray tank and some in the black tank as well to protect the knife valves. I don't typically add AF to the water lines after I blow them dry.

wanderlust · 08-18-2016, 04:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

As for winterizing, I drain all the fresh water (all tanks), run the pump dry, then blow out the system with pressurized air. I include the pressurized LP drains in my compressed air process.

Hey Camper Bob, where do you blow out the system with air hose? What input do you connect the air hose to?
Thanks

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