Batteries

[petersrc2]

HELLO
Re: 2017 Jayco Melbourne 24K
Has anyone found/seen the "Isolator Relay/Solenoid" installed between the motorhome's Coach and Starting Batteries.
I've asked both the Dealer and Jayco Factory Service Department for its EXACT location (pictures would be helpful), and received only general responses saying it should be in the engine compartment. If it is, I can't find/see it. I see only the remote contact terminal for jumping the starting battery which is located beneath the floorboards.
If there is a relay/solenoid, is it possibly "integrated" with the starting battery BOOST button installed beneath the dashboard?
The reason for this search is to install a TRIK-L-START charger which draws/transfers up to 5 amps from the Coach Battery if/when needed maintain the Starting Battery's charge. Only the Coach battery is charged when the motorhome is connected to shore power.
I'd appreciate any helpful information you can offer.
Rudy

[Jaycomelbourneng]

On my 24L there is a button @right knee under ip/dash to start when coach battery is not strong enough to start. We parked in November (Sprinter 3500) in November. January 2 had a new Mercedes-Benz battery installed. Checked today, totally dead . I found out that the key will not even turn in the cylinder in that condition. Would love help on this also!

[petersrc2]

HI Jacomelbourneng
Your experience duplicates mine --------
So far, I have determined that there must be some draw on starting battery, and that the Starting Battery is NOT being charged by shore power. Only the Coach battery is.
In my case, I was able to start the Genset, which in turn charged the Starting battery sufficiently to get the engine started.
This arrangement/procedure is not an acceptable solution for SNOWBIRDS leaving the Motorhome in storage for longer periods. So -------- I have now obtained a TRIK-L-START and am still searching for the Isolator location, so I can connect it when we return home.
From current google readings, the isolator/relay/solenoid may be in the starting battery bay beneath the floor (yet to be confirmed).
You might benefit in obtaining a TRIK-L-START too??l -------- once installed, it's supposed to keep the starting battery "topped up".
Good Luck
Rudy

[pamanc]

We have a 2016 Melbourne 24K. Same issue with chassis battery. Completely dead after several days and more than once. Thank goodness we have room to park it at the house. Dealer checked the battery and found it was good. So we now have a trickle charger (Battery Tender) connected all the time. Husband installed a "pig tail" at the battery (under the floor boards in the driver seat area). Hopefully when we are traveling it will charge itself after several hours of engine running and we won't have to rely on the Battery Tender. We have the rig plugged into a 30 amp receptacle at home and plug the battery tender into an outlet in the cabin. Good luck, and wish us luck too!

[Mike and Rose]

Same problem on my 2008 Greyhawk 31SS. Finally traded it in and I never resolved the issue.

[Jaycomelbourneng]

Is the trick-l- start a brand name? I have 2 extra battery tenders (1 a 3 amp) and they will not do the job.

[petersrc2]

Yes, "Jay", TRIK-L-START is a brand name.

Here's where I purchased it:https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Ultra...-p/tls-oem.htm

and, here's one of the JaycoForum links referencing it. There were others, too.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5...rne-42254.html

I have not yet installed it, but it sounds promising.
Rudy

[pamanc]

The brand we are using is Battety Tender. It would not charge the chassis battery when my husband initially hooked it up to the contact post under the hood. Apparently you can jump your chassis battery using this post but it won't trickle charge from that contact post. He had to attach the "pig tail" that comes with the Battery Tender so it's like a direct connect to the actual battery post.

[Pfflyer]

The isolation relay is in the house battery compartment above the battery. At least that is what it looks like to me. The cause of the starter battery going dead is the radio, power step, co2 detector and maybe the stabilizers among other things are all powered with the house battery turned off. At least there must be some sort of drain with the stabilizers and step because they will retract with the house battery off. My solution is a 5amp Battery Tender with a 12v plug, plugged into the 12V outlet below the ash tray. That outlet is powered by the starter and is always hot even with the key out. When plugged into shore power the battery tender is plugged in under the dinette and it keeps the starter maintained. I was told that the smaller 2 or 3 amp Battery Tender would not be enough. So far after a couple weeks the starter and the house are full. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Before that I had a 2 bank battery charger connected to both batteries from the outside. It worked but wasn't as neat as having the charger inside and all I have to do is unplug at the 12v outlet and shore power and I am off.

[Pfflyer]

Originally Posted by pamanc

The brand we are using is Battety Tender. It would not charge the chassis battery when my husband initially hooked it up to the contact post under the hood. Apparently you can jump your chassis battery using this post but it won't trickle charge from that contact post. He had to attach the "pig tail" that comes with the Battery Tender so it's like a direct connect to the actual battery post.

I initially hooked a charger to the posts under the hood and it worked for me. The red plastic covering the positive post is spring loaded and it will spring back and mess up the connection if you don't have the lead connected good. It was a little fiddly to twist the red cover and push it back to connect the clamp but after you do it a few times it wasn't an issue.

[petersrc2]

Originally Posted by Pfflyer

I initially hooked a charger to the posts under the hood and it worked for me. The red plastic covering the positive post is spring loaded and it will spring back and mess up the connection if you don't have the lead connected good. It was a little fiddly to twist the red cover and push it back to connect the clamp but after you do it a few times it wasn't an issue.

I agree, PF
I have used the spring-loaded red "booster" post, under the hood, with a smart charger too.
It worked, but when I read about the "One Time Installation" of the Trik-L-Start
I went for it. Hope it works as described when I install it when we return home.
Rudy

[pconroy]

There's no electric at our storage facility. Has anyone had any success with the smaller solar chargers keeping the battery topped off?

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by pconroy

There's no electric at our storage facility. Has anyone had any success with the smaller solar chargers keeping the battery topped off?

If you go with a small SOLAR panel ( 50watts or less) you need to make sure that the panel voltage is 17VDC or greater. It takes 17 volts to properly keep a battery topped off (13.2VDC). Also, you need to make sure that the system you purchase has a SOLAR charge controller, or you will risk overcharging your battery(s). The SOLAR charge controller also insures that the SOLAR panel will not drain your battery after the sun sets.

The draw back for these small SOLAR systems is that they can only be used on FULLY charged batteries, they are not for charging batteries that are not fully charged. Secondly, they may be rated at 1 or 2 amps. TRUE, but that is only when they are in direct sun light between maybe 11 am and 2 pm, as the sun angle increases the SOLAR panel output decreases to a few mA. Cloudy, partly cloudy or rainy days, and you can have a few in a row, the output will be next to nothing.

If this is only going to be used for keeping your batteries topped off, and your RV may not be in the sun 100% of the time, I would recommend installing a 100 watt SOLAR system on the roof. You install it and forget about it. Shade or sun you will keep your batteries topped off.

Renogy has a GREAT 100 watt system, and in the long run it will be cheaper than replacing batteries. If you decide to start dry-camping in the future, you can add to this system.

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[pconroy]

Thank you - I did some more reading on these things last night and it looks like the 5, 8 or 10 watt panels are just silly expenses. They don't do much.

A 'real' solar system is on the to-do list.
Thank you!

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

Renogy has a GREAT 100 watt system, and in the long run it will be cheaper than replacing batteries. If you decide to start dry-camping in the future, you can add to this system.

Don

Don - what's your current recommendation / suggestion for a 260 watt panel and MPPT controller? Rather that buy the 100 watt, I'm thinking "cry once". I should invest in a system that can grow with our needs.

There's gobs of real-estate on the 31FK roof.

Thanks!
patrick

[pamanc]

Originally Posted by Pfflyer

The isolation relay is in the house battery compartment above the battery. At least that is what it looks like to me. The cause of the starter battery going dead is the radio, power step, co2 detector and maybe the stabilizers among other things are all powered with the house battery turned off. At least there must be some sort of drain with the stabilizers and step because they will retract with the house battery off. My solution is a 5amp Battery Tender with a 12v plug, plugged into the 12V outlet below the ash tray. That outlet is powered by the starter and is always hot even with the key out. When plugged into shore power the battery tender is plugged in under the dinette and it keeps the starter maintained. I was told that the smaller 2 or 3 amp Battery Tender would not be enough. So far after a couple weeks the starter and the house are full. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Before that I had a 2 bank battery charger connected to both batteries from the outside. It worked but wasn't as neat as having the charger inside and all I have to do is unplug at the 12v outlet and shore power and I am off.

Hi again, after reading your post I checked the amperage of our Battery Tender. Unfortunate it is a 2 amp.... but lucky for us it is doing the job. It's hard when one is totally new to something and rely on "experts" ( RV service department) to recommend a purchase. I love these forums. Thanks!


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[Pfflyer]

Originally Posted by pamanc

Hi again, after reading your post I checked the amperage of our Battery Tender. Unfortunate it is a 2 amp.... but lucky for us it is doing the job. It's hard when one is totally new to something and rely on "experts" ( RV service department) to recommend a purchase. I love these forums. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I bought the smaller 2 amp but never used it. The packaging didn't have a picture of a RV but just lawn mower, motorcycle and car. I e-mailed the manufacturer and told them my application and they recommended the larger 5 amp model. I thought 2 amp would be enough but sent it back and bought the bigger one. I think I was up-sold.

[pamanc]

House battery on 2016 Jayco Melbourne... finishing up our 6 week trek to Alaska and Canada. House battery is fully charged after driving 4-5 hours during the day. When plugged in to shore power at night the house battery discharges to 1/3. We have only dry camped a couple nights over the past 6 weeks. Also have a surge protector/ monitor we use. Any ideas why the house battery doesn't charge while on shore power?


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